Are ENGNBLDR Timing Kits still good?
#21
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Here is my thread of my 87 going back together....all engnbldr parts. I got the offroad head and rv cam as well...but you can see all the parts in pics here...
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...k-home-260142/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...k-home-260142/
#22
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FWIW everything in my rebuilt engine is engnbldr, and i had todd at engnbldr do all the machine work as well, products were top notch, service/help is second to none, 22r purrs, cant even tell the truck is running from 5 feet away. I did my rebuild last year and the provided head gasket was awesome, not a pos at all. I snapped a ring installing and todd handed me a new one at no cost. If i could do it over i would buy the EB kit again no hesitation.
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OEM is Orginal Equipment Manufacture, the parts vendor that Toyota uses for all of their parts. In most cases you cant beat their quality and you will find their parts on some domestics as well.
Denso makes plugs and wires.
Niachi makes bearings.
Aisin makes clutches and hubs.
There are a hundered other vendors and I had a list of them somewhere that I would like to find. If you know the vendor, you can find the parts on websites for a better price then Toyota and parts stores.
I am not sure what OES is.
I live in Anderson about 30 miles south of Joplin, and I work in Joplin. Not many on YT from this area. Have you been to Buddys U-pull it in Springfield? Seems like they have the best selection of Toyotas in our area. There isn't much to chose from in Joplin salvage yards and they get hit hard when they come in. Buddys looks to have some great prices. I haven't got there yet but plan on going there in two weeks when I have the time off.
Denso makes plugs and wires.
Niachi makes bearings.
Aisin makes clutches and hubs.
There are a hundered other vendors and I had a list of them somewhere that I would like to find. If you know the vendor, you can find the parts on websites for a better price then Toyota and parts stores.
I am not sure what OES is.
I live in Anderson about 30 miles south of Joplin, and I work in Joplin. Not many on YT from this area. Have you been to Buddys U-pull it in Springfield? Seems like they have the best selection of Toyotas in our area. There isn't much to chose from in Joplin salvage yards and they get hit hard when they come in. Buddys looks to have some great prices. I haven't got there yet but plan on going there in two weeks when I have the time off.
#24
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OEM is Orginal Equipment Manufacture, the parts vendor that Toyota uses for all of their parts. In most cases you cant beat their quality and you will find their parts on some domestics as well.
Denso makes plugs and wires.
Niachi makes bearings.
Aisin makes clutches and hubs.
There are a hundered other vendors and I had a list of them somewhere that I would like to find. If you know the vendor, you can find the parts on websites for a better price then Toyota and parts stores.
I am not sure what OES is.
I live in Anderson about 30 miles south of Joplin, and I work in Joplin. Not many on YT from this area. Have you been to Buddys U-pull it in Springfield? Seems like they have the best selection of Toyotas in our area. There isn't much to chose from in Joplin salvage yards and they get hit hard when they come in. Buddys looks to have some great prices. I haven't got there yet but plan on going there in two weeks when I have the time off.
Denso makes plugs and wires.
Niachi makes bearings.
Aisin makes clutches and hubs.
There are a hundered other vendors and I had a list of them somewhere that I would like to find. If you know the vendor, you can find the parts on websites for a better price then Toyota and parts stores.
I am not sure what OES is.
I live in Anderson about 30 miles south of Joplin, and I work in Joplin. Not many on YT from this area. Have you been to Buddys U-pull it in Springfield? Seems like they have the best selection of Toyotas in our area. There isn't much to chose from in Joplin salvage yards and they get hit hard when they come in. Buddys looks to have some great prices. I haven't got there yet but plan on going there in two weeks when I have the time off.
#25
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I know a guy in my area that is good on these. Jamesr84 is a member in your area and really liked his work if you are needing it up and runnig quick.
I work graveyard and my days off are Wednesday nite thru Friday nite which are some odd hours to make scheduling a little difficult. I have done several of these. It takes longer to do a headgasket/timing chain then it does to swap a motor. It isnt hard but is a slow process. You should get your head checked while it is off. Joplin 4 States Machine Shop charges $30 just to check it out. I dont go over $170 on machine work as a new head can be had for $250. Headgasket, Timing Chain, Oil pump, Water Pump, and Headbolts is what I only really get concerned with. I have rebuilt an entire motor for my 85 with all EB things and they are great. But it can be done for alot less as well.
If you are worried about getting in over your head on this top end rebuild and can work around my schedule, I could help you out. Allow a good day or so for any machine work that migh be needed and it takes a few hours to tear it down but alot longer to put one back togther. I allow a day or two on reassembly myself.
