Before you get to deep into it and since you will be replacing the timing chain, I would get a 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and a 19mm socket and set it against the frame and break the crankshaft bolt loose. That is one tight bolt. Use the starter to break it loose.

 

Does anyone know the specifications for a wedge to place in the timing tensioner? My dad seems bent on it having a certain size. Thanks!

 

Many many swear words were uttered today on behalf of a snapped head bolt. The 4th bolt back on the exhaust side was so stuck, we had a 1/2 in drive breaker bar and a 15/16 wrench on the end of the breaker bar, and it sheared flush with the top of the head. Put some liquid wrench on there and freed it up, but now we have to pull the head straight up an extra 4 or so inches to clear the bolt. Pics coming!

 

My sympathies to you. I had a bolt break on my 91. Pissed me off so much I picked up a used engine at a wrecking yard instead of dealing with it.

 

We discussed buying a used or new engine. About how much did that run you? And we are going to try and extractor, hopefully that works.
Thanks, I really hope it works or else I'm going to have to drop more cash on an engine :/

 

the yard near me- indiana truck salvage or something like that in corona, cali, charged me 790 for the engine and gave me a 90 day warrantee on it if I returned my old engine.
well one thing lead to another and 90 days passed and I couldn't get the old engine back to them so the warrantee was pointless which is a good thing 'cause the engine is still running well years later. You can pm Sin91 here and ask her about how the truck's running. That's her red 2wd 91 in the front and my 88 4Runner in the back.

My decision for the used engine came from the time I had available to fix her truck. It would've actually cost nearly as much to fix her engine as it did for the used, but repairing her engine was going to take 1-2 weeks and I had days to get it drivable again 'cause I was going out of town for work and couldn't leave her stranded.

 

Alright thanks! I was hoping to not have to spend too much, but s*** happens I guess. This will be my daily driver staring september, so I'd like to get her running before then haha.

 

 

Updates have arrived, made progress today!

First i removed the egr and exhaust manifolds from the head, and lifted the head with the intent of using a hacksaw on the bolt, but it lifted off without needing to be cut. My first views of the block and now i can tell that the head gasket had blown between cylinders 3 + 4 as you can see from these pics :



As for the broken bolt, im soaking it in penatrating oil and using vice grips to give it a nice back and forth motion. So far, nothing, still stuck. I tried heating the block with a propane torch, to no avail. My buddy is going to bring over a acetylene torch to heat it enough for the bolt to break loose, but until then oil and vice grips.




Im taking my head to the machine shop tomorrow to be fixed up, leveling it out, reseating the valves, and whatever else needs to be fixed. I also managed to break the plastic timing guide, so tomorrow i will be ordering a 4 piece timing kit from engnbldr. Might as well replace my oil/water pumps while im at it.

Thanks and have a nice evening!

 

bummer.

DO use a light touch on the broken head bolt. If you manage to break it before you get it out, you've just acquired one fine Toyota-quality boat anchor. (No bolt extractor would help you then. Or now, for that matter.) Fortunately, you've always got the route abecedarian took.

 

Thanks, didnt think an extractor would help much, couldnt get it out with a head, doubt an extractor would do it either.

 

Bolt has beem freed, with a little help from a hammer and a pipe wrench! Head is in the shop, should be back sometime next week.

 

good job getting the bolt free, welcome to the joys of turning wrenches and breakin s#^*!!

 

pic of the block after being cleaned a bit, still working on getting off the stubborn gasket residue. BIG QUESTION Would it be easier to rent a picker and pull the motor to do my clutch job? as i am already about there, or to drop the tranny later on and do it the normal way? any input much appreciated



Thank and have a great day yall!

 

You're already halfway there, I would pull the block, and do a clutch, input seal on trans, and maybe rear main, too. You're sooo close, and then you know you don't have to get into it for a while..what's left holding it in now, motor mounts and tranny bolts, right? I think I would want to, but I'm good at spending other's time and money!

 

and if you're gonna pull the motor for the clutch (I would do that to) and do the rear main seal then you might as well drop the pan and redo the sealant so you don't risk developing a leak there soon after. Might as well clean and paint the block so your shiny new head won't feel outta place.

 

Haha thanks guys, yeah I'm planning on doing the clutch, rear main seal, and front input bearing on the tranny. Another bonus i thought of is with the motor out, the timing Job I have to do will be a bit easier. While pulling the head, I managed to break the plastic timing guide. I figure I'm going to order a 4 piece kit from engnbldr. Water pump, oil pump, cover, and steel guide (:

 

Yeah, all ya have to do is look thru superbleeder's engine thread, and all sorts of paint ideas come to mind!

 

What do you reccoend for cleaning the valve cover/block? I cleaned the valve cover today with acetone and brake clean, but it's still got some spots that are stained sort of. Thanks in advance (:

 

HEAD IS BACK
Two days and $260 later and my head looks like new.





New valves, guides, and seals. Springs were apparently good still. Cleaned up, leveled out (where gasket was blown was pretty warped) new cam bearings, and let me say. It looks brand new. Also got a full set of gaskets, but im going to go with oem head gasket. oh, and painted my valve cover O.D green. Ill put up some pics of that once i finish the little details. Thanks and have a great evening!