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86-95 Trucks & 4Runners 2nd/3rd gen pickups, and 1st/2nd gen 4Runners with IFS

Headlight Relay Harness

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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 10:34 AM
  #101  
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i'm very intimated with wiring , what color and length of wire do I need ? i want to tackle this unless some one wants to make me one
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 01:39 PM
  #102  
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From: San Francisco East Bay
Richard: I hate to be discouraging, but if you are asking these questions, you will be better off having someone else do whatever wiring you're thinking of.

The wire has to be long enough to reach where ever you're going. The electrons can't see the insulation, and don't care what color you use. That's for your benefit, and you can pick Chartruse if you're into that.

But the gauge of the wire matters, as does the types of connectors used and the capacity of the relays. Most of which was covered earlier in this thread.

Stick to that with which you feel comfortable.
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 06:12 PM
  #103  
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Chartreuse is not my color maybe lavender , maybe I am over thinking it , just trying to gather as much info as possible
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Old Jan 12, 2013 | 04:16 PM
  #104  
'85 Yota's Avatar
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Well I'm gonna give it a go and try to make my own. I'm a wiring nooooooob so we will see how it goes.
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Old Jan 15, 2013 | 07:41 PM
  #105  
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From: Tacoma
Originally Posted by BMcEL
Assembled a headlight relay harness today. I drafted up a quick (don't laugh) schematic and got to work:



All cable is 12awg THHN except for the H4 pigtails...they're 12awg stranded but not THHN rated. I should have taken pics of the process but when I'm in go mode I just go. Here's the final product:



(2) 30A relays
(2) Female H4 pigtails
12awg THHN
Ring terminals for the battery connections
Butt connectors for the H4 pigtails
Male spade terminals for the factory H4 connector
Female spade terminals for the relays
1/2" wire loom
Electrical tape to wrap the loom

If you want to go all out, you could use a male H4 pigtail instead of male spades to plug into the factory H4 connector and relay pigtails instead of female spades to plug into the relays.

I ended up running a dedicated ground back to the battery (zip-tied to the loom every 6") afterwards. I figured with this much effort I might as well run the extra cable. Copper conducts better than steel and I didn't want ANY weak links.

Went for a quick drive tonight but I need to re-aim the housings. Even with the beams all over the place it's amazing how much brighter good halogens are vs. HIDs in halogen housings. One of these days I'll install a projector retrofit like this and go back to HIDs but for now halogen is fine. 55w/100w bulbs by the way.
Just wondering, do your highs turn off with your lows?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 04:37 PM
  #106  
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Originally Posted by '85 Yota
Just wondering, do your highs turn off with your lows?
Yes. The lows stay on with the highs, however.
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 04:59 PM
  #107  
'85 Yota's Avatar
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From: Tacoma
Originally Posted by BMcEL
Yes. The lows stay on with the highs, however.
Ok thanks. I made mine the other day and its a big improvement. How hot do your housings get with the 100w highs with lows?
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Old Jan 16, 2013 | 05:12 PM
  #108  
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Not too hot, but I have glass/metal housings. I wouldn't try it with plastic.
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Old Jan 29, 2015 | 05:55 PM
  #109  
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Originally Posted by BMcEL
Assembled a headlight relay harness today. I drafted up a quick (don't laugh) schematic and got to work:



All cable is 12awg THHN except for the H4 pigtails...they're 12awg stranded but not THHN rated. I should have taken pics of the process but when I'm in go mode I just go. Here's the final product:



(2) 30A relays
(2) Female H4 pigtails
12awg THHN
Ring terminals for the battery connections
Butt connectors for the H4 pigtails
Male spade terminals for the factory H4 connector
Female spade terminals for the relays
1/2" wire loom
Electrical tape to wrap the loom

If you want to go all out, you could use a male H4 pigtail instead of male spades to plug into the factory H4 connector and relay pigtails instead of female spades to plug into the relays.

I ended up running a dedicated ground back to the battery (zip-tied to the loom every 6") afterwards. I figured with this much effort I might as well run the extra cable. Copper conducts better than steel and I didn't want ANY weak links.

Went for a quick drive tonight but I need to re-aim the housings. Even with the beams all over the place it's amazing how much brighter good halogens are vs. HIDs in halogen housings. One of these days I'll install a projector retrofit like this and go back to HIDs but for now halogen is fine. 55w/100w bulbs by the way.
I cannot see the image of the schematic. has it been removed. It seems to be what I need. please help
JR
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