I work graveyard and my days off are Wednesday nite thru Friday nite which are some odd hours to make scheduling a little difficult. I have done several of these. It takes longer to do a headgasket/timing chain then it does to swap a motor. It isnt hard but is a slow process. You should get your head checked while it is off. Joplin 4 States Machine Shop charges $30 just to check it out. I dont go over $170 on machine work as a new head can be had for $250. Headgasket, Timing Chain, Oil pump, Water Pump, and Headbolts is what I only really get concerned with. I have rebuilt an entire motor for my 85 with all EB things and they are great. But it can be done for alot less as well.
If you are worried about getting in over your head on this top end rebuild and can work around my schedule, I could help you out. Allow a good day or so for any machine work that migh be needed and it takes a few hours to tear it down but alot longer to put one back togther. I allow a day or two on reassembly myself.
Last edited by Terrys87; 04-09-2014 at 09:59 AM.
#26
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I know a guy in my area that is good on these. Jamesr84 is a member in your area and really liked his work if you are needing it up and runnig quick.
I work graveyard and my days off are Wednesday nite thru Friday nite which are some odd hours to make scheduling a little difficult. I have done several of these. It takes longer to do a headgasket/timing chain then it does to swap a motor. It isnt hard but is a slow process. You should get your head checked while it is off. Joplin 4 States Machine Shop charges $30 just to check it out. I dont go over $170 on machine work as a new head can be had for $250. Headgasket, Timing Chain, Oil pump, Water Pump, and Headbolts is what I only really get concerned with. I have rebuilt an entire motor for my 85 with all EB things and they are great. But it can be done for alot less as well.
If you are worried about getting in over your head on this top end rebuild and can work around my schedule, I could help you out. Allow a good day or so for any machine work that migh be needed and it takes a few hours to tear it down but alot longer to put one back togther. I allow a day or two on reassembly myself.
I work graveyard and my days off are Wednesday nite thru Friday nite which are some odd hours to make scheduling a little difficult. I have done several of these. It takes longer to do a headgasket/timing chain then it does to swap a motor. It isnt hard but is a slow process. You should get your head checked while it is off. Joplin 4 States Machine Shop charges $30 just to check it out. I dont go over $170 on machine work as a new head can be had for $250. Headgasket, Timing Chain, Oil pump, Water Pump, and Headbolts is what I only really get concerned with. I have rebuilt an entire motor for my 85 with all EB things and they are great. But it can be done for alot less as well.
If you are worried about getting in over your head on this top end rebuild and can work around my schedule, I could help you out. Allow a good day or so for any machine work that migh be needed and it takes a few hours to tear it down but alot longer to put one back togther. I allow a day or two on reassembly myself.
Thank you! I appreciate the help, right now the guy I reffered to ealier Dr Yoda is offering to do the job for 450 or if I get the parts and help him do it(which I really want to do) he said we can work out a amount we both feel comfortable with, which sounded really good to me. I was thinking I buy the parts and offer him like 200? What type of machine work might I expect? I hadn't read anything about needing any done on a timing chain replacement?
P.S. I just bit the bullet and spent $221.90 at ENGNBLDR for the
4 Piece Front End Kit - Timing kit, Timing Cover, Oil & Water Pump $155.90
Top End Gasket Kit with Head Bolts $66.00
Totaled - $221.90
Still unsure about getting the OEM Head Gasket?
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If things go south with Dr Yoda(Randy) I will keep Terry in mind and in line as I can not do this alone. I am mechanicly inclined and am probably able to do it alone but I have never done anything this deep into the motor so far.
So with my parts ordered from ENGNBLDR now I am debating getting the OEM Head Gasket 1111535060 for $40 off ebay w/free shipping?
So with my parts ordered from ENGNBLDR now I am debating getting the OEM Head Gasket 1111535060 for $40 off ebay w/free shipping?
Last edited by Missouri_Dad; 04-09-2014 at 11:23 AM.
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I had never pulled apart an engine when i did mine. Its easy. You can look up instructions online but its mostly
1) remove parts to be replaced
2) install new parts
3) reassemble engine.
its easy but its easier if you remove your front bumper, grille, radiator, etc befre you do it. its much easier. My first time delving into my engine and it look like a day (with cleaning everything real good)
1) remove parts to be replaced
2) install new parts
3) reassemble engine.
its easy but its easier if you remove your front bumper, grille, radiator, etc befre you do it. its much easier. My first time delving into my engine and it look like a day (with cleaning everything real good)
#30
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I went ahead and bought the OEM Head Gasket too for the $39.44 shipped.
