Front diff removal...again
04-30-2011, 03:45 PM
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Front diff removal...again
So I did some searching and came up with this advice:
But I have some questions:
Where are these CV studs? Are they the ones that go directly into the diff, or the ones that keep that bolt the axle into the "tube" that bolts directly to the diff?
And the vehicle is a 91 pickup 22re
i just did this a couple weeks ago, solo. it's much easier to swap out complete diff housings than just the guts. if you do the guts/gears, it'll need to be set up properly and the diff would have to be out anyways. as for the removal and install of diff housing, it's pretty straightforward, but afterward you'll know why shops charge so much to mess with the front diff:
-remove IFS brace if you have one - hopefully it's not welded in!
-break loose and unbolt all 12 CV studs.
-unbolt the 4 driveshaft studs and tie the driveshaft up and out of the way with a piece of string.
-although it would make things MUCH easier, do not remove the front crossmember or you risk the a-arms shifting since they will no longer be tied together.
-unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the diff up there - i suggest remove the front bolt and the passenger side ones, then put a floor jack under the diff and THEN unbolt the driver's side bolt so it doesn't come crashing down on you or your fingers, 'cuz that SOB is freakin' heavy!
-the diff has to drop at a funky angle in order to get the two side mounts to clear the lower a-arms. unfortunately it has to go back in at a funky angle which is NOT easy to do on your own.
install is pretty much the reverse, but a couple things that make it easier:
-eat your Wheaties!
-pound out the 12 CV studs from the diff housing (put a nut on the end so you don't jack up the threads) and grind off the little ridges, making them into bolts. this will make it a lot easier to go back in as well as make future CV changes easier as well.
-when installing, try to get the front bolt/mount in first by lifting the front of the diff higher than the rear, then once it's above the mount on the crossmember, bring the diff forward a tad to get the rear mounts to clear the a-arms. once the a-arms are clear, it should just seat itself nicely and you can bolt away.
-use loctite on pretty much everything.
-torque specs are in the repair manuals.
-like Jay said, extend your diff breather while you're at it. either get the proper nipple to replace the stock breather or do what i did and remove the dust cap and secure breather hose with a hose clamp to keep it on there.
unfortunately for me, i didn't use a wide enough bead of RTV (or didn't clean the mating surface well enough) to seal the diff cover on and developed a leak. not going to remove the whole thing, but just the cover this time because let me tell ya, that thing was a major pain in the rear! good luck, you'll feel like you'll need it.
-remove IFS brace if you have one - hopefully it's not welded in!
-break loose and unbolt all 12 CV studs.
-unbolt the 4 driveshaft studs and tie the driveshaft up and out of the way with a piece of string.
-although it would make things MUCH easier, do not remove the front crossmember or you risk the a-arms shifting since they will no longer be tied together.
-unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the diff up there - i suggest remove the front bolt and the passenger side ones, then put a floor jack under the diff and THEN unbolt the driver's side bolt so it doesn't come crashing down on you or your fingers, 'cuz that SOB is freakin' heavy!
-the diff has to drop at a funky angle in order to get the two side mounts to clear the lower a-arms. unfortunately it has to go back in at a funky angle which is NOT easy to do on your own.
install is pretty much the reverse, but a couple things that make it easier:
-eat your Wheaties!
-pound out the 12 CV studs from the diff housing (put a nut on the end so you don't jack up the threads) and grind off the little ridges, making them into bolts. this will make it a lot easier to go back in as well as make future CV changes easier as well.
-when installing, try to get the front bolt/mount in first by lifting the front of the diff higher than the rear, then once it's above the mount on the crossmember, bring the diff forward a tad to get the rear mounts to clear the a-arms. once the a-arms are clear, it should just seat itself nicely and you can bolt away.
-use loctite on pretty much everything.
-torque specs are in the repair manuals.
