harmonic balancer bolt
#1
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harmonic balancer bolt
i was wondering if there is an easy wasy to remove the bolt without cracking the case in front of it ... i already tryed an impact
any help would be apprecaited thanks'
its the 22re i-4
i wanna know if its left hand threads or right hand threads..it seroiuly will not move
any help would be apprecaited thanks'
its the 22re i-4
i wanna know if its left hand threads or right hand threads..it seroiuly will not move
Last edited by 86OFFROADER; 04-19-2009 at 01:56 PM.
#3
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put it in 5th gear with the e brake on, and get a huge cheater bar!
or try and bust it loose with the starter(cheater bar against frame rail, put it in neutral and bump the starter), but Ive had no luck with that method.
or try and bust it loose with the starter(cheater bar against frame rail, put it in neutral and bump the starter), but Ive had no luck with that method.
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i wouldn't recommend using the power of the engine to break it loose. too much could go wrong.
take your radiator out and you'll be able to get an impact right in there without a swivel and a bunch of extentions, they just reduce torque.
i don't know what kind of tools you have, but a wal-mart special air tool set won't do the trick.
take your radiator out and you'll be able to get an impact right in there without a swivel and a bunch of extentions, they just reduce torque.
i don't know what kind of tools you have, but a wal-mart special air tool set won't do the trick.
#5
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I've used the bar on the bolt and crank the starter method a few times with no issue. Just make sure the bar is securely pressing against the frame before spinning the engine and disconnect the coil wire from the distributor so the engine won't start.
I've also used an electric impact once or twice.
I've also used an electric impact once or twice.
Last edited by abecedarian; 04-19-2009 at 12:24 PM.
#6
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i see your point. but its not the power of the engine breaking it loose, its the power of the starter!
if you unplug the coil wire nothing would/could go wrong(unless it was operator error)
i think the op already tried the impact method.
if you unplug the coil wire nothing would/could go wrong(unless it was operator error)
i think the op already tried the impact method.
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#11
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crankshaft bolt
i even just tryed breaking it lose with a cheater bar and i broke the socket....also i was wondering what direction the bolt is suppose to turn like left hand threads or right hand
threads i need the pulley off to change the timing chain dampner
thanks
#12
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You'd turn left (counter-clockwise, standard bolt rotation) to loosen. That is why they're so hard to remove- since the normal crank rotation is to the right (clockwise) it takes a bit of torque on them to keep them from loosening naturally and that is also why the breaker bar trick can be used to loosen it.
I guess someone should've suggested using an impact socket so the socket doesn't break.
I guess someone should've suggested using an impact socket so the socket doesn't break.
Last edited by abecedarian; 04-19-2009 at 02:33 PM.
#13
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i figured he had one since he already tried an impact gun
my advice would be to put some heat on it. it don't take much though so don't go getting it glowing red.
edit.. you are using a 1/2 inch impact correct?
got a 3/4 or 1" laying around
my advice would be to put some heat on it. it don't take much though so don't go getting it glowing red.
edit.. you are using a 1/2 inch impact correct?
got a 3/4 or 1" laying around
Last edited by TOYOTA 1; 04-19-2009 at 02:52 PM.
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Hey, I'm guilty too, of not suggesting the impact socket.
And yeah, a 1/2 impact may be marginal, particularly if electric, and a 3/4 would be better suited to breaking it loose and a 1" pneumatic might break the head off if it's seized that bad.
Also, heating it up will help break any rust or whatnot loose to help let it break free more easily. Heat the head of the bolt up, but like mentioned not enough to make it glow noticibly compared to the surrounding material, then let it cool, maybe do that 2-3 times.
And yeah, a 1/2 impact may be marginal, particularly if electric, and a 3/4 would be better suited to breaking it loose and a 1" pneumatic might break the head off if it's seized that bad.
Also, heating it up will help break any rust or whatnot loose to help let it break free more easily. Heat the head of the bolt up, but like mentioned not enough to make it glow noticibly compared to the surrounding material, then let it cool, maybe do that 2-3 times.
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