Had a hard time explaining buying it to my wife but she eventually read you guys posts and it help smooth things over for me.
Now all I have to do is wait for the parts to come in!
Then Dr. Yoda is going to come down with a car dolly and we are towing it to his place north of Springfield to Willard to do the repairs. I don't have all the tools or space to do it at my house.
So far I've spent $261.34
I know I still have to buy:
Water Pump Studs $4
Ultra Grey/Gray Silicone $5
Carb Cleaner $5
5 Quarts Oil $15
Oil Filter $10
Antifreeze - Toyota Red $15
Gallon Distilled Water $1
Vaseline $3
Lapping Compound $5
Belts - No PS,Air, etc. $15
Radiator Hoses - Upper & Lower $30
Possibly Repair Sleeves for Crankshaft and Harmonic Balancer? $3-9
He has spare valves we are going to use to replace the bent ones.
So approximately $108+ more to go plus what I am paying him.
Anyone see anything I am leaving out/missing?
Had a hard time explaining buying it to my wife but she eventually read you guys posts and it help smooth things over for me.
Now all I have to do is wait for the parts to come in!
Then Dr. Yoda is going to come down with a car dolly and we are towing it to his place north of Springfield to Willard to do the repairs. I don't have all the tools or space to do it at my house.
So far I've spent $261.34
I know I still have to buy:
Water Pump Studs $4
Ultra Grey/Gray Silicone $5
Carb Cleaner $5
5 Quarts Oil $15
Oil Filter $10
Antifreeze - Toyota Red $15
Gallon Distilled Water $1
Vaseline $3
Lapping Compound $5
Belts - No PS,Air, etc. $15
Radiator Hoses - Upper & Lower $30
Possibly Repair Sleeves for Crankshaft and Harmonic Balancer? $3-9
He has spare valves we are going to use to replace the bent ones.
So approximately $108+ more to go plus what I am paying him.
Anyone see anything I am leaving out/missing?
#31
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Thanks!!! I will be getting out of here later today. Plan on being in St.Louis hopefully early evening. Had to replace two tires on the 3rd gen as I ran over something. I am planning on driving Mistys runner to give it a good run. Havent had it on a long trip in a while.
#32
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The reason you should send the head to the shop is for several reasons. You cant always see cracks that can be in the head. Another is the head can get warped. If that is the case, they can "shave" the head which gets it level so that the head and block have a level fitting to each other.
If the ground wire on the back of the head to the fire wall has been disconnected, two different metals start having electrolis. The block is cast, the head is aluminum, and that causes the water ports to start eating each other up as I understand it.
Another water port issue is if antifreeze hasnt been changed is the water ports in the head corrode out. The machine shop can build them back up. I have had that done several times. I will see if I have a bad head that shows what I am talking about when it gets light out side.
You can take a metal straight edge and get an idea if the head is level, but you are dealing with thousandths of an inch and isnt easily seen.
I see you are further north and dont know Springfield or Willard Machine shops up there. I just use Joplins, the economy shut down alot of the smaller ones. The guy helping you will know where one is in his area and will have a valve spring compressor or where to rent one.
Usually the rebuild kits dont come with Injector Seal kits. You will need one for each injector about $4 each or I get mine at http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...S:3160&vxp=mtr and you get screens for about the same price as a parts store. Toyota says to lube the o rings with gasoline, dont forgt to do that when installing them into the fuel rail. I have used WD-40 as well. Just dont put them in dry as you have a chance of knicking them and having a fuel leak. I know from experince on that.
A few wire brushes come in handy for cleaning your sensors https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52044719 Here is a small example of the water jackets and corrosion I am talking about. Cleaning the sensors while having it apart is easily done. The Plenum will have alot of carbon in it. I remove the Throttle Body but do NOT mess with the Throttle Position Sensor, just leave it on the Throttle Body and clean around it.
The EGR will make a mess and probably not be working. It is easily cleaned but messyyy. Check that all ports are open and not clogged. If you want to block off the EGR, I can post a picture of how I do mine and it stops alot of the mess. While the head is off and waiting on machine shop is a good time to clean several things up. While you are doing the headgasket, I would change the fuel filter as well.
