the coolant in the overflow starts to get all foamy and the top of the radiator gets really hot along with the upper rad hose but the temp gauge inside doesnt read hot and i dont notice any other issues when im driving but you can hear it bubbling in the radiator to please help could this be a headgasket issue? 3vze

 

Headgasket issues will usually result in oil/antifreeze mixture on the inside of your oilcap so check there. It will look like a chocolate milkshake. Has any work been done on the cooling system recently etc.? Air bubbles can do some strange things IME. Is it loosing coolant over time?

 

i recentley did a rad flush cause it was doing this before but then it went away for a while and now its worse than before maybe the rad flush created air in the radiator nothing out of the ordinary under the oilcap doesnt really loose coolant

 

i drive it every day and dont notice any problems resulting from this except the hot radiator and foaming coolant no overheating issues or anything like that

 

so im thinking its probly not the headgasket

 

a bad radiator cap will suck air when heating up?

 

i replaced the rad cap when i flushed the rad

 

Im thinking not a head gasket either. I'm no expert or even a competent mechanic really but if your head gasket was failing and you were still driving it every day I'm quite sure you'd be having drivability issues and overheating to the point where the truck would give up. I wish I could help you more. I'd try giving the cooling system a good burp and go from there. Judging from my experience in my personal failed attempts at working on cooling systems (not saying you failed or this is your problem) air bubbles have baffled me more than once and they can cause problems. The only thing inconsistent with my experience and what you are telling me is that my temp guage did read hot.

 

yea probly gonna change the thermostat and fliush the rad again and try and get any air outa there n hopefully that will solve it

 

Last post sounds like a plan, Kyle...

My experience;

Mine began to pressurize after replacing the Water Pump(Mine was weeping out the weep hole and caused it to run a bit hot/bubble over).... SOON AS I replaced the pump, I guess it was a whole new 'flow' that the Radiator couldn't handle/possible knocked some crap loose... Next thing, "radiator foamed up and sprung a leak".... BTW; it looked PRISTINE down inside in the rods you could see.... Apparently it was not, lol. Replaced the radiator and voila, been 'cool' ever since. One of the easiest things to pull out and have tested(if what you try doesn't solve it). I noticed when it really got plugged up after the water pump swap.... One of the hoses(can't remember if lower or upper) became hard as a baseball bat, the other was not.(with a new OEM Stat, too, that's still in there today).

Hope it's not the radiator heading south on ya, rather, something simple like "burping needed",

 

These help immensely with radiator air pockets. I hate to see you spend money on something if this is not the problem but in the same token this is a good tool to own http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1..._kit_wext.html

 

anyone have a good way to go about burping the rad?

 

Get it on a steeeeeeep hill, block the rear tires, jack it up further and run it.

I also would drop it down fairly quickly, then jack it back up, bouncing it in a way(quick on the jack handle and not all the way, just getting it to bounce a lil).

I have a T-into the system that helps with burping as well. I've cracked that flush kit-T and had air 'pfshhhhhhhhhht' outta there for a second. Air can also get trapped by the heater core/in it as well. But you should be ok with a good burping of "getting the front end up as high as possible".

 

would just simply opening the butterfly valve at the bottom while rad cap is still on work?

 

or run it with the rad cap off? i unfortunatley dont have acess to a good jack

 

Throw that sucker over your shoulder and start patting

 

just went thru this last week lol! go for a trail ride coolant would boil ,rad seemed full, this got worse and worse to the piont that i started to loose fluid to the over flow and was adding fluid etc etc. come to find out i had a pin hole in the rad and was getting air into the system causing it to get air bound . replaced rad and it seemed to of take for ever to get rid of the air and get it full of fluid again. it would come to a boil even tho it seemed full. it took alot of patience to let it completely cool down top off and run to proper temp and let cool again etc. all i can say is be patient and dont try to fill it to the very top leave a little breathing room until you get the air out and dont over heat it during the warm up and cool down cycles. good luck! now does any one want to talk about bleeding brakes on a toyota!! lol

 

if you need a radiator, call 1800radiator and have them price match ebay. I got a $220 radiator for $95.

 

ORRRR, get it up on a steep incline and onto some blocks or a curb... Then bounce off and on it a couple times. You don't really need to 'bounce' it... It just seemed to force out a couple pockets for me. I mean, it SHOULD burb itself for the most part via the overflow, that's how it's set up. BUT, doesn't always get it all. But getting the front end up in the air? Yeah, just think about it like a balance-tool.

Wishing for the best for ya, Kyle... As I said, hope you don't need one, but just know that you'll find the best source of a deal, on Yotatech, if you do end up needing one, right?

 

thanks for the advice will give it a try tommorow