-like Jay said, extend your diff breather while you're at it. either get the proper nipple to replace the stock breather or do what i did and remove the dust cap and secure breather hose with a hose clamp to keep it on there.
unfortunately for me, i didn't use a wide enough bead of RTV (or didn't clean the mating surface well enough) to seal the diff cover on and developed a leak. not going to remove the whole thing, but just the cover this time because let me tell ya, that thing was a major pain in the rear! good luck, you'll feel like you'll need it.
Where are these CV studs? Are they the ones that go directly into the diff, or the ones that keep that bolt the axle into the "tube" that bolts directly to the diff?
And the vehicle is a 91 pickup 22re
04-30-2011, 04:10 PM
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"CV studs" as named below are the bolts that are pressed into the diff shafts and connect them to the CV shafts. The CV side has nuts. Don't turn the diff side because they are knurled and pressed into the diff side shafts.
Personally, I used this procedure with pics and it was pretty straight forward.
http://gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm
The "CV studs" can be a PITA to separate the diff shafts from the CV shafts. After out, many people either install a nut and bolt to make the next time or 'field fix' easier.
Personally, I used this procedure with pics and it was pretty straight forward.
http://gearinstalls.com/ifs.htm
The "CV studs" can be a PITA to separate the diff shafts from the CV shafts. After out, many people either install a nut and bolt to make the next time or 'field fix' easier.
04-30-2011, 04:30 PM
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I have it figured out on how to get it out. I just can't seem to get the bolts that hold the cv to the diff stub loose. These things are on there TIGHT. I am at a loss on how to remove them, even my impact gun was not breaking them loose.
And I don't think these ones are knurled, are they?
And I don't think these ones are knurled, are they?
04-30-2011, 04:35 PM
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I was doing it on the diff (bolt) side with the impact, and it broke one loose. I'm not able to get my impact in on the other side.
04-30-2011, 08:21 PM
#6
IIRC, the nuts are on the outside and the studs are on the inside (diff side). so if you're trying to wrench the hex head on the diff-side, they aren't going to budge very easily becaus they're splined/ribbed studs which aren't meant to turn once pressed in place. You need to take off the nuts (easily identified by the hole in the center of the nut where the stud threads through) and then press/hammer out the studs from the differential axle flanges to gain a litle extra room between diff and CV assembly. If you want the studs to be easily removable, grind off the splines and they become removable bolts. Or you can find new hardware to use instead. Hope this helps.
Oh yeah, the first time I removed the CV bolts I soaked them in Liquid Wrench the day before and used a cheater pipe with breaker bar to break them loose. I also had to lock the hub and put the tire on the ground to wedge it while I worked on 2 studs at a time due to the limited space. Then I'd jack the tire up, rotate to the next studs, lower tire, etc. Now I just wedge a box wrench up against something that will hold it still while I wrench the nut. Don't forget to loctite the threads when you reassemble.
Oh yeah, the first time I removed the CV bolts I soaked them in Liquid Wrench the day before and used a cheater pipe with breaker bar to break them loose. I also had to lock the hub and put the tire on the ground to wedge it while I worked on 2 studs at a time due to the limited space. Then I'd jack the tire up, rotate to the next studs, lower tire, etc. Now I just wedge a box wrench up against something that will hold it still while I wrench the nut. Don't forget to loctite the threads when you reassemble.
05-01-2011, 08:31 PM
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First time unbolting a CV from the diff stub is a pain in the arse but if you grind down the bolts next time is a breeze. In my experience I had to use a combination of impact, wrenchs, BFH and torch to loosen the bolts. My current 4runner took me a few hours to do b/c of all the rust under neither and me getting pissed off while doing it.
Good luck and highonpottery hit the nail on the head of what to do.
Good luck and highonpottery hit the nail on the head of what to do.
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05-01-2011, 09:45 PM
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I've got a hydraulic lift in my garage, so that made it a lot easier. But it wasn't too bad getting the cv bolts out. Now all I have left is my two side diff mounts and it'll be out.
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