X2^^ .... When I determined my #2 injector was frozen(right after having it serviced, grr! lol)... I tested the lot of them with a noid light, "#2 had no response with the noid light". Obviously you have NONE firing, or you might get a 'sputter', at least.... Even with 3, I would presume. I had a serious miss and we figured it out(before tearing back down) by the fact that we could literally touch the #2 Header Runner without trouble... while the other 3 were SMOKIN hot! LOL.

Not sure, but I THINK the injector connector can show 12V and then not fire, because the injector is normally pulsing with 5V(Someone can correct me, please do! lol... I'm just throwing stuff out there).... Curious if your solenoid resistor IS actually working and providing the resistance needed to allow the injectors to go to work??? Fuel pressure at the rail/CHECK. Power TO the injector connector/CHECK. Injector pulsing when engine is firing over/???? Sucks you seemingly have to pull the intake.. but to rule it out, worth it, right? But then, I would guess you'd track it back to the ECU/from the ECU? Got an angle on obtaining an ECU yet? <<< Hoping on that to rule it out, asap

 

I'd buy/borrow a fuel pressure gauge before pulling the intake... You have pressurized fuel at the rails, but how much pressure? The sock on the fuel pump could be clogged, or the fuel filter partially clogged, and not allowing enough pressure, could also be that running it out of fuel over heated the pump, and it just cant push enough fuel..

If fuel pressure is fine, then I guess you got no choice but to pull the injectors, and see whats up.

 

air lock between the filter and the motor? pull the fuel line right before it gos into the intake and turn it over and try to get ir out of there

 

I only seen .5-.5-.5-.5 - 1.5v - .5-.5-.5-.5 - 1.5 somthing like that on my digital meter alot more. I know it wasnt accurate. Theres a junk yard thats got a 1992 ecu but im not sure if it would be worth the 125 dollers because the injector plug is recieving a signal. Incase you dont see that .5 is half a volt not 5 volts.

The only time there is fuel being pumped is when the motor is turning over.

How can I tell if theres enough power getting to those injectors?
Also I done see anyway of removng fuel line before it goes into the intake its so darn close to the firewall. Remove the rubber fuel line befre it turns into metal fuel line pretty much just after the fuel filter?

 

bumped

 

I SEE THAT 'BUMP' AND RAISE YOU A 'BIG BUMP'! lol.

Hey man... sorry, I'm not TOTALLY learned on all this. Doing some research on my own thing, too, at the moment. I would THINK that, well, the Noid test would be the quickest way to verify. Problem is, most aftermarket parts stores don't carry the 'RIGHT' ones. I picked the "FORD PROBE" ones and they lit up on the ones I KNEW were working... SO, plugged it into the #2 and it lit up as well(to the connector).... BUT, when I did the bypass and had the injector included, that one was NOT pulsing.... It just would not light up, which kinda left me with "Must be stuck shut"... which it was. Problem is, "NOID" testing means pulling the intake... So, yeah, hmmmm.

I wish someone at top of the class on these would chime in....

BUMPITY/BUMP #2~! lol.

 

Here's a post I'm copy/pasting from elsewhere on here........

"Not really sure what you are trying to say here. If you measure with a voltmeter from #10 to ground and #20 to ground at the ECU with the Key on, you will measure probably a bit less than battery voltage. The ECU fires the injectors by completing the circuit to ground internally. If you have a pre mid 88 system that voltage value will be lower due to the impedence of the injector and the resistance of the solenoid resistor that is in the circuit. After mid 88 there is no solenoid resistor and the only voltage drop will be due to the impedence of the injector.

If nothing is firing, I would start my continuity checks at the EFI fuse, EFI main relay, solenoid resistor if your truck has one, and the Wiring to the ECU.

Jagman60, you say you are getting fuel pressure to the rail, but is it enough fuel pressure for the engine to start? I'd install a temporary fuel pressure gauge to see if it is within spec."

 

I KNEW my buddy Matthew(aka "THOOK") had done a thread on this.... Been a couple years... MAYBE it might help? >>>>

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...s-home-239660/

 

There is a fuel pressure regulator right?
I just talked to this mechanic and he says that the fuel pump should be running 60psi. I just took off the hose underneth the truck and It doesnt look like 60psi of fuel is comming out of the fuel line.

Its pumping a good amount of fuel but its not shooting it out under any sort of pressure.

Im charging my ipobne and will be back with a video of what I see.

 

http://s1161.photobucket.com/albums/...515_133946.mp4

THIS IS THE VIDEO OF ME TURNING OVER THE MOTOR AND A HOSE CONNTECTED JUST AFTER THE FUEL FILTER.

