sounds like you need one of those articulated "wobble" fittings t...
at least yours is sort of seviceable... the 3.0 one is almost impossible to work on... I ended up switching to a GM filter to make it easier...

 

You can try taking the oil filter off to get another angle at it that way. If you can't get enough leverage on the small 12mm wrench, double it up with another.....say a 13mm. Put the box end of the 12mm on the bracket bolt, hook the box end of the 13mm to the open end of the 12mm. That will give you a longer wrench = more leverage. This is where taking off the oil filter comes in handy.

 

think i got it with just the right size extension.. i cracked it i think then it started raining again maybe tommorow after work

 

I changed it by reaching through the passenger wheel well and i didn`t use any special tools for the top bolt, just a ratchet with a short extension and socket.

 

DAM I CHANGED IT now my rusty lines are leaking...
this truck is suck a money pit its not funny...
if it wasnt supposed to be my fun truck i would have burned it along time ago

does anywhere sell a complete fuel line kit??

 

are they leaking like a rusted hole in the line, or leaking where they bolt to the filter?

if it's leaking at the filter fittings, did you put all the new copper gaskets in that should have came with the new filter?

in the picture below, the yellow parts are those gaskets; they should be installed like this on BOT SIDES of the filter...



now if it is indeed leaking from a rusted hole in the line, then yes you will need a new line. might be able to get a decent one from a scrap yard, but would probably be better to get something like that from a dealer...

 

yeah new gasket and ive already patched line with high pressure rubber..the fittings dont leak got new copper gaskets!

does anyone sell complete gas line kits?

 

so the rubber portion of the line is leaking???

well, there's not a hole lot you can do to patch the lines on a fuel injected system... safe ways any way...

I mean, I've seen high pressure fuel lines cut and a double-barbed fitting used and 2 hose clamps on either end, but I WOULD NOT trust it...

I'd fork up the extra dough for the safety and peice of mind with a new hose...

 

I DONT WANT TO PATCH IT I WANT TO BUY ALL NEW LINES? got part numbers or a source.. id buy all 3.. if i could back to front

 

I have a 91' 22RE and I've changed it a few times so I know what to expect, the first time is always the worse. To prevent a yota bond fire I would suggest disconnecting your battery since your messing with fuel and the starter motor with its contacts is right next to the filter, assuming your setup is the same as mine. I use a 1/4 rathcet with an extension for the mounting bolts and also a flex open end/box gear wrench for the banjo bolts.

 

i got it off so now i can do them fast.. you must drop starter.. but now i got a leak at the rubber to metal line.. sucks cause these little trip to the parts store are brutal but you cant move forward without parts....
look like the dealer is my only option for gas lines... goggle isnt much use

 

for something like fuel lines, I would say yes, dealer...



some things you can get by with aftermarket replacements; shocks, bearings, most motor parts, etc... but if those fail because they were not designed properly to the manufacturers specs (even though they all claim to "meet or exceed OEM equipment"), most of the time they wont, how should I put it, SET YOUR TRUCK ON FIRE...

it's more of a safety thing IMHO...



just my .02

 

Special toyota tool.






















Try a junk yard, for the hose. Save some coin. gen 411 old truchs require a curtain amount of mechanical aptitude and a slightly elevated learning curve. Good luck.

 

mudpigg, your post has stumped me, lol

 

You don`t have to remove the starter to change the fuel filter.

 

its only 2 bolts and ma,kes it much easyier i find

 

Remove the passenger side wheel... then a universal joint or three. I did it while the head was pulled lol