G'day all,

Plugging away on the wife's 90 4runner SR5 - front drivers door power window... Goes down ok, but will not go up. Popped the connector to the motor, see -14.3v going up, 12.8 going down. So it's gotta be the motor right? Swap the motor out with a known good one, floorboard test before reinstalling - no change.

What would be causing the window to go down properly, but not up? Don't see any safeties/and with the power showing properly at the connector - obviously it can't be a safety/overide type switch system...

I'm stumped - anyone able to give me the magic solution?

Thanks in advance!

 

If you take the window out of it, will the motor move the arm on its own?

I just had to replace my regulator arm on my drivers window bc it had a bushing pressed onto the arm that ran in the channel to move the window up and down that had broken off. It made the motor work alot harder to get the window up, since it was fighting gravity AND increased friction. Also, throw some NON petroleum lubricant in the channels. If its not sitting straight in there, it'll wedge itself in the door and your all but screwed trying to get that thing to work properly.

Doubt that will fix your problem, but give you a couple more options as to what to look at.

Good luck and keep us posted if you find the problem.

 

Looks like the problems in the switch assembly - mechanically window operates fine (jumpered power direct to motor) when plugged into the switch assembly, close outputs power as expected, however open - only provides about 1v to the output pair that go to the motor... so now the fun is trying to find where the problem lies in this switch assembly (as none were available at pick n pull)

 

take it apart and clean up your connections, see if that does the trick.

 

^^^^ that was my problem. Just cleaned the contact points in the switch and it worked fine again.

 

Started with that way back when... Doesn't seem to have fixed the problem totally - but intermittently works after re-adjusting those two little white wires off the back that lay across the bigger bars.

Think I'm going to need to find a new switch assembly

 

It's not the wires I was talking about. You have to take the whole button and switch assembly apart. It's really easy. Then on the little metal pieces you'll probably see white corrosion. That's the problem. Just use a knife or sandpaper to scrape that off till they're bare metal again.

 

Well aware of your suggestion - long ago done... but it's not the problem - verified with voltmeter, good connection there.