 

Looks like it's pumping fairly well considering no resistance of narrowing, etc. Not sure on the Fuel Pressure Regulator on a 3.0. Seems to be getting through the filter just fine. A buddy just shared with me on mine that my fuel pump should fill a quart in a minute... But mine is a 22RE, so that's probably irrelevant in this application(think the 22re is like 22-34#, not sure). Fuel pressure after the filter is what would be most telling.. And in the Factory Service Manual... it's GOT to tell the Fuel Pressure for the 3.0. Even the Haynes might tell that, not sure. Good to see it flowing, visually, but the 'technical pressure reading' is what you need to know. Not saying "a mechanic saying 60psi" is what you want is NOT what you want, lol.... BUT, need to read the pressure either way to compare to FSM, ya know?

 

Fuel pressure should be around 35 to 45psi at the fuel rail not 60psi. That fuel is dirty...... you have a major rust problem in your fuel tank.

 

its marked gas silly. Is that enough fuel flowing or not?

 

38-44psi http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1990-1995...e/fuelpump.pdf

You just need an adapter to connect a fuel pressure gauge (Actron uses a Banjo bolt with a fitting http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16173). This is a fuel-injected system, dangling a rubber hose in a mason jar won't tell you much about pressure.

Having said all that, I don't think it's fuel pressure. I think your injectors aren't opening. Do the easy stuff first: pull some plugs. Are they all dry? or wet and smell like gas? Next, listen: you can hear the injectors click when they open. Since it's noisy when you crank it, you'll need either a cheap mechanics stethoscope, or even cheaper, a piece of vacuum hose in your ear.

The ECU was full of wet sand? Oooooh. That's not good. You could use a 'noid light to look for a signal to the injectors (as mentioned, a voltmeter is not fast enough, but it is good for wire tracing).

Last, you don't need to crank the starter to test the fuel pump (in fact, that's really dangerous). The FSM link I included will tell you all about it.

 

3 Litres of water in the tank. There were a few pin holes around the fuel pump and my box was off for the winter. I sand blasted around and applied jb weld around the entire thing a couple weeks ago just before I put the box back on. Tried to move the truck and she died thought I was out of gas.

The water was sitting on the bottom and the fuel on the top.

Anyhow I bought a siphen ball pump from walmart and took out all the fuel and water into icecream buckets and seperated the gas from the water by pooring carefully until there was a thin layer of fuel floating on top of the water in the icecream bucket and repeated until there was nothing left in the gas tank.

I poored the fuel back into the tank and cracked a fuel rail line and let it go for a few revolutions. I then put the bolt back in but not tight and let it spray all over the place. I no longer saw little pools of water dancing around so I tightened the bolt up and cranked her over and she runs great.

There was water in the entire injection system for about a week. Thank god it didnt rust the injector nozzels.

 

Great news! It's more OFTEN than people think; some crazy crap like that, ya know?

 

im glad u got it running, cuz that sounded like a pain in the butt butt to figure out. I would replace the spark plugs now, after all that hard cranking with water polluted gas. just a suggestion

 

I would run a few bottles of Seafoam through it for the next several tankfuls just to be safe.

I also use a Marine version of Sta-Bil that retards/disables the ill effects of the 10% alcohol they put in all the fuel now. Every small engine I've ever had has to have the carb torn down every year to remove the "gel" that collects in the float bowl from that crap.

 

Yeah, what those guys said! ^^^ lol.

I was gonna say.... In a similar situation, a buddy had some water get into his crank case as well... We ran a quart of ATF with the oil for a few minutes, then flushed it. He did that for years with a shop he was with, because ATF traps water molecules within its self very well. I know this is a 'fuel system h20 sitch... but some COULD have made it into the crankcase, right?

Far as the fuel, the same guy I mentioned used that SAME 'Marine Sta-bil' process to ensure ALL moisture was purged from systems(after doing the obvious flushes, etc.). Curious why you re-used the gasoline.. Can't ANY petroleum product, even gas, trap h20 in its self? Either way, you got it sussed, and it's now being flushed... Cool deal.

Would it maybe, also, help to run some RXP Gas Kicker in a tank as well to 're-condition' those Injectors/system a bit?

Curious, Guys; Wouldn't some Alcohol in a 1/4 tank or so help flush it out/force water out of those stubborn lil pockets? (I know, Sta-bil and the like are safer.... Just curious)

 

I would run a touch of xylene or fuel additive in it as well to cleanse the lines from tank to injectors. Usually most of your 'octane boosters' contain enough xylene to do just such a thing.