hellgrunt5643

hellgrunt5643

jakey poo

Really hard to tell without pictures, also you don't list mileages. 3.0 provides a great base for a 3.4 swap

hellgrunt5643

jakey poo

Looks like there's damage to the rear of the 1st one which I personally think is overpriced.


If it were me my first choice would be option 2

hellgrunt5643

10-4, thanks for the input. I agree that #1 is pretty overpriced. How much would you consider paying for something around that? I think that one has the hooks in me deep....

jakey poo

I'm on the other coast so prices are probably a bit lower over here due to so many not having rust issues. I wouldn't probably even go $6k if it were over here (not a lot of people want a 3.0) Find a shipping company and I'll ship you mine for $5k

hellgrunt5643

Yeah, options here that are solid in the body and frame are real rare, unfortunately. I WISH! I saw plenty out your way that were spotless for good prices! I just really dont want to have to deal with frame/body repair as much as possible, and bonus on the ease of the 3.4 swap. Speaking of, on the research i did into that, is it always necessaryto put a hood scoop on for clearance of the motor? Not sure if i like the looks...

Kolton5543

On my side of the country toyotas are good for like 5k tops for something almost immaculate. The prices for all 3 of the options you listed I feel are way above what they oughta be. You could lower your budget and go on a cool road trip. Find you something just as nice, see some of the country and still spend less than option one. As for your engine options. If your stuck on a 1st gen runner find you a good 3.0. I don't care what anybody says, the 3vz makes more power stock than a 22re and is just as reliable. I see more head gasket issues on the 22re than on the 3vz. The 3vz gets its bad rap from the fact that it was recalled. Because of that everybody and their goat knows about it and is now the first thing to be mentioned when the 3.0 gets brought up in discussion. The only thing I think the 22re has going for it is a better aftermarket. The problem with that though is after spending a grip of time and money to build a high output 22re you'll be making barely more than a stock 3.0 and still a be way underpowered for the vehicle its in. Especially if you ever go larger tires. The 3.0 benefit is cost, and as stated before sets you up for a future 3.4 swap. Gauranteed a supercharged 3.4 will provide you with enough reliablility and power to comfortably push a fat runner through anything needed. Plus, with carfull planning and shopping a 3.4 swap can be done cheaply. I completed mine right around the 1k mark. Trust me, 3.0 is the way to go for a starting platform.

old87yota

Prices for older Toyota's are VERY regional. Some areas, even the cleanest 4Runners of this vintage are only going for a few grand, while in other areas, clean 4Runner prices skyrocket.

I do not understand why the majority of people hate the 3VZ-E. I do understand the recall, that the fuel mileage is not so great, and it has had its head gasket problems, but 22R-E has a few head gasket issues of its own too. The 5VZ-FE was basically an improved version of the 3VZ-E.

I actually see more 3VZ-E trucks on the road than I see 22R-E trucks (possibly because the average age of 3VZ-E is newer?) and can be quite reliable.

The 1991 Xtra Cab 3VZ-E 5-Speed 4WD truck my dad owned when I was a kid is what got me interested into these trucks to begin with.

One thing I like about the 22R-E over the 3VZ-E is the 22R-E is simpler and takes up quite a bit less room in the engine bay, making maintenance and repairs easier.

Like I have said in other threads, in the end, it all depends on what YOU want from your vehicle and what YOU prefer.

Kolton5543

Old87 pretty much nailed it. Definately right with engine bay space thing but for whatever reason a 3.4 swap sure does free up space.

hellgrunt5643

jakey poo

I think the easiest way to avoid that is a body lift.

Kolton5543

For the engine clearance issue it depends on vehicle and preference. Most will say you'll need to cut the hood or run a minimum of 2" body lift. I've also heard 1/2" will be enough. On my swap I trimmed the throttle cable bracket and it fit tight but fit. However, my motor mount perches also didn't fit as well as everybody says they do. I'm not sure why. Mine are stamped steel perches while most 3.0 perches, to my understanding, are cast iron. So I don't know if mine are aftermarket or came with some unusual option. Its something that surely if you shop around and play with a little bit you can get it to fit without lift or cutting a hole.

hellgrunt5643

I appreciate all the info gents. I have decided to get the 1988 3.0, going up Monday to pick it up. I'll be sure to start a build thread "in the appropriate section" once I get it and start working on it. This is slightly off topic but I haven't been able to find any solid info on it.What about safety concerns with the 80's and early 90's 4runner? Mainly because this is intended to be a family excursion/camping vehicle. I already intend to install rear 3 -point seat belts. I have my own beliefs about our risk aversion society, driver awareness, accident avoidance and all but wanted to hear from you guys. What do you honestly think about the safety of these vehicles, especially in regards to a family trip/excursion/camping vehicle?

128keaton

Considering these trucks didn't have side protection bars, front ABS, or proper roof rollover support until the late 2nd gens, I'd say they are pretty unsafe. My father hauled our family around in his early 2nd gen (93, only rear abs, no side guards, but had roof rollover support) for 15 years.

hellgrunt5643

jakey poo

Buy new lol

hellgrunt5643

old87yota

These trucks had safety features such as "brakes", "steering wheels", and "seat belts".

No airbags.

Basically, just don't crash!

The best thing to do when you pick up your 4Runner is to inspect all of the suspension, steering, brake components, and seat belts. It would also be a good idea to check all of the lights to make sure they work as well as checking your tire pressure and wiper blades. Replace anything that is not in good working order. Even though the 4Runner you are picking up is really clean, it still is a 30 year-old truck.

Also, since a 1988 4Runner does not drive itself like new cars, YOU are in control. Drive it like the vehicle it is.

Driving safely can go a looong way.

As for aftermarket safety features, I have not really ventured out to see what is available. I do have one of those small convex mirrors that stick onto your rear view mirrors to help eliminate blind spots. I have mine attached to the driver's side rear view mirror and has eliminated my blind spot.

You could add a backup camera if you feel there is too big of a blind spot behind you.