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Grinding In front Wheel Hub

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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 02:06 PM
  #21  
Itoyota's Avatar
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Yeah, well this isn't the bushings. I'm pretty sure the noise I'm speaking of is the brass spindle sleeve inside the steering knuckle housing the rotating CV shaft. Got to grease that still.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 02:41 PM
  #22  
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From: cookeville tn.
It's kind gross but heres what i did... I mixed some grease with oil to get a simi thick blend. jack up the wheel from frame. Then draw a straw full of it work it in between wheel hub and axle and blow it in. If it quits for a while then it is the brass bushing....
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 03:12 PM
  #23  
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From: Calgary, AB Canaduh
mine for some reason has a bit of milky stuff under the cap... it goes away,comes..
it happened right befor i did my tchain, enw cover and gaskets and now it happening again..
god damit
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 04:16 PM
  #24  
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My truck's hubs are grinding also when locked and driving in 2WD. Since I do limited 4WD will this cause any damage if I do not fix it until spring?

There does not seem to be any resolution from the above threads-- is this process just a disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble?

Thanks.
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Old Dec 21, 2008 | 07:20 PM
  #25  
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From: Longmont, CO
Originally Posted by Itoyota
Yeah, well this isn't the bushings. I'm pretty sure the noise I'm speaking of is the brass spindle sleeve inside the steering knuckle housing the rotating CV shaft. Got to grease that still.
Those are exactly the bushings we have been referring to ... the brass spindle bushing.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 02:20 AM
  #26  
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From: Ameliasburgh, On. Ca.
Originally Posted by tc
1) Yep
2) Not sure what you're referring to here. You don't need to remove the wheel bearing nuts - just the circlip on the end of the CV
3) You don't need to remove the balljoint or TRE - just jack the suspension to max compression - I find it easier if you put a jackstand under the opposite side rear so you have something to leverage against.
4) you'll need to undo the 6 bolts on the diff end of the CV. They are studs pressed in from the diff side - only the nut side will turn!
Boy am I ever glad I did the quick change CV mod - I almost forgt how much fun the original setup was...
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 08:43 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by PCE91V64x4
My truck's hubs are grinding also when locked and driving in 2WD. Since I do limited 4WD will this cause any damage if I do not fix it until spring?

There does not seem to be any resolution from the above threads-- is this process just a disassemble, clean, lube and reassemble?

Thanks.
For the brass bushings no. I just went through this with my yota. I found it easier to remover the entire spindle to replace the bushings.

http://www.mediafire.com/download.php?w3ymjwzkztf here is the manual that will make it easier for you.



about 2.5 hours of total work.

Last edited by RaginYota; Dec 23, 2008 at 08:48 AM.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 12:42 PM
  #28  
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From: Cincinnati
Did you need any special tools (SSTs as the manual calls them)?

Is this like checking the wheel bearing-- if it grinds when you turn right it is the left bushing? From inside my truck I have not been able to pinpoint which side is grinding.

By the way, what causes the grinding? Is the bushing worn? What is actually grinding (driveshaft on the knuckle)?

Thanks.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 01:45 PM
  #29  
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No, you don't need any SSTs to remove/replace the CV.

You might be able to pinpoint it, but in all likelihood if it's happening on one side, it will probably be happening on the other soon because what has happened is that you have run out of grease in the bushing and now the brass bushing is contacting the CV axle directly, making the noise.
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Old Dec 23, 2008 | 04:41 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by PCE91V64x4
Did you need any special tools (SSTs as the manual calls them)?

Thanks.
Nope I didn't need any SST's, the only thing that I do recommend is a slide hammer and a long brass punch. If you need more info, or want pictures of the slide hammer let me know. I will get a couple for you.

Laterz
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 02:51 PM
  #31  
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From: Kersey, Pennsylvania
its doing it again except its the opposite side... i never greased the bushing on the one side and it quit and now the other side is doing it... when you say the bushing do you mean replacing it or just greasing it? or both?
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 03:11 PM
  #32  
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From: INDIANA
lol I am having the same problem I had figured I was going to have to replace the seals on the lockouts and re grease the wheel bearings so I will pay close attention to this as well when I do the rest of it.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #33  
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From: Cincinnati
This turned out to be an easy fix for me. The brake pads were all but gone and they were apparently dragging on the rotors when I turned.
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Old Jan 20, 2009 | 07:01 PM
  #34  
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From: Longmont, CO
Just grease it
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 04:29 PM
  #35  
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New member here. I put MM hubs on my 94 not long ago. And Im not sure if the noise is the same as what yours sounded like. But here are my symptoms. " I know it has been awhile since this thread was tapped last" ... hubs locked / in 4wd drives normal then all of a sudden a quick low grind "almost sounds like a goose" but I have to be going at least 10 mph. if the noise is going on and I turn hard left it stops and right it get less loud. then Ill put truck in 2wd and hubs locked and the noise persists until disengaged. ? same problem ?
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 04:36 PM
  #36  
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From: INDIANA
well I got around to greasing it this weekend was going to repack the bearings but the socket tool I had did not work. after calling every place in town no one had a 2 1/8 socket.
not even SEARS they said Thursday they would have one in.

also putting silicone sealant on the cone washers is a bad idea someone previous to me owning this truck thought it would be a good idea.

grease the bushing sooner then later, the one on my truck is worn pretty good and had a decent amount of play in it after pricing the bushing locally I am going to find a junk yard steering knuckle with better bushings then buying new bushings.
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