stormin94

Maybe you need a new coil, or something.....

youngyota88

ok so i just did the ground thing with some wire and i didnt really notice anything. then i actually used the diagnosis port and it reads code 51. Switch Signal-IDL,NSW, or A/C signal to ECU missing With check terminals E1 and T shorted. what exactly does that mean

idanity

so you have a crank position sensor (maybe bent or dying)

mojo4x420

Code 51 for me was TPS wasn't sending idle signal ever due to some gunk in the TPS. Cleaned it out as per

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/TPS/index.shtml

longhungsilver

Hold on... was the truck working before you pulled the head??? if so its sumthing in your putting back together thats wrong.. so dont worry about tps or coolant temp sensor etc... just the stuff youve messed with..

youngyota88

ok well i narrowed it down and it looks like i am going to pull off the oil pan to time the crank and cam. i was 110 percent positive that it was correct but i am running out of ideas. has anyone ever puled off the oil pan.

youngyota88

ok well i am running out of what it could be so i am going to pull off the oil pan tomorow. i am 110 percent sure that i was dead on but like i said i am down to the last resort. has anyone ever pulled off an oilpan to a 88 toyota pickup 22re

idanity

sensors die when they get bumped, or tapped too.

not sure about the oil pan, why would you be going in there?

is there any other way to check timing? and i hope you didnt slip any teeth or anything, is that why your going in?

SCYOTA

Pulling the oil pan won't do you any good. The cover surrounds the chain so you can't really see the chain and sprocket. You don't need to pull anything but the valve cover to check your valve timing. All you have to do is set your crank at TDC (#1 cyl at top of compression stroke). The mark on the crank pulley will be at the 0 degree mark on the oil pump when your at TDC. Then set the cam sprocket mark to line up with the mark on the rocker assembly. The cam sprocket mark is at about 11:58 and the position of the cam dowel is straight up. If you do that then you will have correct valve timing. Always turn your motor over by hand a few revolutions just to make sure that you have is set right and there is no interference.

youngyota88

i already did the check that way and it still is crappy.

i have it at tdc and the pin points straight up, the off colored link is on the timing dot. i rotated the engine a couple of times and the link comes back to the proper spot on the cam sprocket. if i was off on the crank would the cam tinimg still line up every time like it does.

could this be caused by a loose chain and would a loose chain affect it this much.

i figured if i pulled off the oil pan then i would atleast be able to tell for sure weather the crank timing mark and the chain link are in appropriate spot,and see if the tensioner was working properly.

SCYOTA

If the crank pulley dot is at the 0 mark on the oil pump and the sprocket dot is at about 11:58 and then your timing is correct. Like I said before, pulling the oil pan won't help. The cover surrounds the chain so you wouldn't be able to see the dot on the crank sprocket. How is the truck running? Is it idling smooth or rough? I think that your valve timing is probably on is it runs smooth but just has no power. Did you adjust your valves to spec after the truck warmed up?

kayakken

I am having the same problem on my 89
if you figger it out shoot me a pm

It seems to run great at an idle but 2nd gear has no guts

I know its somthing ez but it eludes me

SoCal4Running

Your off a tooth on the distributor; reinstall it one tooth counter clockwise and see what happens. If that doesnt do it, from there go 2 teeth clockwise and check it there.

kayakken

I dont know if youngyota88 has tryed that i did that allready one way or the other puts it way out of line with no 1 plug wire

thx for the help thoe
ken

youngyota88

my truck idles like it better than it did before i did all of this work but if i open up the throttle body then the engine bogs down. if i open up the throttle body slowly the engine soungs more normal as i revs up slowly.

the other day i let it run to warm up. backed it out of the garage, then i put it into first gear and tried to drive it. i could barely get the truck to move foreward only at a higher rpm.

i checked the tps and when i took it off it sounded spring loaded. i put it back on so that the throttle body would grab the inners of the tps. is there a certain way to do this. the tps is brand new and when my old one went bad it still ran better even on the three cylinders i had.

could it be possible that the connection to the tps is on backwards. the valves are in spec.

what else could code 51 mean

SCYOTA

If you say that it runs nice at idle but bogs as soon as you give it throttle maybe your AFM is going bad. It seem odd that it would go out right when you pulled the head but it is possible. I would check your AFM connection and also test it to make sure it's functioning properly. If you say that your ignition timing is correct then you distributor is not off a tooth. If the distributor is off a tooth you would not even be able to get the timing remotely close to 5 degrees before TDC.

youngyota88

are the maf and the afm the same thing. if not where would it b located

Targetnut

Your truck has an Air Flow Meter (AFM) the Mass Air Flow sensor is used on later model vehicles

for some unknown reason people can't get it straight.

Your AFM has a flap door inside that moves with the incoming air and gives a voltage ouput relative to that airflow. this is what your ECM uses as one of it's main inputs (the other is RPM) to calculate the required fuel.

The AFM can cause your engine to run very rich, or very lean depending on what goes wrong with it. This would be something to check.

Inspect for a sticking or dragging flap door.

Check the output voltage, it should change in a smooth sweep with no dropouts as you move the door from closed to open.

youngyota88

i just checked everything.
the cam timing is on.
ignition timing is on.
everything is plugged in.
maf is good.
tps is good.

it still sounds like my engine is skipping when i give it throttle. i let it warm up and it ran better, not perfect but better. anyone else have ideas of what it could be that is makin it run like CRAP

kayakken

I just did about the same thing
I found that one of the clamps on the tube running from the MAF to the intake was lose

I snuged it down now it seems to run better
we will see in the long run



Ken