Actually, it looks like as soon as I get the title I'll be selling this truck, sadly. I just don't want to put the 2k into the motor that it needs. This is better off with someone who knows how to rebuild it themselves. I'm looking for something with more miles in not as good condition on the outside. So if anyone has a trade, otherwise it'll be up for sale in 6-8 weeks.

 

Have you tried looking for a good running used motor that you can swap in? It will be alot cheaper than buying a completely rebuilt one

 

Why don't you look into rebuilding the engine yourself? The 22re really isn't that complicated. IMO it would be worth the experience. Trucks that clean are really hard to come by. If it is just a rod knock you could pick up a short block for much less. Are you sure its a knock and not the timing chain. I knew a guy who's guides broke and the sound of the chain binding sounded similar to a knock. The 22re's are famous for that. They are a great motor though. Just some ideas to ponder. Best of luck with whatever you decide to do!

 

I really wish it was that, its extremely loud, I'm pretty sure its a spun bearing. The previous owner didn't change the oil for a year or so, and it pretty much turned to mud. I'd rather not rebuild it myself, I don't really have the know-how for that.

 

Well Poop! Yeah if it is really a hard knock you are probably looking at the lower end like you said. I really wish I was closer to you I would love to help you get it back on the road. I have been in quite a few engines and I love doing it. Best of luck to you!

 

A lot of people here with a minimal amount of experience have pulled off rebuilds of their 22RE, I'd suggest looking for 92_TOY's thread. Buried in between the pages of "are you done yet" posts is basically a step-by-step on how to do it.

 

Personally I think I would rather change the crank and rod bearings than change the timing chain/guides. For the bearings you can drop the diff, drop the oil pan and there you are. For the chain/guides you have to take off the belts, the fan, the water pump, the valve cover, the ps and alternator brackets (which are a pain to me), not to mention breaking loose the crank pulley bolt, etc etc.

It's like $55 with shipping for the bearings from engbldr.com. I would not sell a clean truck like that one b/c of a rod knock.

 

I just don't like getting an overhead cam set. I've built some previous motors and had an issue with getting my cam timed properly and everything. But I do like this idea of being able to change my rod and crank bearings through the bottom of the truck. Because if that is doable, it seems like the way to go, I can change all the bearings easily and for inexpensive and if it turns out its not the bearings, that's also good.

Can anyone confirm this?

 

And what bearings would it most likely be, rod bearings or the ones where the crank goes into the block?

 

It's a good idea to change them all, plus the kit from engbldr comes with all of them. In my case, I had a rod knock which was very noticeable at a specific RPM range. Turned out my #1 rod bearing was toast, the rest of them, including the crank bearings, looked ok but I changed them anyway. I checked the crank to make sure it wasn't scored, and it was smooth.

Are you sure it's a bearing noise? I'd hate for you to do all that work and it not get fixed.

 

Its definitely bottom end, I'm gonna do the rod bearings just to rule that out, it should only take me a weekend. But I don't think I can do the crank bearings with the motor in the car, can I? I'm just hoping that the cylinders aren't messed up from if the previous owner ran it with the knock.

Also, is it better to get OEM bearings or the ones from engnbldr?

 

Yes you can change the crank bearings with the engine in the car. You pull the caps off, one at a time, the bottom half of the bearing is in the cap, the top half you gently tap out with a thin screwdriver. As for OEM vs engnbldr, that is personal preference. OEM might be better quality, I really don't know.

 

Once I have measured my plastiguage (clearance) how do I know what bearing size to order?

 

Nice truck! wish mine had been a truck instead of a 4runner

 

i think i found the culprit

 

Nice looking truck

 

Good job man! That bearing is chewed up. Which one was that?

My problem was #1 rod bearing.

 

It was the 3rd cylinder from the front of the truck, so I'm not sure which one that is. But on the bright side, my cylinder walls look good, and my rod and piston are in good shape, as is my crank (from what I can see). So tomorrow I'm going to get a measurement on all the journals and see what size bearings I need. Anyone use different size bearings on a stock (non-ground) crank?

 

Another update; looks like my cylinder 3 crank journal is too worn to get a smaller bearing. So the motor is coming out today and getting shipped out for a bottom end rebuild. Looks like this may become a build thread, because I'm getting some new goodies in the block for some added power, but I'll keep those specs under wraps for now