Help: IFS diff - swapping longside ADD axle w/non-ADD axle
Apr 12, 2010 | 08:14 AM
#21
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From: North Carolina
Highonpottery, with the method you used to disable the ADD, is anything turning up front when you're in 2wd? I'm about to install an ADD 4.88, and I'm trying to decide between disabling the ADD or swapping the axle tube.
Apr 12, 2010 | 08:22 AM
#22
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Joined: Jun 2009
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From: North Carolina
https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...fsteardown.jpg
When you pull the axles, the hold the axle's in. You're supposed to replace them for some reason. I've read that in everything I've read about swapping the tubes.
When you pull the axles, the hold the axle's in. You're supposed to replace them for some reason. I've read that in everything I've read about swapping the tubes.
Dec 18, 2010 | 02:05 PM
#26
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Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 87
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From: Knoxville, TN
I did this today and the Toyota part number is exactly what I needed. List price is $19. Tapped it in with a piece of PVC, cleaned and siliconed the mating surface, then popped the nonADD shaft on. The snap rings still had plenty of resistance, so I didn't bother changing them. Also, my original nonADD bolts worked fine in the new ADD diff. So far no leaks 
Last edited by InvaderTrax; Dec 18, 2010 at 02:07 PM.
Apr 26, 2012 | 11:02 PM
#28
ok, so i think i may have a part number on this item which is called a "differential output shaft seal". It is well documented in the online FSM, but unfortunately it didn't have a part#, so i had to call around and find that nobody stocks one, yay! since mine seems to be in good condition, I think I will rent a puller and try to get mine out intact before ordering one up because it will take a day or two to get in.
Napa part #13725
Kragen part #3459
Toyota part #9031135032
Napa part #13725
Kragen part #3459
Toyota part #9031135032
Apr 28, 2012 | 02:22 PM
#29
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Joined: Jun 2008
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You could always just permanently lock the ADD differential so you don't have to worry about sourcing all of the parts to convert it. I followed this write up about 4 years back and it has yet to fail me.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
Apr 29, 2012 | 08:50 PM
#30
You could always just permanently lock the ADD differential so you don't have to worry about sourcing all of the parts to convert it. I followed this write up about 4 years back and it has yet to fail me.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/add/
Apr 29, 2012 | 11:21 PM
#31
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 1,526
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From: N37 39* W122 3*
not only cleaner but the ADD stubby axle has this narrow part that when you are low-low with dual transfer cases and a front tru-trac and you gun it and lift the tires and the tire hits the ground, will round off around 90 degrees before it shears clean off...
dont ask me how i know...
dont ask me how i know...
Apr 30, 2012 | 07:00 PM
#32
not only cleaner but the ADD stubby axle has this narrow part that when you are low-low with dual transfer cases and a front tru-trac and you gun it and lift the tires and the tire hits the ground, will round off around 90 degrees before it shears clean off...
dont ask me how i know...
dont ask me how i know...
i think we all have a few of those types of stories
May 2, 2012 | 10:09 AM
#34
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Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 73
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From: North Carolina
Hoping someone can help with this one that's done the swap of a non-ADD longside tube/axle of an IFS diff to one that used to have ADD.
I scored some factory 4.88 diffs for my 93 pickup. Removed my 4.10 IFS diff from the truck and removed the longside tube/axle. Cleaned up 4.88 IFS diff and removed longside shaft + short ADD stubby gear axle thingy.
My question is what else needs to be swapped over?
When looking into longside axle hole, the 4.10 diff has a gasket-type race/bearing that looks like it makes a seal/gasket with the non-ADD axle shaft. Deeper into the diff is a machined piece of metal tubing that looks to have the same ID as the seal, but it has a spiral groove machined into its internal surface. I'm not sure what to call that part, but on the 4.88/ADD diff, there is a bearing instead of this machined piece. There is also no seal on that diff, either.
So yeah, I'm stumped at this point. I'm assuming that I'll either need to buy a new "seal" bearing thingy or swap the part over, but I don't know what to do with the internal bearing. Guessing I'll need to get a bearing puller? Any input?
Got my lockright installed into the rear 4.88 diff, but won't swap those until I get the front finished.
I scored some factory 4.88 diffs for my 93 pickup. Removed my 4.10 IFS diff from the truck and removed the longside tube/axle. Cleaned up 4.88 IFS diff and removed longside shaft + short ADD stubby gear axle thingy.
My question is what else needs to be swapped over?
When looking into longside axle hole, the 4.10 diff has a gasket-type race/bearing that looks like it makes a seal/gasket with the non-ADD axle shaft. Deeper into the diff is a machined piece of metal tubing that looks to have the same ID as the seal, but it has a spiral groove machined into its internal surface. I'm not sure what to call that part, but on the 4.88/ADD diff, there is a bearing instead of this machined piece. There is also no seal on that diff, either.
So yeah, I'm stumped at this point. I'm assuming that I'll either need to buy a new "seal" bearing thingy or swap the part over, but I don't know what to do with the internal bearing. Guessing I'll need to get a bearing puller? Any input?
Got my lockright installed into the rear 4.88 diff, but won't swap those until I get the front finished.
May 6, 2012 | 02:17 PM
#36
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