1988 4Runner 3.0 v6

I was under the hood yesterday checking everything and here is what I have found...

First up is a wire that I cannot figure out where it plugs into:

This is on the right side of the engine.





Next up, I have been having problems with my heat not working. My heat use to be perfect! Now it only works above a certain RPM (+/- 2000). Awhile I pulled into my work's parking lot and steam started pouring from the engine. It turned out to be a hard line, a big upside down U shape, on the back of my engine that cracked and was spewing coolant everywhere. I had it replaced but they did not use a hard line, they used regular hose and it is kinked as you can see in the pics below. Does anyone know what this hose is? It makes sense to me that because it is kinked, that is why my heat only works above a certain RPM because it forces the coolant through with more pressure. This make sense to anyone?







Last up, I will let the picture do the explaining...



A problem I think this might cause: When my engine is "cold"; I press the gas pedal all the way down and my RPMs will bog down a little and then rise up. Also when driving this effect will make the truck almost kill it self from a dead stop. When the engine is "warm" there are no problems what so ever. Now I believe it is the Charcoal Canister; which takes pressure from the gas take (correct me if I am wrong please). Now if that pressure is not relieved from the tank, could that be causing my "cold" engine problem? Is it not because the engine is cold rather because the pressure has not been relieved from the tank?

 

Bump, anybody?

 

First off not to be picky but that is the right side of the engine.
In the first picture, I don't know what that wire is but here is a tip. Look at that connector real good and if it not a LOT cleaner than the wire and surrounding stuff, don't worry about it. It is most likely to something that your rig is not factory equipped with. However, they may have disconnected it while repairing the hose.
The kinked hose I don't really know but it is possible that you have a kinked hose to the heater core and when you rev the engine, it has enough power behind the water pump to push coolant through there anyway.
Third pic no comment.

 

Here is a PDF file from the FSM that has to do with the third pic (thanks to oly)

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...76evaporat.pdf

Would it make sense for me to have those symptoms if the purge was un hooked?

 

that wire isnt connected to anything on mine either...noticed it before

 

First one:

I have all your answers. First wire os for your AC compressor, you dont have AC I assume.

Next one:

Bypass hose #3, tricky to replace and use the factory hose clamps. Order 2 new ones if you have to order the hose. Those screw type wil actually make the job tougher by 10 fold!

Final one:

Hose goes to a blue VSV (vacuum switching valve) right at the end of the fuel rail, it allows canister purge when warmed. If the engine has been apart by some hack tech, he probably broke it undoing the fuel line. Dealers usually stocks these.


That was too easy dude. Have anything tough?

 

Ha thanks a lot. Would the bypass hose #3 cause my heating problem?

And I do see the blue vsv where it plugs into, right at the back of the motor correct?

 

I really really like your attitude. Is there any way you can forsake your social life and start hanging out on yotatech like, I dunno, 90 -120 hours a week?

:bigclap: :bigclap: :bigclap:

 

Yes, bypass #3 would leak coolant, then no heat at low speeds, and eventually, higher speeds. Words of wisdom, order the hose from the dealer and have him get you the 2 factroy clamps to install. You will need those real long extended needle nose pliers to squeeze the clamp and slid it into place. As for the blue VSV, back of the intake, pass side, right at the back of the pass side fuel rail, follw the fuel line in. The hack tech loosened the fuel pulsation dampner and it unscrewed right into the VSV till it broke. Can be easily avoided by removing the cover off the dampner first.

 

Thanks for the kind words, but I'm busier than a one legged man at an a$$ kicking contest. I have a grandson that races dirbikes and I sponsor 100%, plus 20 acres forest land on the other side of the mt range I'm managing, getting ready for deer season. Its located right nest to the National Forest. During the summer, we do family group campouts with freinds on dirt bikes, lots of trail rides, and in the fall, deer season, grandsons indoor race series starts back up in the fall, runs til April... I though as one got older, he would have more free time. I found it to be just the opposite. I havent even included the people who want me to work on their cars at my house! I'm trying to stop working on cars at home, but its so hard to say no to easy money. I limit all that to Toyotas only!

 

Yeah well my wife solved that one when we got married. Now I just work late and through lunch a lot.

She's the red one.

 

Hey, you forgot to ask about that other connector, see the first picture? Look up at a 45' angle to the left. Its got a cap on it just barely hanging out from the harness. Well, that was used as an EGR gas temp sensor on California models. Those that didnt have it got the short cap installed which shorted the circuit out and disallowing the EGR temp sensor code. If you unplug it, you will get a code #71. And for those of you who have this code appearing on your cally modeal (and this applies to all Toyota models with OBDI) and cant get rid of it, "short the sensor" wires together and the light will never be back. But I didnt tell you that! Its not a bad idea ot fix it, will reduce ping etc. but just another option.