Help: IFS diff - swapping longside ADD axle w/non-ADD axle
#1
Help: IFS diff - swapping longside ADD axle w/non-ADD axle
Hoping someone can help with this one that's done the swap of a non-ADD longside tube/axle of an IFS diff to one that used to have ADD.
I scored some factory 4.88 diffs for my 93 pickup. Removed my 4.10 IFS diff from the truck and removed the longside tube/axle. Cleaned up 4.88 IFS diff and removed longside shaft + short ADD stubby gear axle thingy.
My question is what else needs to be swapped over?
When looking into longside axle hole, the 4.10 diff has a gasket-type race/bearing that looks like it makes a seal/gasket with the non-ADD axle shaft. Deeper into the diff is a machined piece of metal tubing that looks to have the same ID as the seal, but it has a spiral groove machined into its internal surface. I'm not sure what to call that part, but on the 4.88/ADD diff, there is a bearing instead of this machined piece. There is also no seal on that diff, either.
So yeah, I'm stumped at this point. I'm assuming that I'll either need to buy a new "seal" bearing thingy or swap the part over, but I don't know what to do with the internal bearing. Guessing I'll need to get a bearing puller? Any input?
Got my lockright installed into the rear 4.88 diff, but won't swap those until I get the front finished.
I scored some factory 4.88 diffs for my 93 pickup. Removed my 4.10 IFS diff from the truck and removed the longside tube/axle. Cleaned up 4.88 IFS diff and removed longside shaft + short ADD stubby gear axle thingy.
My question is what else needs to be swapped over?
When looking into longside axle hole, the 4.10 diff has a gasket-type race/bearing that looks like it makes a seal/gasket with the non-ADD axle shaft. Deeper into the diff is a machined piece of metal tubing that looks to have the same ID as the seal, but it has a spiral groove machined into its internal surface. I'm not sure what to call that part, but on the 4.88/ADD diff, there is a bearing instead of this machined piece. There is also no seal on that diff, either.
So yeah, I'm stumped at this point. I'm assuming that I'll either need to buy a new "seal" bearing thingy or swap the part over, but I don't know what to do with the internal bearing. Guessing I'll need to get a bearing puller? Any input?
Got my lockright installed into the rear 4.88 diff, but won't swap those until I get the front finished.
#2
bump....nobody's got any input on this? here is a link off Zuk's website showing a pic of the "oil seal" that i'm referring to. it's in the last pic on the page: http://gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm
as for the machined oil slinger vs the needle bearings, there shouldn't be a need to swap one for the other, either should do the trick.
as for the machined oil slinger vs the needle bearings, there shouldn't be a need to swap one for the other, either should do the trick.
#6
ok, so i think i may have a part number on this item which is called a "differential output shaft seal". It is well documented in the online FSM, but unfortunately it didn't have a part#, so i had to call around and find that nobody stocks one, yay! since mine seems to be in good condition, I think I will rent a puller and try to get mine out intact before ordering one up because it will take a day or two to get in.
Napa part #13725
Kragen part #3459
Toyota part #9031135032
Napa part #13725
Kragen part #3459
Toyota part #9031135032
#7
kragen oil seal #3459 was a no-go. OD of the metal housing was slightly too small to fit the housing and the ID of the gasket was around 1/4" too big in diameter. going to try the toyota one, but they've got to order it for me. in case i can't get the correct seal, yesterday I rigged the ADD tube so that it is permanently engaged by use of a hose clamp to keep the actuator from moving.
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#10
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At least you got a back up option if it doesn't work...let me know how the one from toyota goes You also gotta get the new snap rings, you locate them yet?
#12
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https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...fsteardown.jpg
When you pull the axles, the hold the axle's in. You're supposed to replace them for some reason. I've read that in everything I've read about swapping the tubes.
When you pull the axles, the hold the axle's in. You're supposed to replace them for some reason. I've read that in everything I've read about swapping the tubes.
#13
oh, that snap ring. yeah i saw it, didn't figure it was a typical snap ring since it was just a ring-shaped piece of rod, not a flat ring with holes on the ends. i just reused it, it looked fine.
i'm just going to use the ADD shaft for now even though i'm picking up the seal from toyota today. i need to get things wrapped up ASAP and don't have time to deal with properly pressing in the seal. i'll keep the solid axle shaft around for when/if i break the ADD one.
i'm just going to use the ADD shaft for now even though i'm picking up the seal from toyota today. i need to get things wrapped up ASAP and don't have time to deal with properly pressing in the seal. i'll keep the solid axle shaft around for when/if i break the ADD one.
#16
sweet. hopefully this info will help someone in the future. also, don't forget that you'll need 4 new bolts to mount the non-ADD tube to the pumpkin. the star-pattern ones from the ADD tube are different lengths and the regular hex-head bolts from the non-ADD tube are too long and will bottom out before seating the flange.
#18
You don't need to buy new bolts to do this - I used the bolts from the NON-ADD longside tube to bolt it to the 'ADD' diff.
It's been a long time since I've been through this but I know for certain that I didn't buy or find different bolts.
It's been a long time since I've been through this but I know for certain that I didn't buy or find different bolts.
#19
https://www.yotatech.com/attachments...fsteardown.jpg
When you pull the axles, the hold the axle's in. You're supposed to replace them for some reason. I've read that in everything I've read about swapping the tubes.
When you pull the axles, the hold the axle's in. You're supposed to replace them for some reason. I've read that in everything I've read about swapping the tubes.
#20
i didn't end up swapping the tubes due to the bolts, the oil seals, and a time constraint. i will someday...
i didn't replace the snap ring with a new one, either. i used the ADD tube/axle assy. and disabled the ADD. i don't think i'll have any issues with the snap ring letting the axle pop out since it is a 2-piece axle.