ive tried that but I still think the nut and hammer method works better. And you dont necessarily need a brass hammer either, a regular old carpenters hammer will work just as well as long as the nut is covering the threads

 

I'm gonna tackle it next month, hopefully they hold up with this storm we're supposed to get today.

 

believe me, they will be FINE

 

I know they'll be fine now just under normal driving but I'm more concerned about in the future under more extreme circumstances which is why I was thinking I should just replace them now when I'm in there and be done with it. But, if people think that's overkill, I'll gladly save my money and leave the old rusty CV's alone. That's why I asked, I just don't know what to think or do about them. They look bad, but my buddy said they were fine, so I guess I'll just ask him and get an outside opinion. i barely use 4WD anyways.

 

then leave em and save the money. If you want, you can just replace the hardware, just loosen the nuts up, get a c clamp to press the studs out But taking the hubs off would be a good idea if only to loosen up those cone washers and sticking antiseize under em for the future. can you tell i hate those things??

 

I would pay more attention to the cv boots than the surface rust The metal parts are bomber, but 20 year old rubber boots are what will fail. Of course once that happens, the grease slings out, and then dirt and water get in... that is what kills the cv joints.

The quandry then becomes whether to clean, regrease and reboot your old ones (101K miles is not that much really) before the boots blow, or go remanufactured out of ease and convenience. I agree with flashkl, your axles are probably fine, but if the boots are really 20 years old, they have to be dry and brittle and not long for this world.

 

3rd option: wait till they blow (its not like the boots break and then ten minutes later the joints disintegrate, they will hold up for the rest of the trip) then replace em with reman axles

 

X 1 Billion!

Shafts? Fine. Boots? Maybe...

One thing's fer sure. You will not find parts for a Toyota that are better than OEM.

So you get whatever you think you need, where you think you need it... But when she goes pop, or doesn't last as long don't say we didn't warn you.

I'd get shafts from a pull-a-part and reboot them fore I'd buy ??? name brands from a parts place.

 

^^Thanks, guys this is just the encouragement I needed to let it ride! Now I can focus my cash on the LCE headers.

 

good thinking

 

It's good we're all on the same page finally, I guess I just needed a little tough love so to speak!

 

Great advice given about the studs.

I removed mine with a BFH and replace with nuts and bolts. They are a biotch to install with the studs in. Conversely they are quite simple after the studs are gone.

 

Yeah, run the nuts to the end of the bolts and tap them out... I've pushed the grease cap out of a boot trying to get it over the studs... Left it alone till I could get the tools I needed, came back and somebody stole the diff... I only lost a 5:29 with a Detroit TT... :-/

Somebody drilled the holes out and replaced them all with bolts and called it a "quick change".

I had an idea to tap the flange and just grade 8 bolt the CV's to the flange but I haven't done it to find if it's strong enough to take abuse... I'd think it would be, and doing that would make for a real Quick Change!

 

easiest way to get the cone washers out are to take off all the nuts. then put them on one or 2 threads (just to keep the cone washer from flying out). Then smack the hub part of the brake caliper itself on the side (next to the cone washer). the shock will make 'em pop right out. won't damage anything, dent anything (unless you miss and hit your pretty aluminum aisin hub). a little pb works good too, soak 'em before smacking. they'll come right out

 

The cone washers are a snap to remove on the hub...there are 2 threaded holes for a 10mm bolt on the face of that hub(ypu can see them if you look) just put a bolt in the threaded holes and turn clock wise,that will pull the hub toward you and the cone washers come with it.The rear brake drums also have the same threaded holes for use if your brake shoes get stuck to the drum

Be careful when removing the studs from the stub axle it has a cv flange on the end of both axles with bearings ....hammering on those studs will damage the bearings in that flange..if you don't correctly support those flanges......the c-clamp and a torch is the way to go in my opinion