When removing your accessories, I remove " Luxuries first (ac and power steering) Necessities last (water pump and alternator)". When installing them I install the Necessities first, and make sure it is running with no leaks and such before installing Luxuries just in case there are any leaks and such. I have the Factory Service Manual and the Haynes. You probably dont have the FSM, but the Haynes does just great and is more easily obtainable. I rebuilt a motor using both manuals at the same time and nearly everything is the same in the manuals.
In my Tools,Tips, and Tricks below, I show marking the head bolts with a marker. That little tip will save you some time and trouble when installing and removing the headbolts. The manuals both say 62 foot pounds and later Toyota updated it to 65 or 68 foot pounds for the head bolts if I am correct on the numbers. Just to make you aware of it.
If the ground wire on the back of the head to the fire wall has been disconnected, two different metals start having electrolis. The block is cast, the head is aluminum, and that causes the water ports to start eating each other up as I understand it.
Another water port issue is if antifreeze hasnt been changed is the water ports in the head corrode out. The machine shop can build them back up. I have had that done several times. I will see if I have a bad head that shows what I am talking about when it gets light out side.
You can take a metal straight edge and get an idea if the head is level, but you are dealing with thousandths of an inch and isnt easily seen.
I see you are further north and dont know Springfield or Willard Machine shops up there. I just use Joplins, the economy shut down alot of the smaller ones. The guy helping you will know where one is in his area and will have a valve spring compressor or where to rent one.
Usually the rebuild kits dont come with Injector Seal kits. You will need one for each injector about $4 each or I get mine at http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...S:3160&vxp=mtr and you get screens for about the same price as a parts store. Toyota says to lube the o rings with gasoline, dont forgt to do that when installing them into the fuel rail. I have used WD-40 as well. Just dont put them in dry as you have a chance of knicking them and having a fuel leak. I know from experince on that.
A few wire brushes come in handy for cleaning your sensors https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52044719 Here is a small example of the water jackets and corrosion I am talking about. Cleaning the sensors while having it apart is easily done. The Plenum will have alot of carbon in it. I remove the Throttle Body but do NOT mess with the Throttle Position Sensor, just leave it on the Throttle Body and clean around it.
The EGR will make a mess and probably not be working. It is easily cleaned but messyyy. Check that all ports are open and not clogged. If you want to block off the EGR, I can post a picture of how I do mine and it stops alot of the mess. While the head is off and waiting on machine shop is a good time to clean several things up. While you are doing the headgasket, I would change the fuel filter as well.
When removing your accessories, I remove " Luxuries first (ac and power steering) Necessities last (water pump and alternator)". When installing them I install the Necessities first, and make sure it is running with no leaks and such before installing Luxuries just in case there are any leaks and such. I have the Factory Service Manual and the Haynes. You probably dont have the FSM, but the Haynes does just great and is more easily obtainable. I rebuilt a motor using both manuals at the same time and nearly everything is the same in the manuals.
In my Tools,Tips, and Tricks below, I show marking the head bolts with a marker. That little tip will save you some time and trouble when installing and removing the headbolts. The manuals both say 62 foot pounds and later Toyota updated it to 65 or 68 foot pounds for the head bolts if I am correct on the numbers. Just to make you aware of it.
Last edited by Terrys87; 04-10-2014 at 02:07 AM.
#33
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The reason you should send the head to the shop is for several reasons. You cant always see cracks that can be in the head. Another is the head can get warped. If that is the case, they can "shave" the head which gets it level so that the head and block have a level fitting to each other.
If the ground wire on the back of the head to the fire wall has been disconnected, two different metals start having electrolis. The block is cast, the head is aluminum, and that causes the water ports to start eating each other up as I understand it.
Another water port issue is if antifreeze hasnt been changed is the water ports in the head corrode out. The machine shop can build them back up. I have had that done several times. I will see if I have a bad head that shows what I am talking about when it gets light out side.
You can take a metal straight edge and get an idea if the head is level, but you are dealing with thousandths of an inch and isnt easily seen.
I see you are further north and dont know Springfield or Willard Machine shops up there. I just use Joplins, the economy shut down alot of the smaller ones. The guy helping you will know where one is in his area and will have a valve spring compressor or where to rent one.
Usually the rebuild kits dont come with Injector Seal kits. You will need one for each injector about $4 each or I get mine at http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...S:3160&vxp=mtr and you get screens for about the same price as a parts store. Toyota says to lube the o rings with gasoline, dont forgt to do that when installing them into the fuel rail. I have used WD-40 as well. Just dont put them in dry as you have a chance of knicking them and having a fuel leak. I know from experince on that.
