pruney81

In March I'm finally gonna go over my entire braking system and I figured I'd replace the cv axles when I'm in there cuz they are pretty rusty and I think it'll be good preventative maintenance. Should I just go with the Advance Auto cheapies for 47.99?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web..._1013303627___

Has anyone had luck with any particular brand? I know if it ain't broke don't fix it but those rusty CV's I have are making me nervous since I plan on driving to Leadville CO from Mass in a few months.


Cheers!

buckz6319

I bought brand new ones (not rebuilt) from O'Reilly's for $60.00 each, if I remember correctly

pruney81

I don't know if they have O'Reilly's here on the east coast, but I remember them from when I lived in Texas. My only experience was with one from Autozone with the lifetime warranty and I threw it in my old 95 4Runner and I remember it clicking within a month or even less maybe. That's why I asked for some suggestions.
Buckz, how are the new head gaskets treating you? I know you've been through it with that thing.

pb4ugotobed

I got new ones from CarQuest. 50 bucks after core, lifetime warranty I have manual hubs, so the only time the axles turn is when I'm goin out into the woods anyways. Really saves on the wear and tear of those cv's

MaK92-4RnR

Kragen/O'Reilly's is the same thing. Autozone is your best bet. DONT GET BRAND NEW. get remanufactured... because they're from Toyota.

buckz6319

thanks for asking about "Christine"....she is doing so so for now.....back on the road but still have the vibration that I have been chasing for the past year and half.... I would get rid of it in a heart beat if I could and probably will at some point soon I hope

I would also consider looking at rebuilding those cv's or at least one, so if you go on a trail and one breaks you will have a back up

flashkl

the cv's dont turn when youre driving in 2wd with the hubs unlocked, and even if they did, ive never seen a cv shaft rot out and break. Unless you're saying that the cv joints are rusty under the boots, dont worry about a little bit of rust on them

Junkers88

Good advice right there. NAPA does the same thing with a lifetime warranty. Break one and bring it back in for a free replacement. I would like to point out that it'd be a good time to remove the set bolts from the front diff and use bolts and nuts (grade 8 IIRC) to attach the CV's to the diff. It makes trail repairs a lot easier from what I read. I have not done this myself yet as I'm waiting on a front 4.56 with a locker in it but I will be doing the bolt swap before I put it in.

pruney81

The bolts are rusty but yeah, I don't think my truck has seen that much 4WD use at all. I guess it's just being new to east coast winters and rust I'm a little apprehensive about the rustiness of my CV's, which is probably the worst part of the truck.

flashkl

well, i guess if you got the money and it'll give you peace of mind then yeah, go for it.
I have had great luck with NAPA reman units

camo31_10.50

i blew a CV about a week or two ago, and i'm just gonna go with oreiley's or autozone cheapies..remans..should be a fun project :/ hopefully it won't take too long, i need to replace the front shocks too LOL

soo...2 new CV's (both are bad, only one is blown though..i'll post pics of the carnage LOL) and 2 new front shocks..fun fun

pruney81

^^^Please do! My CV's are currently in good shape, I just don't know how much longer Id trust the rustiness of the bolts and the shafts. Strangely, it's probably the worst part of the undercarriage. I think the PO parked the truck in his yard or something, I dunno.

Junkers88

Is it just surface rust or are they pitted? If it's just light flaking and surface rust you can treat that with Killz (turns rust to black). If they are pitted then replace them if you wheel a lot. I've never broken a CV (about to be locked front so that may change, knock on wood) and I've had my rig in some tight spots. You normally won't break one if you are easy on the throttle and don't get crossed up too badly.

GenXr

Why don't you take them to a drive line shop in your area and have them inspect them and give you their recommendation? That is their specialty. By using them you'll have a local source to rely on and you'll support your local economy.

I've used my local drive line shop a number of times on different vehicles.

pruney81

They're not pitted, just REALLY rusty, enough to concern me. Although, my mechanic buddy says their good. This was a few months ago though, before they saw snow. I'm gonna play it by ear I guess. Most likely I'm gonna replace them while I have the hubs off in March cuz it'll be easier to do it then than later no?

flashkl

yeah, you do have to take the hubs (and those dreaded cone washers) off to change the cv axles.

pruney81

Any advice on an approach to get the cone washers off?

flashkl

buy extra nuts that will fit the studs, thread em on till theyre flush with the end of the stud, hit em with a brass hammer till they come loose. Helps to hit em with pb blaster or some other penetrant for a few hours beforehand

GenXr

BAH! There's nothing wrong with your CV shafts.

I mean, if you are that paranoid about them then buy new ones, but I could think of a whole lot of other things to blow $100 bucks on. You are better off changing all your belts and hoses, replace the thermostat and changing the coolant. That would be money better spent if you are driving cross country. Your CV shafts won't matter a damn bit in 2WD.

pruney81

I've seen write-ups that say to find something to wedge in there and then tap it to get the washer out? ^^You're right, all that's been done, I just figured while I had the hubs apart it may benefit me to change out my 20 year old rusty CV axles and bolts for new ones is all. I am being a little paranoid though, you're right.