They are.
TC that doesn't make any sense.
If the ADD is on, then the truck will act like an open diff in the front.
I cant see any issues with it at all.
I mean you're better off welding, then locking the ADD out, and getting manual hubs. That way you can actually disconnect it.

 

What TC means is that when the truck is in 4x4 with power being applied to the front diff the tire on the NON ADD side will have to turn at the EXACT same speed as the input to the diff.

When the diff is open it allows the tires to rotate at different speeds as long as one tire takes up the slack.

So your results will be

When in 4x4 lo or hi you will have a little torque steer and some binding while turning.

When in 4x4 lo or hi with the ADD switch off (diff connected) you will have a locked diff.

I like it and say go for it.

 

No it won't. Power will ALWAYS be going to the left front tire when in 4WD and the right will be "coasting".

That's quite a bit different than a truly open diff.

Now, if you added a twin stick to the mix, you could approximate an open diff because then essentially both sides would be "coasting" (and still have low range)

 

now that I think about it TC is right, only one side will get disconnected with the add off. since the add connection is only on the one side of the diff.

 

I dont think its going to be that big of a deal. one wheel is turning when in 4wheel anyway, this way, he just knows which wheel is turning. I say do it.

 

I definitely say do it, definitely the best "budget locker" I can think of. I'm interested in how it drives after with the left wheel "locked" all the time.

 

Thanks again. I am getting really excited about this build. I am going to move this all to a build thread, as I am doing a bunch of stuff. TC I can use 2l with the pass. side hub unlocked and the drivers locked. When the shifter is in 4l I will have 2l, and be able to lock the drivers side with the manual ADD switch on the dash. This will work for all but the most extreme trails. I will be able to get out and lock the pass. hub if I want full lock.

 

Sorry to all that are watching this thread as this will be on hold for a while. Check out my new LAND CRUISER DEISEL 5 SPEED!!!!!!!!!
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f123...pgrade-218846/

 

No, far from it...

Diffs split power, and allow the tires to rotate at different speeds... It's actually a safety feature.

The wheel that spins or breaks free 1st gets the power, right? So follow me in a turn... What's the difference in a wheel that's broke free from traction, and one that's covering more ground in a turn?


This way, he still gets to blow a joint, just one. B/c 100% of the torque is going to it, and it can't differentiate in a turn.

 

So, anyone ever get around to welding the front spider gears and using ADD as a front selectable locker? Although I currently have a lock-rite in the front my my 4runner, I've always wondered if this will work. I don't see why not as long as you have twin sticks.

What does it take to engage ADD? Can you engage it while stopped or do you have to be rolling. Anyone ever break a ADD unit while running 33s or 35s?