i did my headlight relays and harness six years ago what a difference in light quality.i used 2 bosch 30 amp relays and ten guage wire.i also ranten guage ground andpower supply from batterry.a year later i installed sylvania silver star headlites..another big change.soon i will install hella h4 non seal beams with 55x100 bulbs.my truck is a 87 4x4.my wife has an 864x4 work truck all stock except for sylvania silverstars no comparisonin light quality.just my2 cents worth

 

Good job on the rewire (10awg is probably best for halogens), however, ditch the Sylvania Silverstars in favor of a good bulb. Sylvanias are junk.

OSRAM Silverstars are significantly higher quality and last longer. Osram nightbreakers are pretty wicked, too, along with Phillips xtreme power (I think that's what they are)

 

I know ive seen this around the lane county area. high five on the wiring. I went with autopal (ebay) housing and silvania silverstars, Lighting is to perfect for me to keep trying to make it better. I had two hella 700ff also to help illuminate my way. But a deer took one. I would recomend this combo to anyone else. But i do get flashed by about 1 out of every 25 cars.

 

10awg is way overkill, but there's nothing wrong with that. Even at 14.4vdc, 200 watts only pulls 13.89 amps. The harness I made is less than 7' long and based on the chart below, 18awg is sufficient (I used 12awg). 7' of 10awg can handle (12) 100w lights comfortably at 12vdc.



Thanks man. My next step is Autopal housings and better bulbs but even with crap housings and cheap bulbs it's awesome.

 

[quote=BMcEL;51808338]I did...how'd you know? And the projectors you're describing (and in my pic above) are NOT real projectors. They are fake and do absolutely nothing.




We went to High school together. I use to see you in shop class working on ur exhaust.

 

Haha the old tri-tip, forgot about that until now! Small world. PM sent rollz. Found an old pic too...it got tweaked one day wheelin but here it is.





Took a drive tonight to re-aim the headlights.

Low beams:



High beams:



Put some backup lights on the other day too. Relayed straight to the battery of course:

 

Take an inside view picture of the lights, ill snap one of mine when my truck gets back from the shop.

 

I meant to do a before & after from in the cab, PnP HIDs vs rewired halogens, but I forgot. I thought about taking an in-cab shot tonight but it seemed kinda pointless without a before shot. I'll take one tomorrow night...definitely interested in the difference between my crap housings and cheap bulbs vs Autopals and better bulbs.

 

as i saidmy lights are sealed beams sylvania..when i install my hella non seal beams i will change the bulbs.and those junk sylvanias are a third more light than stock .or that could from the harness.kenny

 

I had those sealed beam sylvania silver stars in mine as well. Although the light output is the best I've seen from a sealed beam, they lasted me less then 4 months. Not worth the $20 a piece to buy 3 times a year.

 

Do you happen to have a parts list for your relay harness?

Also where did you get your H4 pigtails?

 

H4 pigtails came from a local auto parts store. I used the following:

(2) 30A relays
(2) Female H4 pigtails
12awg THHN
Ring terminals for the battery connections
Butt connectors for the H4 pigtails
Male spade terminals for the factory H4 connector
Female spade terminals for the relays
1/2" wire loom
Electrical tape to wrap the loom

If you want to go all out, you could use a male H4 pigtail instead of male spades to plug into the factory H4 connector and relay pigtails instead of female spades to plug into the relays.

 

sorry, new to the forum and toyotas. why the new harness? is there too much of a voltage drop with the stock wiring or are you upgrading your bulbs? if you are upgrading, what are you using? h4 sockets were mentioned. do they fit into the stock housing? what bulbs are you getting that draw 200w? Thanks so much! Lots to learn.

 

I'm using H4 conversion housings with 55w/100w H4 bulbs. 55w low beam x 2 = 110w. 100w high beam x 2 = 200w. A relay harness ensures you are getting full voltage to the bulbs and eliminates the risk of melting the factory wiring with high-watt bulbs.

 

Thanks for the list. Looks like I got a small project for next weekend

 

Post up the results!

 

i have a question bout my lights and looks like yall no what yall are talking about ok let me try and explain this when i turn my lights on they come on ok then i go to put my high beam lights on and they come on SOMETIMES lol whats wrong with them i was thinking a fuse but if it wa a fuse then they wouldnt come on at all

 

I have measured quite a bit of voltage drop. I think it is pretty common. Lots of threads like this one.

 

Do you have the housing you have class or plastic? I'm going to build a harness. I want to use at least a 100w bulb. mine are glass so i doubt it would hurt anything.

 

Just out of curiosity, why didn't you pop a diode in there between the high and low relays so you can run dual beams? (lows stay on with highs, but not vice versa)

PS- I was still getting 12.4ish volts at my factory harness, however the amperage was significantly less than after I rewired with 12awg I'm sure. (I'm running dual beams, Osram Nightbreaker bulbs in Hella E-code housings)

Will be doing a proper HID retrofit in the future, though. The retro I did on my M3 has me spoiled. LOL.