Heim Joints for Tie Rod Ends
#41
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I have not had it aligned yet. I'll let you know how that turns out. The truck is not exactlly tagged and inspected (it's a trail rig), but I did drive it around the block late last night & could tell a big improvement in steering feel. My TRE's where shot so it was bound to make a big difference, not sure how much improved it would have been compared to good TRE's.
#43
Registered User
I had planned on milling some flats, but ended up just using some channel locks to adjust them. Truth be told I needed the 4runner out of my garage for another project so I ran out of time and just put it together. I think it will be fine with out the flats.
#45
Very cool thread. That is exactly what I will be doing with my setup.
yotarob2005; all ya have to do now is convert your lower arms to uniballs, and make an upper arm like mine to use a uniball. Do away with the BJ spacer and get more droop and up travel. I think mine will be right about 11 inches of wheel travel width stock width arms, stock steering geometry (adding hiems and chromoly tie rods) and ZERO CV bind. oh yeah stock CVs too
Another thought would be to add some material to the spindle just above the tie rod end on the spindle to get a double shear point on the spindle for the hiem. Like a gusset. that way you would never shear that bolt at high side loads.
Very Cool stuff guys!
yotarob2005; all ya have to do now is convert your lower arms to uniballs, and make an upper arm like mine to use a uniball. Do away with the BJ spacer and get more droop and up travel. I think mine will be right about 11 inches of wheel travel width stock width arms, stock steering geometry (adding hiems and chromoly tie rods) and ZERO CV bind. oh yeah stock CVs too
Another thought would be to add some material to the spindle just above the tie rod end on the spindle to get a double shear point on the spindle for the hiem. Like a gusset. that way you would never shear that bolt at high side loads.
Very Cool stuff guys!
#48
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That is pretty cool! as far as the drilling being undoable on the drag link, a new drag link only cost me $18 bucks at the junk yard so I figured I will give it a shot (ive still got my old one so I may just try it out on that one first to see how well it works.) Also dont ever buy anything from ballistic fabrication. Im still waiting on my tubing to get in and ive had the rest of the parts sitting in my room for a couple of weeks now. Ridiculous.
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#52
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I'll take another look & you should too, but I thought about putting in in the front also, but decided that as you turn the wheel your tubing will bind against the drag link. Also I did NOT want to drill out the drag link b/c at that point it could never be undone if you needed too.
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