Use my 4x4 very often in fall. Never had a problem with the manual hubs.

my 90 toyota pickup w/IFS has recently begun to grind in the front right wheel only when the hub is in the locked position. The wheels can be free and I can run the drivetrain for the 4x4 w/no ginding sound. If hubs are locked and 4x4 is/is not engaged from the tranny ... grinding sound.


Tore apart the hub this morning. One single spring was bent out of shape. Fixed the spring, replaced. Same symptoms.


HELP?!

 

Spindle bushing.

Search.

 

Well I searched ... seems irrelevent that the spindle bushing would be causing the grinding in 4x4 only locked. that bushing is supporting the spinning spindle when tranny 4x4 is engaged ... why grind only when the hub is locked?\


actually .. I guess this might be the noise ... just didn't expect a grinding sound for something that lacks teeth.

 

It's that time of year and its easy to fix.

 

yes, that brass spindle bushing is the first thing that came to my mind after reading that, and I've never even had that happen to me yet...

 

pull, clean, re-lube, see if it continues.

 

Could be a CV joint, with manual hubs they'll only turn when the hub is locked

 

well they will too if you just put the t-case in 4wd and leave the hubs unlocked, there just won't be any connection between the hubs and CVs

 

True, that's what happens when you type replies while trying to listen to your wife at the same time.
Now I have to go find out what I just agreed to do

 

alright ... well I was able to fashion that grease tool as was posted on yotatech by another user. I had some problems using it though since it would not tread on further than a few treads.... plus the steering knuckle tube that the CV slides through has two grooves in the treads. this lets the grease squeeze out instead of pushing through the tiny space between brass bushin and CV axle.

So ... it went away and came back in about a week... any insights?


BTW the cold just busted my timing cover gasket (I suspect) as I am now getting milk on my oil cap. Any way to make sure that this is the problem versus HG leak???

thanks ahead of time.

 

I believe you can get a radiator cap that has a fitting on it to pressure test the cooling system.....

 

Leakdown test should reveal where aboots the leak is...

 

same thing happened to me, with the hub and also antifreeze on my oil cap.
Lucky i caught it just in time, my PO did a horrible job with the timing cover/chain before so it was leaking from where... I think there is a wee wee bit in my oil still but il do another oil change soon. I tend to check under cap constantly now lol.

 

Sounds to me like it worked, just didn't get enough in there. I just take out the CV and do it that way...

 

I guess I'll have to be romoving more than just the lower ball joint to remove the CV then. I was hoping I would be able to weasel my way around it. So any trcks on shortening down the CV removal time.
1) Remove Hub
2) remove splindle locking nuts
3) Remove ball joints/tie rod ends?
4) Slide CV out easily grease it ... not have to do it again for a long time


About the coolant leak. I have a radiator pressure tester ... I just guess people don't understand what I'm askin. I suppose I could remove the thermostat/heat up the truck remove the valve cover ... pressurize the system and look down the timing case keeping my fingers crossed tryin to get lucky. The leak down is a tool i don't have .. Could i just use a normal compression gauge?

 

1) Yep
2) Not sure what you're referring to here. You don't need to remove the wheel bearing nuts - just the circlip on the end of the CV
3) You don't need to remove the balljoint or TRE - just jack the suspension to max compression - I find it easier if you put a jackstand under the opposite side rear so you have something to leverage against.
4) you'll need to undo the 6 bolts on the diff end of the CV. They are studs pressed in from the diff side - only the nut side will turn!

 

yeah, to remove the cv you dont need to remove that much at all

unbolt them from the flange, unbolt the shock from the control arm, get another jack and raise the lower control arm and slide it out.

 

Thanks for the tip guys, that should save me a crap ton of work.

So about the timing cover leak. I'd like to get some advice on 1 how to make sure that's the source of the leak, and secondly ... I have had the timing cover milled once already as it was warped a year ago. It's now leaking again. I suspect it to be warped again ... or just straight up leaking. So ... Should I purchase a new timing cover and just put this problem 6 ft under?

 

my 88 is doing that too, it only happens when the hubs are locked and i'm in 2wd, but the wierd part is that it only happens when i hit a bump, and it will stop when i hit a bump or come to a complete stop, it doesnt grind in 4wd tho, i have no idea what it is

 

Prob same thing eich, my cousins 93 did the same way as yours, greased bushings, prob solved