I bought two Weber carbs. First a cheap knock off that simply had a weber sticker slapped on it from webercarbsdirect (mistake on my part for buying it) and then a real made in Spain Weber from Redline. The knock off will be returned. Having the two side by side definitely highlighted the quality difference. I have installed the Redline unit and am very happy with how it is immediately performing even without extensive tuning. I ran a manual choke through the firewall and mounted it in a very convenient spot under the steering wheel where I believe a stock manual choke activator would have gone.

I removed the entire EGR system but have kept the rest of the emissions equipment for the time being. Removing just the EGR components sure does eliminate a lot of vacuum lines. I am driving around at the moment with the EGR port wide open - I am getting a block off plate asap.

I have included pictures to show what I have left and what I have capped off.

I am unsure of what to do with the hose that is attached to one of the charcoal canisters (I am holding it in one of the pictures). It was attached to the stock carb. Were unburnt gas fumes leaving the carb through this hose and into the charcoal canister or is it the other way around with fumes leaving the canister and entering the carb?

I am also a bit unclear on whether or not I should have a fuel pressure regulator between the mechanical fuel pump and the carb. I do not have one now and things seem to be ok. From what I understand the Weber only needs 3lbs psi max of fuel pressure while the mechanical pump supplies more than that.

I regularly got 26.5 mpg with my stock carb. After a bit of time I will report my new typical mpg here.

 

if you aren't having any fuel-rich issues, you may be fine without the pressure regulator. i had to use one for my DGEV 32/36 in my cj, and i set it for 0.5 psi (stock was up around 7 psi). i've run it for at least 10 years, and am happy with it in the cj. i used a holley (i believe a 804 adjustable regulator (0-4 psi).

edit - looked at my receipt, holley 12-804 low pressure regulator.

wally

 

Hey I need to buy a carb setup for my 83...is their that much of a difference with the Redline Weber? I need to order mine this week....

 

I've had a 32/36 on my 90 22R Pickup for several years now and it works great. It definitely was a less expensive alternative to the rebuild of my original stock carb. I regularly get around 24 or 25 mpg around town but I also drive fairly gently.

 

To answer your questions,
-You can cap the charcoal canister or remove it completely. It is not necessary to keep.
-Yes, you do need a fuel pressure regulator. The mechanical pump puts out around 8-12 PSI which is 2-3 times the 3.5 PSI that your Weber likes. Without a regulator, you will be force feeding fuel through the bowl and through the jets creating a rich environment, poor idle, dieseling on shut down, inconsistent acceleration and lower fuel economy.

On another note, the rest of those vacuum lines can go too. If you removed the EGR then they are all worthless for emission purposes now. The only vacuum line you need is the vacuum advance going from your distributor to your carb. All that stuff on your passenger side fender wall is vacuum switches for emissions. Just yank the hose and plug the sensors. I made a 22R desmogging thread in the Pre-84 forum that takes you through the whole process, the link is in my signature.

 

That's odd because it's running perfectly fine right now without a regulator. Though I will get one.

I will likely leave all of the present vacumn lines because it will make it easier to put all emissions stuff back on should I so choose. I would also like to use the charcoal canister. Why not. I think it goes into a port on the front of the carb. I can't quite tell if the port is capped inside though.

 

OK i took my old weber off were the mounting bolts are on it were a tight fit around i put a new 32/36 on it but the mounting holes a a bet wider why is this