Daddyota

I'm doing the brake upgrade for my 86 ifs 4runner and I'm a little lost on where to begin. Here's what I have so far:

93 brake booster
93 1" dual diaphragm brake master cylinder
93 v6 calipers

New wheel bearings
New rotors
New pads

New drums and hardware
New landcruiser wheel cylinders

Originally I was going to pay a shop to have the rotors and bearings replaced due to not having that pita 54mm socket. But since I just cleaned and painted my locking hubs with new gaskets and seals without screwing it up I feel invincible and think I can do it.



I have the 85 fsm but I pretty sure the ifs brakes and hubs are different from the sfa ones. When I look at the pictures in the 85fsm they look weird

So I guess my question is, what order should I go about replacing all this stuff (if it matters) and do I need any special tools or additional seals to remove and replace the bearings and rotors?

I have bench bled the master cylinder and now I should....?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Makes no difference which you do first for the install.

If you are doing this Brake upgrade do you plan to replace the rubber hoses as well???

Replace the Emergency Brake hardware as well??

These are new parts ?? not unknown quality from a yard ??

Yes the brakes are some what different .

maco35

For brakes the '93 FSM will work for you.. http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-buchanan/93fsm/

Daddyota

Rubber hoses.... Yeah I wasn't tracking those or the e-brake. Important to upgrade those as well?

The master and booster are replacements from the originals on a wrecked vehicle, so not original but not new. The calipers are the originals and everything else is new.

So nothing special needed to replace the bearings eh?

Daddyota

Thanks maco I'll check it out. Did you replace the bearings when you did your upgrade?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

If your planning to keep this truck the 52mm socket is a good investment.I just bought two off Amazon pretty cheap

The emergency Brake is what keeps the rear brakes adjusted if the rear shoes are out of adjustment your upgrade was just a big waste of parts and time.

The rubber hoses as they age even some of the new china made ones swell up under pressure meaning less fluid to push pistons in calipers and wheel cylinders

maco35

No, just kept the old ones since they were good. Just don't forget to bench bleed the master cylinder and the rest of the brake system, you will feel the difference in the stopping power you are gonna have with the ''new'' brakes.

Daddyota

Ok so I took a peek at the fsm and all I could find was a blowup pic of the spindle and brakes. Are there instructions anywhere including pictures or video? I've searched to no avail. Sorry, I grew up in the YouTube generation and suck at purely written instructions. I'm just worried about screwing up the bearings somehow.

I bought the socket from trail gear today so now alls I need are some new hoses and ebrake hardware.


I can't wait for these brakes to work !

maco35

Here you go,

Daddyota

Maco!!!! Thank you- this is exactly what I was searching for but could not find.

I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

maco35

Good luck with your project, let us know how it goes.

Daddyota

Last question, I think stainless brake hoses are beyond my budget for now, would you guys have any suggestions for rubber ones? I'm looking on rock auto but just don't want to get something that will be crap.

osv

rock auto has a lot of choices in brake hoses... they will all probably work fine.

you said '93 brake booster... was it out of a 4cyl truck?

what you want for this conversion is the large diameter dual booster... mine came out of a t100.

Daddyota

Ok cool others have said not to use cheap rubber hoses but I don't really want to fork out $80 for new stainless ones because this went from replacing one caliper to replacing all the brakes parts!!!

the dual diaphram and 1"bore mc are from a v6 truck.

AdmiralYoda

Let us know how it turns out. I bought 96 T100 calipers, rotors, pads, master cylinder, and wheel cylinders. I replaced the rubber lines as well. While I was at it I rebuilt the rear brakes.

I got a dual diaphragm booster from ebay out of a 96 T100 too. Lastly, I ditched the LSPV in favor of a manual proportioning valve.

My brakes work awesome now. Almost too awesome. I can lock up all 4 tires on command and it doesn't take much pressure at all to stop.

My wife has a newish Nissan Versa and I used to think the brakes were awesome in that car compared to all the other vehicles I had driven in the past few years....

Now when I drive her car after drving my 4Runner I feel like her brakes are absolute crap!

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Was it the brake upgrade or the fact most all the parts were new??

Daddyota

Ok I have a newborn in the house so I'm only able to work a few minutes at a time for fear of getting destroyed by my wife for not "helping" and working on "that old homeless piece of crap."

I finally got the hub and rotor off and I noticed there is some play or slop in the spindle/cv. I did a quick search and it looks like it could be a spindle bushing. Is this normal and not important or something that I should go cry in the bathroom about?

Daddyota

Is a little play In the spindle/cv ok?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Define a little??

I feel your pain .

I would tell some women who said that to me My Goodness your so right I think my time and money would be better spent on a Mistress!!.

Then rebuilding a fine Vehicle.

Daddyota

Ha! Good one. I told her but she just gave me the silent stare of death.

So this job is really giving me a whoopin...

The cv where it comes out of the spindle moves a little back and forth up down and all around. Not much play but enough that I went hrmmmm this seems weird.

I also broke a bolt head off when I was putting the rotor onto the hub. I was using the torque wrench and I don't know if it was me or the wrench (I vote me) but I broke it off. I looked at the fsm and it said 80 ft lbs. so tomorrow I have to figure out how to get that bad boy out and get a new stud.

More importantly, I drove in the outer race by tapping it into place, but then I read on http://www.off-road.com/trucks-4x4/t...ent-18322.html as well as he 5 part video that you're supposed to just set the whole bearing in with the race and adjust the preload.

I've been working late into the night on this thing so I screwed up by tapping the race in all the way. Do you guys think this will matte r much?