skypilot

iTrader: (1)

You put the head gasket in upside down and blocked some passageways. Or your timing is advanced. Did you jumper the pins?

punks_is_4x4

Ok well new issue. I replaced the manifold with a Dorman Chinese replica exhaust manifold
now I'm having an over heating issue. All vacuums lines are right I have flow through the rad
belts are tight
fan clutch seems to be working. The fan shroud is on all hoses are tight no leaks. Air flow is good. Where am I messing up. It got so hot that I replaced the rad cap I pulled the thermostat adjust all the rad hoses what else could be causing this. It's usually when I am crushing the highway at around 50 mph trying around 2500 to 3k Rpms

punks_is_4x4

the gasket only goes on one way I made sure it was all set right I put the timing to 5 degrees I jumped the pins when I did it. The only thing I'm not 100% on is there is a LCE adjustable timing gear on my cam shaft and it is I believe 2 degrees retarded. Which is to change the torque to low end or high end or to adjust it for a decked block.
I don't have any coolant leaks and there's no coolant in the oil

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Never played with that gear. If you did not cut the head more than .010 you do not need it, set it for straight up. The engine is too small for that trick.

On the race engines we use a worn timing chain to do that for us.

punks_is_4x4

It's straight up and down now the head is brand new. I adjust valves and retorqued headbolts to day reset ecu and put in a new thermostat still over heating. Next is new water pump and fan clutch I guess

punks_is_4x4

Ok so after talking with some old time toyota guys. I'm pretty sure the head gasket failed somewhere. I have flow in the coolant I have the fan blowing. I retorqued my head bolts to 65 pounds and did a valve adjustment and adjusted the timing to 5 degrees. I'm gonna do a compression test and see what I get

punks_is_4x4

Highly suggest using one of these if this is yr problem. It's the head gasket. Some where it's getting combustion gases into the coolant

punks_is_4x4

Replaced the head gasket it in 3 hours and checked the thermostat again and tested it. Toyota one failed but the cheap one from o'Riley's worked. Drove it for a min it got a little hot the gauge went up above half for a second then when I stopped it went back down to below half while idling.
I think inspected my rad. Seemed that some how it had slipped down on the chassis and the fan was only blowing on the top half of the rad and hitting the shroud. So now it's mounted back up where it should be.
Been driving it to work all week and have barely seen the gauge move. My guess is it was a chain of events. The fan wasn't cooling the rad enough it got hot and the thermostat failed. Built hot pressure and caused the HG to fail. The gasket has a little chunk missing on the gasket side right on a water passage. Plus my head bolts has come a couple pounds loose so this time I went straight to 65 pounds so it's all good to go now.



Next question and diagnosing is. How in first place did all my exhaust valves start leaking. I have a small crack at the back of my muffler where the tail pipe meets the oval.
anything else that can cause exhaust valves to leak ??

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

Exhaust valves leak because they are burned. otherwise they should be fine. exhaust pipes are to route nasty stuff away from you. cracks are just welded up, move on to next.

punks_is_4x4

Alright so I'm getting so frustrated with this lemon of a 22re. I've had 5 of them and this one by far has been the most problematic. Not even 4000 miles with the new head. I've solved the over heating issue. It was a combination of headgasket thermostat and radiator. So now. I'm getting the exact same issue I was last winter with it starting to run kinda rough and have a miss fire and I'm pretty sure my valves are starting to leak. It's running the same way. Now before I have my old head rebuilt. Wth causes them to start leaking. What else do I check that could cause this. The only thing wrong with the exahaust is the crack at the back side of the muffler.
Something with my pistons or rings? I'm pretty stumped and I am tired of throwing parts at it.

punks_is_4x4

So if they leak because they are burned why do they burn?

punks_is_4x4

Help. I'm gonna take it to the place called " toy doctor" to figure out why my valves are getting loose. I don't understand it.

skypilot

iTrader: (1)

I can tell you why;

You have an oil that does not properly lubricate the camshaft. May be great for modern roller cam engines, but has no place in an older engine. Go to 50rat blog and find an excellent oil for your engines. I use Mobil one its the oldest one of the synthetics.

I suggest you choose stainless valves for the replacement, less trouble.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

They burn when they leak, valve blow by. They burn when the combustion is incomplete due to improper timing (retard to much), compression ratio to high (ping).

You need a zinc additive, this conditions the wear surfaces with a harder slipperier surface. Another cause could be improper torque on the lock nut. And finally oil flow, the oil galley runs thru the foremost right hand head bolt passage, if the wrong size bolt is here it reduces the flow..