Pint or quart of por15 probably cheaper than that pipe from a dealer
http://www.por15.com/POR-15/productinfo/1GB/

But apparently I'm a little late for that info eh

2@ off, IDL not closed, and double check the vacuum lines and plug-wire seating & order.

Does it fire at all or just spinning?

You didn't forget to take those rags out did ya

 

I think I took the rags out...

IDK what you mean by "2@ off"(?). I'll recheck the vacuum lines, never removed plug wires. And I'll also have to look at the IDL (guess I should search how to do that now Ill be home in a little bit). Thanks for the help so far guys!... (and/or gals)

 

I would double check the ground wires, timing belt cam timing, and make sure the fuel return hose and p/s vacuum hose are not reversed. I would suspect cam timing

 

I have a brand new OEM toyota knock sensor and pig tail for a 1990 3.0 i would sale for half the cost if you need it. just saying.

 

So despite the timing light showing 12 degrees advanced timing when turning the engine over, one (or both) cams could be off far enough to prevent it from starting? Sorry, I don't know a lot about the whole timing thing haha.

 

You never answered if you get any kind of ignition/firing, or if it's just cranking over.

Confirm you've checked the ground wires, and vacuum routing, please

Best thing todo is "just" pull the covers and check the cam timing. (yeah just in quotes like it's spinning open your gas cap heh)

One tooth off is 7.2 degrees, if i counted correctly.

 

Sorry I meant to answer that. Its just cranking over. No firing. Strong smell of gas coming from the exhaust after turning over.

As to the ground wires and vacuum routing everything appears to be ok, but I have to take another once over when I get the time. Ive only been able to look at the truck in passing (been really busy). I was told by a friend of mine who is a good mechanic that one tooth is 22 degrees (?). I probably will "just"(lol) pull the cover off if all of the above checks out ok. I know what you mean. It should seem like a breeze having just had everything else out already.

In the meantime Ive just been sitting at work trying to get as many ideas as possible before diving into it as internet service at home is intermittent.

 

I was also gonna pull the plugs to see if maybe theyre too saturated from fuel. Not sure if that could be a problem as well(?)

 

I've never heard of a spec for timing while cranking. But as long as the left cam is correct, timing will be correct since it drives the distributor

 

Its the fixed timing while cranking, same as diagnostics mode. Direct from the distributor pickup.

That is the distributor, IIRC about 15-16 tooth. If you didn' remove it it'll still be synced to the cam.


Ground point ED, located on the inner rear side of the passenger side valve cover. Pretty sure you didn't remove it but it may have been damaged.


Check the spark make sure its getting across the distributor, and maybe the spark "quality"(color). Could be something you didn't remove got disturbed and is just loose(Like the distributor to ECM wire).

 

The ground on the valve cover was removed bc I had to replace valve cover gaskets. Pretty sure it was ok. What grounds at that location? Any way to check without pulling it apart?

Just finished checking the timing everything is correct. I'll try to add some ground wires to the wires grounding at the valve cover. And run through the ignition system. Thanks!

 

I got it started. All we did was pull the intake off from the throttle body. Gasoline came pouring out! We dried everything as best as possible. Left the intake off and it fired right up! I'm going to assume it couldn't start because instead of air it was sucking in gas vapors (too rich). But the question is how did the throttle body and intake get loaded with gasoline?

 

CSI was stuck open, pluged into live power instead of the timer circuit, fuel pressure regulator not functioning. Thats about all i can come up with, but really I'd suspect the rags.

 

LOL. The truck runs fine now at idle but its stumbling like crazy under acceleration. The truck also had a code 51 from the start of this project so Im not entirely surprised. We checked the tps sensor and one of the tests was way out of spec (meter just reads "O.L" (overload). Guess its time for a replacement.

 

Careful. On some meters, resistance over-range is "O.L." In other words, infinite, or higher than the maximum on the range. And infinite is the correct reading for the IDL-E2 measurement with the throttle open.

Are you sure it's out of spec?

 

Or out of adjustment.

 

Did you check these?

 

That is a source I forgot. Nice catch! That'll flood it for sure.

 

I have to check again which it was but one of the four was out of spec. I should have said infinite. And the throttle open test was at infintite. The one that was out of spec read infinite and its not supposed to. Cant remember which off the top of my head.

 

I cant seem to get the meter to consistently read infinite when testing w/ the .85mm feeler gauge. I can get it to read infinite for just a split second in one spot but it wont stay. I had found instructions on how to do it on another thread and everything else seems fine except that one test for the .85mm. Is it okay to leave it close or is it crucial that it reads infinite?

On a side note I cant find any issues with the vacuum lines being crossed with any fuel return lines. Also I did a check of the afm according to the chiltons manual(or Haynes cant remember). According to the book the resistance between two of the terminals tested is out of spec. I have a friend looking into getting a hold of one to try out.