Cyberman

If you have been following my frame up restore thread, you might know that I am currently stripping the front suspension from the frame in order to sandblast it. Well, as luck would have it, I'm down to the LCAs. Apparently, the PO had never had an alignment done. The two nuts to the rear of the arms were rusted to the point of not fitting a socket on them, whereas, one of the front ones came right off with an impact. The fourth hasn't really been touched yet. Here's the dilemna - the bolts will not pass through the arms to remove them. I've tried the following:

1. BFH
2. heat - with MAPP gas
3. air chisel
4. wrenching on the head of the bolt
5. repeat

I'm at the point of completely destroying the arms in order to remove them. But before I do, I was seeking the advice of those on this forum. Does anyone have a good way of getting these things off. Again, I'm not against destroying them now, as the driver side already needs replaced. I have just about every tool available, with the exception of a cutting torch, which I believe I may need (angle grinder, impact, etc.).

Please save me my sanity...

Sosborne

I had a hard time with mine. I ended up using a friends plasma cutter.

Cyberman

I was reading your posts, looks like you had fun with new bushings as well. So, you used a plasma cutter how? Did you heat up the bolts, or cut them or how?

Sosborne

I cut the head off the bolt and used a punch and BFH to get them out. I did some minor damage to the drop arm in the process....But nothing serious

I could have used a cutting torch.....But the coolness factor of the plasma cutter was far too alluring.

Yes the bushings were a PITA. IME go with the OEM toyota bushings if you do the replacement.

Marc

Ok here's what I did. Hopefully it applies to your situation.

I did this a few years ago so probably I'm fogetting something.

I used a longer than normal hydraulic jack from my mini-frame tweaking kit mounted horizontally between the bolt and I believe my tranny cross member.

I put either a floor jack or axle stand under the horizontal jack to keep it from falling.

The bolt came out but it still wasn't easy. I think I bent the cross member slighty and in hindsight should have braced it as well.

Hope this helps.

Cyberman

No, I don't think that'll help, considering I don't have anything but a frame left.

I was considering cutting the heads off the bolts and see if it gave a little more, but then I would have nothing to wrench on (not like that was helping anyway). I'll give that a shot.

seanz0rz

you cant just grind the nuts off and then push the bolts out the normal way? (with a punch obviously)

Marc

Sorry it won't work. How about drilling them out?

Cyberman

I have the nuts off three of the bolts already. Pounded the crap out of them with the hammer, then tried an air chisel.

Drilling might work, but I don't have enough bits that it would require to drill out hardened bolts. If I had the money in the first place for bits, I'd buy/rent a hotter torch.

Cyberman

I forgot to add, the driver side arm is shot (half the shock bracket is gone). So I'll be replacing it anyway. The passenger side could still be saved, but will need new bushings, after melting them with the torch. I'm better off at this point getting both from the boneyard, just need to get these off.

shaeff

i had the exact same issue on my supra. (same principle) i ended up cutting the bolts out with oxy/set. torch. worked like a charm.

Cyberman

Well, I wasted $50 on an oxy/mapp torch, which was worthless for this project. I found my solution, although it is time consuming. I grind down both sides of the bolt with the angle grinder, then grind it flush to the bushing with a die grinder. I've got one side of one arm done, 3 more (and several stones) to go. These bolts are literally welded to the sleeve in the bushing.

shaeff

^ that's how they were on my supra. i had both sides out in less than 15 minutes with the torch...

in my opinion, that's the way to go, and is likely cheaper. i love the torches.

93Toyota PU

If you cut the nut off, and don't mind destroying the bushing, you might be able to torch the rubber bushing enough to pull it out. Also, if you Google Lower Control Arm bushing removal, a method should pop up involving a threaded rod and pipe. This method works if the bolt is already out.
I am currently having the same delima. I am trying to drill out the bolt and it is a tough job. Probably a Grade 8 bolt and it is really chewing up my drill bits. I am trying to save the bushing. But it may get to the point where I torch it out.

mudtoy1986

hey why dont you try cuting the bolt between the control arm braket and the arm then the arm will fall out the beat the freekin pi$$ out of what is left of the bolt always works for me btw i own 2 yotas ans 2nd and a 3rd gen had to do both of em over try a sawzall

Cyberman

I already have them off. I ended up grinding the bolts all the way down to the sleeves of the bushings. All 4 bolts were seized in the bushing sleeves. I debated cutting them like you said, however I couldn't see getting an angle grinder in there. And sawzalls don't agree with me, the blades either get dull, or break.

I'm certainly glad that's over, what a time consuming job. I've got 2 new lower arms and bolts to put them in.

Antiseize will be my friend.

Cyberman

I already have them off. I ended up grinding the bolts all the way down to the sleeves of the bushings. All 4 bolts were seized in the bushing sleeves. I debated cutting them like you said, however I couldn't see getting an angle grinder in there. And sawzalls don't agree with me, the blades either get dull, or break.

I'm certainly glad that's over, what a time consuming job. I've got 2 new lower arms and bolts to put them in.

Antiseize will be my friend.

93Toyota PU

Cyberman, if you don't mind me asking, where did you get your new bushings and sleeves? Still working on getting the boneyard LCA bolt out. But I ordered 2 new LCA bolts from the local stealer and they were $10 each! Wish I had gone to the Hardware store now.