turkeykiller365

So I need some help, some suggestions. About a week ago my truck started spewing rear end oil from the pinion seal. Easy to fix. But when I drove it from my house to my garage (100 yds), It quit on me. Twice. That morning I had driven it to school and it ran fine but on this one minute drive, it kept idling real rough and then quitting on me, especially when I shifted into reverse, park, neutral, or any time I let off the accelerator. Seemed like it was missing. So i changed the plugs, cap, rotor, and wires. Still wouldn't stay running. Changed the fuel filter and fixed a line that appeared to have sprung a leak. Still wouldnt run right. Messed with the distributor orientation a bit and that made it stay running but has a bogging sound at higher RPMs and had no power whatsoever on test drives. Seemed to be running rich, so we thought it might be a MAF sensor but that seems to be working okay. Tried plugging the egr valve where it goes into the back of the intake but that didn't do much. Also noticed a very hard shift when i test drove it. It didn't want to shift into seond at all (Automatic).

I know thats long but I figured I would give as much info as possible.
Its an 88 4x4 Automatic with a 22re efi.

Any suggestions? I did some searching on here and was thinking maybe vacuum modulator, or head bolts. I have no idea what to try next. Any help is greatly appreciated and I know you guys know your stuff

stanz

iTrader: (1)

I had a dirty MAF do this to me before. Wouldn't stay running, was extremely rich, died the second I tried to move in any gear. Simple cleaning fully resolved for me.

Also, bogging at higher RPMs may be a symptom of timing issues.

turkeykiller365

When your MAF was dirty, did it look dirty? Mine looks clean inside and appears to be functioning properly. By that i mean it moves freely doesn't seem gummed up. And what would cause the timing to become "off" suddenly?

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

There is no MAF on a 22re.....

turkeykiller365

Okay maybe thats not what its called. What I mean is the box with the flapper thats right on top of the air box.

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

AFM. You can read out the pins to make sure its with tolerance but I don't think that's your issue. You could read for codes

turkeykiller365

AFM MAF.. same letters lol. But yeah would a code show up on an obd1 system? I was under the impression you had to be getting a check engine light for that to work.

nothingbetter

you can get codes but not have your CEL come on.

AFM = air flow meter - MAF sensor = mass air flow sensor

First thing I would check with a rough idle all of a sudden is my vaccuum lines.