Final SAS BSin
08-11-2008, 09:07 AM
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Final SAS BSin
Ordering the trail gear 4in kit and rear suspension today. any recomendations they dont list ont the site? the guy doin its a mechanic but i just wanna get all the info i can
08-11-2008, 09:13 AM
#2
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my only recomendation is take alot of pictures so we can see it go together. those kits are sweet! i wanted to do the trail gear kit for mine until i looked at shipping to alaska it would cost me almost double!!! i guess i have to wait and make it myself!
08-11-2008, 09:30 AM
#4
08-11-2008, 09:32 AM
#5
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How many SAS rigs has the fabricator done? That would be my first question.
Ask for references, pictures or maybe even to see some of the work in person before making any deals
Ask for references, pictures or maybe even to see some of the work in person before making any deals
08-11-2008, 09:40 AM
#7
I wish you luck with your SAS, but I think you are getting in way over your head just because of the questions you continue to ask.
Good luck.
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08-11-2008, 09:43 AM
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08-11-2008, 11:49 AM
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I bought and installed the same kit a year ago (4" front only). Everything is great quality so no worries there. You will need to buy some brake pads, get good ones. The axle I used had rusty backing plates, so I got backing plate eliminators. You will need to make a bracket (or reuse part of the backing plate) to hang the hard line off the caliper if you use the bp eliminators. I like the idea of the bp eliminator because of all the crap that can get caught between backing plate and the rotor.
Tack the crossmember on the frame in a couple of spots. After it is tacked on, set the truck on the ground to check the shackle angle. Remember that the springs will settle a bit. My crossmember is flush with the factory crossmember. When I originally tacked it in place according to their recommendation of 1/2 forward (I think), my shackle angle was not good. Good thing it was only tacked in a couple of spots, it wasn't hard to grind the tacks off and move it back flush. Then when all is well, finish weld it.
Buy the gussets for the end of the axle, they are cheap and worth it.
When your at the back of the truck, don't forget to make a bracket for the lspv arm (factory proportioning valve) to raise it up the same as your lift otherwise your truck will nose-dive badly.
People might tell you that the springs will settle alot after you wheel it, but in my case they have not. Maybe an inch. I drive my truck nearly every day and it has been on a bunch of wheeling trips (winter included). Perhaps a full exo and winch might bring it down a bit more.
I have only one complaint, and that is the front bumpstops. They are rock hard. You may want to look into something a bit softer or you will loosen your teeth when you hit a big bump or come off of a rock or ledge hard.
Other than that, take your time and good luck!
Tack the crossmember on the frame in a couple of spots. After it is tacked on, set the truck on the ground to check the shackle angle. Remember that the springs will settle a bit. My crossmember is flush with the factory crossmember. When I originally tacked it in place according to their recommendation of 1/2 forward (I think), my shackle angle was not good. Good thing it was only tacked in a couple of spots, it wasn't hard to grind the tacks off and move it back flush. Then when all is well, finish weld it.
Buy the gussets for the end of the axle, they are cheap and worth it.
When your at the back of the truck, don't forget to make a bracket for the lspv arm (factory proportioning valve) to raise it up the same as your lift otherwise your truck will nose-dive badly.
People might tell you that the springs will settle alot after you wheel it, but in my case they have not. Maybe an inch. I drive my truck nearly every day and it has been on a bunch of wheeling trips (winter included). Perhaps a full exo and winch might bring it down a bit more.
I have only one complaint, and that is the front bumpstops. They are rock hard. You may want to look into something a bit softer or you will loosen your teeth when you hit a big bump or come off of a rock or ledge hard.
Other than that, take your time and good luck!
08-11-2008, 11:57 AM
#10
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I bought and installed the same kit a year ago (4" front only). Everything is great quality so no worries there. You will need to buy some brake pads, get good ones. The axle I used had rusty backing plates, so I got backing plate eliminators. You will need to make a bracket (or reuse part of the backing plate) to hang the hard line off the caliper if you use the bp eliminators. I like the idea of the bp eliminator because of all the crap that can get caught between backing plate and the rotor.
Tack the crossmember on the frame in a couple of spots. After it is tacked on, set the truck on the ground to check the shackle angle. Remember that the springs will settle a bit. My crossmember is flush with the factory crossmember. When I originally tacked it in place according to their recommendation of 1/2 forward (I think), my shackle angle was not good. Good thing it was only tacked in a couple of spots, it wasn't hard to grind the tacks off and move it back flush. Then when all is well, finish weld it.
