AW1090

alright, but aside from just sending them.... Is that everything that should be on the injector so I can make sure I got everything out? The reason I ask is this other part looks so different.

92 TOY

ugh...it's been too long.

those plain donut shaped ones (without ridges) is there a possibility those are the ones for when you attach the fuel rails down on the manifold??

AW1090

If they are then I didn't receive any of the ones on my injectors in my gasket kit. I also didn't see any of them in my intake manifold. I actually dug out most of the ones on my injectors from the cups in the intake manifold. If you're talking about the spacers for the fuel rail bolts that attach the fuel rails to the manifold that could be the case, but I'll have to check...

92 TOY

yes...that's what I am talking about

those plastic "cups" that the injectors seat into on the manifold probably don't need to be replaced, but the do have a rubber ring around them to hold them snugly in the manifold (I did not realize that until I installed the new "cups" and then figured out that the get a rubber ring gasket and then the fit very well into place.

92 TOY

post #975 might help in joe's

AW1090

Thanks.. I checked it out and it does help a bit. I have a hard time telling the difference in some of them on the diagrams. I can tell large from smaller, but like with the o-rings there are a variety of sizes. They don't post the diameter of the rings and I'm so ocd it kills me. I'm sure things will fall into place once I can physically look at the spots where things go, but the truck is in a friends garage where all the work is happening so that can't happen anytime I wanna just look. Also, I like to plan ahead and when I can't see things through clearly it drives me nuts.

scope103

I wouldn't use anything like a wire brush on anything that is a mating surface (like the top of the block). The wire is harder than the block and will wear it away. You can get non-woven pads ("Scotch-Brite") for your drill/die grinder that are much less destructive.

A razor blade (held at a low-angle, of course) is best. I don't worry too much about residue (I use paint thinner), but acetone or brake disc cleaner leaves the least behind. Remember that acetone is very flammable. And it's a voracious solvent; if you get it on a screwdriver handle the handle will melt.

92 TOY

don't put acetone in a dixie cup either. ask me how I know.

AW1090

heheh.... got it. No steel brush on the top of the block and no acetone in a dixie cup. The things you learn on yotatech. I'll use the wire brush on the on all surfaces excluding mating surfaces. I will only use a razor or scotch brite like pads for those surfaces.

92 TOY

meh...a good degreaser (purple power) and some toothbrushes should do it too.

AW1090

Sorry, I've been out on vacation for a bit, but back on it. We got back last night around nine and I got up this morning to pull the block. After talking to the wife, I decided to pull the block and take it to the machine shop. We both figured if I'm gonna go this far with it I might as well make sure everything is good plus it's not much more, around $400, to have the block gone through. They're going to hone the cylinders, clean the block, polish the crank, change the bearings, change the piston rings, install the oil pump, and replace all the seals and gaskets. I didn't think it was bad and they seem to be really good guys. They've had a ton of patience in dealing with my ocd tendencies. I highly recommend them, Rebel Rebuilders, for anyone in the area. Anyways, here are some pics.....


Block out....


empty engine bay... It doesn't look bad in there. I'm still going to try and clean it up a bit, but all in all not bad.





I got the rest of my parts in as well so I'll be updating the list shortly. I had to change things around a bit as some the parts disappeared from some of the sites I priced them from at the start of this.

92 TOY

your engine was in backwards

AW1090

What? No, This is during a pause after it broke free. It was pitching forward and back so we decided to spin it and rest the torque converter on the lip of the body there to keep it level. I pulled the converter and fly wheel off after it was out and slid them back onto the transmission. We'll probably reinstatll the engine with the flywheel there instead of trying to engine with the trans. I should've listened to you in the beginning and pulled the whole thing. Since we had most of everything off, the block came out in a couple of hours. Once I get it back from the shop, We'll put the heads, exhaust, timing belt, and anything else on that we can before reinstalling the engine.

I'm a little disappointed that I'm not pulling the block apart and doing everything myself, but I need this truck running pretty soon. I don't have the time for it to sit for six months and go through everything on my own, but I'm learning a ton. I guess that's what it's about in the end. I'm hoping this engine will last me through med. school and hopefully once it dies I'll be able to swap in a 3.4 that I've had time to go through and rebuild on my own.

I did have one question. I was looking at the exhaust and it appears the gaskets are practically welded on due to the heat. Did you guys grind them down or what? Thanks....

92 TOY

gaskets will probably just pop right out with a screwdriver.

was driving Joe's 4runner today and was kinda smirking to myself at how good this motor is.

AW1090

I hope they'll come off that easy. I'll pry on them a bit this coming weekend, but they seem like they're on there pretty good. You guys should be really proud of the work you put in on that truck. The pics I've seen of it are very impressive. It's a nice, clean runner. I hope to have a little video getting mine started along with a similar smirk once it's running.

Rhodes89

Just done it to mine and was a terrible task. But I'm doing a5vz swap and if any one wants to buy a 3.0 with half year of advance wanenty and 30k miles iv got one. Marion north carolina

AW1090

I might eventually do a swap, but I'm still learning and didn't have much time. I want to tackle that or rebuild another 3vze in the future doing everything myself while taking the time to learn everything. This is a bit of a rush job.... Post the 3.0 in the classifieds...

AW1090

Price update... I had to change some things around because after waiting for a bit some of the parts were no longer available on the previously posted sites.

Rockauto = $139.81 with shipping
Dayco timing component kit with belt - pt#95154k1 $71.79 + shipping
Aisin Water Pump - pt#WPT030 OEM#16100-69225 $49.79 + shipping

Amazon
Aisin Oil Pump - pt#OPT027 OEM#15100-65020 $72.70 + Free shipping = $72.70

1sttoyotaparts = $350.93 with shipping
Engine Gasket kit OEM#04111-65011 $289.39
Knock Sensor wire OEM#82219-35010 $10.46
Thermostat OEM#90916-03079 $19.18

Engnbldr
Head Bolts pt#HBT031 $39.00 + free shipping = $39.00

I'll update with the service costs from the machine shop once everything is done. I'll have to buy a few things that we broke while getting the engine out, but nothing very expensive. If anyone has a part number for the fuel injector connectors I could use it. I'll have to buy 2-3 of those and found no numbers on them as previously posted. Parts are at a total cost of $602.44 with shipping and I'm estimating the service cost to be somewhere between $800-$900. This should bring my total up somewhere around $1500, but I'll update with an exact cost.

92 TOY

check LC engineering. I saw a conversation about connectors and saw that mentioned. I have no clue, but may find what you need.

as far as the same smirk......don't worry....it will happen. even if it's just because you tore it down and built it back up and it runs...but you will have it.

AW1090

As far as the smirk, I'm sure it will and thanks... I'm looking forward to it. I didn't find anything on LC engineering, but I'm planning on checking back. It seems they are redoing their website so everything isn't available. I did find the website below, but need to look and figure out which plug type I need. I think it's the top slot type, but want to look to make sure.
http://connectorsfast.net/catalog/pr...products_id=15
Either way, It's a great site and wanted to include it in this thread for future reference and others.