addicted56

One more.

mt_goat

If the tank had varnish then I'd be worried about all the fuel lines, filter and injectors too.

Did you say the AFM was sending a signal to the CO relay?

thook

Thanks Kirk. I know. It goes by a couple of different names depending on what computer you talk to.

gte718p

Sounds like you need a 12 volt source and a toggle switch. While not the best idea it will get you up and running.

Oh yes and I second Mr Goat. If you had varnish in the pump prepare for cascading problems. Get some seafoam in the gas. I don't think it dissolve varnish, but my machinist swears it does. For 8 bucks it can't hurt.

I've done several classic cars now. Electrical problems are a straight BEEEECH to track down. If this is going to be a wheeling rig it might be easier to grab a 12 curcuit painless wiring harness and start over.

thook

Uh....that looks like an alarm system, to me. There are several threads where people have had a problem with them not allowing the vehicle to run or start.

The other thing is when you jumped (hardwired) the FP, that should effectively bypass the COR and AFM circuits allowing the pump to run....which it did. So, even if those two circuits were buggered, the vehicle should theoretically still run regardless. I'd look in to that alarm system thingy. Maybe related to the ignition circuit. Not sure......don't know much about how alarms are wired in.

addicted56

I don't know about the AFM ""sending"" a signal or not. But I would still think the fuel pump would turn on to provide pressure before cranking anyway and it is not. I'm not thinking that is the problem.

I agree that it may be an alarm system. I just sent an e-mail asking the guy I bought it from if there was one on it and or he was aware of any electrical problems before the engine went kaput.

I had the same idea last night about running a toggle and a 12 V source but then I don't like doing hack jobs if I don't have too. I would just like to find the culprit and fix it.

mt_goat

As I understand it, the flap door on the AFM opens as the engine cranks over (engine sucks air and forces the flap door open). It then sends a signal to the fuel pump to start pumping fuel at that point.

BTW, if you don't have the intake connected to the AFM it won't open the flap as the engine cranks over and it won't start.

addicted56

Well,

It would start. It would run until the fuel pressure that was developed by jumping the pump dropped off. It would run for 2-3 seconds.

I might plug in the other intake just to see. That would be a killer if that all it was.

abecedarian

so it will die even if you leave the jumper in?

addicted56

I don't know yet but I suspect if I leave the jumper in it will run. I couldn't hold it and start the car by myself yesterday. I'm going to have a freind help me out here in a bit. I was just touching to wires together that I had stripped in order to get power to it. I was going to make a proper one but I didn't have the correct size terminals at home.

I suspect if I have him hold the power to it, it will continue to run. I will no soon enough.

mt_goat

I'd start by pulling the air filter out and with my finger push the AFM flap open (just to make sure the flap will move). I know one guy the flooded his AFM with dirty water and the flap was stuck open, that flooded his engine with gas. In your case, if the flap was stuck closed it could cause the fuel pump to stay off.

addicted56

Blown head gasket..Rebuilt 25K ago and running like a top 2 weeks ago my ARSE.

Have video will load when I get home. Will not idle either

zlathim

Having sat for so long, I would think that it would have all evaporated out by now, but I know that the 3VZE that I just did a HG replacement on smoked like crazy for at least ten minutes after it was all back together. The exhaust system still had a bunch of coolant in it, so it smoked white for quite a while.

I'm sure that you know what you are doing, but I just wanted to share that with you just in case.

addicted56

That may be a possiblity but I don't think so. It would have had to evaporated by now. I mean that car has been sitting almost 5 years. It could be a possiblity but the exhaust couldn't get that hot (withing 45 seconds) to creat that much steam. It just isn't possible.

Ohh and after all that I still can't just crank away becuase I still have no power to the freaking fuel pump.

It is one of those days where I think I'm selling every car I own except my commuter and I'm going to buy a freaking playstation and be like the rest of the lazy geeks in this world.

91 4Runner

delete post due to me being dumb

thook

Listen....you know the grey diagnostic box? You can put paper clip in there jumping the FP and B+ termiinals and not need to hold it. I drove my 4rnr like that to get it home once. This hardwires the fuel pump bypassing the circuitry.

addicted56

I doubt my manual has a diagram of that box. Do you have a diagram showing which terminal is which (and from which way you are viewing it).

I can give it a shot but it seems that the only way to get power back there is to hold power right at the switch. If it works though that would be great.

Can I drive a car that is idleing that bad and has that much white smoke comming out home....I think it would be bad for things. See video's.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uwxFvUmuh0c

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hxeOH6ejQOQ

mt_goat

Try disconnecting the exhaust system before the cat and see if the smoke is still there. Is there any coolant on the plugs?

zlathim

The last two pickups that I worked on had the pin locations marked on a sticker that was inside the box on the underside of the little lid.

addicted56

That is exactly what I planned to do today. I'm expecting the same thing though.

Also That EGR gets REALLY HOT REALLY quick. I'm guessing that is normal though.