Buy the gussets for the end of the axle, they are cheap and worth it.
When your at the back of the truck, don't forget to make a bracket for the lspv arm (factory proportioning valve) to raise it up the same as your lift otherwise your truck will nose-dive badly.
People might tell you that the springs will settle alot after you wheel it, but in my case they have not. Maybe an inch. I drive my truck nearly every day and it has been on a bunch of wheeling trips (winter included). Perhaps a full exo and winch might bring it down a bit more.
I have only one complaint, and that is the front bumpstops. They are rock hard. You may want to look into something a bit softer or you will loosen your teeth when you hit a big bump or come off of a rock or ledge hard.
Other than that, take your time and good luck!
Tack the crossmember on the frame in a couple of spots. After it is tacked on, set the truck on the ground to check the shackle angle. Remember that the springs will settle a bit. My crossmember is flush with the factory crossmember. When I originally tacked it in place according to their recommendation of 1/2 forward (I think), my shackle angle was not good. Good thing it was only tacked in a couple of spots, it wasn't hard to grind the tacks off and move it back flush. Then when all is well, finish weld it.
Buy the gussets for the end of the axle, they are cheap and worth it.
When your at the back of the truck, don't forget to make a bracket for the lspv arm (factory proportioning valve) to raise it up the same as your lift otherwise your truck will nose-dive badly.
People might tell you that the springs will settle alot after you wheel it, but in my case they have not. Maybe an inch. I drive my truck nearly every day and it has been on a bunch of wheeling trips (winter included). Perhaps a full exo and winch might bring it down a bit more.
I have only one complaint, and that is the front bumpstops. They are rock hard. You may want to look into something a bit softer or you will loosen your teeth when you hit a big bump or come off of a rock or ledge hard.
Other than that, take your time and good luck!
You can also use a set of used toyota bumpstops that are much softer than the ones that come with the kit. I would also recommend using ONLY Koyo and NSK bearings in your axle (OEM) Good luck!
08-11-2008, 12:17 PM
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A few other things.
1. Bigger front diff guard. Use the included wimpy one on your rear axle.
2. Purchase 2 tools. The knuckle preload spring scale and the 54MM socket.
3. You may want to consider the Marlin H.D. inner axle seals (for the front).
I am using the included seals and have had no problems yet but my next set will be the Marlin seals. I am also using the T.G.'s bearing kit with no troubles so far. I have heard some complaints about the bearing and seal kit you get with the elimator kit, but I haven't had any troubles. Peace out.
1. Bigger front diff guard. Use the included wimpy one on your rear axle.
2. Purchase 2 tools. The knuckle preload spring scale and the 54MM socket.
3. You may want to consider the Marlin H.D. inner axle seals (for the front).
I am using the included seals and have had no problems yet but my next set will be the Marlin seals. I am also using the T.G.'s bearing kit with no troubles so far. I have heard some complaints about the bearing and seal kit you get with the elimator kit, but I haven't had any troubles. Peace out.
Last edited by SteveMcQ; 08-11-2008 at 12:19 PM.
08-11-2008, 01:23 PM
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Definitely R&R the axle while it's off the truck. Mine had the nastiest dried-out-cake-mix-like crud from 24 years worth of grease mixing in with the gear oil.
Was a huge PITA cleaning it with the truck up on the rack. It's much easier to just throw the axle in the back of a truck and take it to a car wash to powerwash it out.
Was a huge PITA cleaning it with the truck up on the rack. It's much easier to just throw the axle in the back of a truck and take it to a car wash to powerwash it out.
08-11-2008, 01:32 PM
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yeah get your front cleaned out welded everything your putting on it then have it fitted with tacks nothing more then that i got mine after it was sitting for 6 or so years outside got it home stripped it down cleaned it inside and out and then wirewheeled the whole outside to clean it up more and then painted her so she wont rust!!
i still got a lot more to do but im saving!!! and im going to go with wab fabs kits he has a few more parts that make it that much better!
i still got a lot more to do but im saving!!! and im going to go with wab fabs kits he has a few more parts that make it that much better!
08-11-2008, 01:51 PM
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no i didnt mine is grabber green so ha ha yes the green engine paint from autozone my motor front axle and rool bar plus my snorkel is all green!
08-12-2008, 04:43 AM
#18
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