A few wire brushes come in handy for cleaning your sensors https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52044719 Here is a small example of the water jackets and corrosion I am talking about. Cleaning the sensors while having it apart is easily done. The Plenum will have alot of carbon in it. I remove the Throttle Body but do NOT mess with the Throttle Position Sensor, just leave it on the Throttle Body and clean around it.
The EGR will make a mess and probably not be working. It is easily cleaned but messyyy. Check that all ports are open and not clogged. If you want to block off the EGR, I can post a picture of how I do mine and it stops alot of the mess. While the head is off and waiting on machine shop is a good time to clean several things up. While you are doing the headgasket, I would change the fuel filter as well.
If the ground wire on the back of the head to the fire wall has been disconnected, two different metals start having electrolis. The block is cast, the head is aluminum, and that causes the water ports to start eating each other up as I understand it.
Another water port issue is if antifreeze hasnt been changed is the water ports in the head corrode out. The machine shop can build them back up. I have had that done several times. I will see if I have a bad head that shows what I am talking about when it gets light out side.
You can take a metal straight edge and get an idea if the head is level, but you are dealing with thousandths of an inch and isnt easily seen.
I see you are further north and dont know Springfield or Willard Machine shops up there. I just use Joplins, the economy shut down alot of the smaller ones. The guy helping you will know where one is in his area and will have a valve spring compressor or where to rent one.
Usually the rebuild kits dont come with Injector Seal kits. You will need one for each injector about $4 each or I get mine at http://www.ebay.com/itm/270921195123...S:3160&vxp=mtr and you get screens for about the same price as a parts store. Toyota says to lube the o rings with gasoline, dont forgt to do that when installing them into the fuel rail. I have used WD-40 as well. Just dont put them in dry as you have a chance of knicking them and having a fuel leak. I know from experince on that.
A few wire brushes come in handy for cleaning your sensors https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f198...l#post52044719 Here is a small example of the water jackets and corrosion I am talking about. Cleaning the sensors while having it apart is easily done. The Plenum will have alot of carbon in it. I remove the Throttle Body but do NOT mess with the Throttle Position Sensor, just leave it on the Throttle Body and clean around it.
The EGR will make a mess and probably not be working. It is easily cleaned but messyyy. Check that all ports are open and not clogged. If you want to block off the EGR, I can post a picture of how I do mine and it stops alot of the mess. While the head is off and waiting on machine shop is a good time to clean several things up. While you are doing the headgasket, I would change the fuel filter as well.
#34
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I suggest just making sure the head is good. I have one checked and itwas just $30 and I was on my way, other times it was just a few dollars to get a few more things done. A new head can be had for $250 in worse case scenrio.
Blocking the EGR just keeps carbon out of the motor. Those that have stricter enviromental laws and have to pass emissions test have to have it operating. I have yet to see one that works in our area as they are plugged and not functioning. The benefit I see is just a cleaner running engine. If EGR is maintained like it should be, I hear in a way it helps the motor to actually run cooler, but most are unfamiliar with the EGR and it usually wont throw a code to let them know there is a problem with it.
I have probably done 10 top end rebuilds and I will say that one did blow the ring out of the piston a few months later. That motor had been sitting for 3 years and the rings were frozen to the piston and it was frozen to the cylinder walls as when I tore the motor down you could see the rust where the ring had frozen/rusted to the wall and caused it to fail in my opinion.
If I know my motor is good, I have reused my water and oil pump on a tight budget. Max I spent was $250 head,$60 for a gasket kit from my local machine shop and about $60 for a Timing Chain kit. I got less then that in my 88 runner that I am running to St. Louis in this weekend and is a 600 mile round trip. 3 years and 50k miles later it is still running great. It is losing some compression but it has 313,500 miles on the lower end of the motor and it was abused and neglected when I got it.
Steel guides are a better product, but I feel the plastic guides are just as good. Reason being is the chain has stretched or the tensioner has worn out and everything should be replaced anyways if a plastic one is borken, means the plastic has taken a beating. I am running both steel and plastic in my trucks so I am not really biased to either one.
You will see some say that if you do the head gasket that you might as well as do the bottom end as well. What they should be saying is if you do the headgasket you ought to spend another several hundred dollars doing the bottom end. I have only done 2 complete rebuilds on a 22re, I just do the top end unless the rings are just wore out. In my opinion it is cheaper to buy a motor instead of rebuilding it unless you just want to do it a little at a time. One reason I like projects over daily drivers. I have gotten 2 motors from http://www.unitedengine.com/ for $1100 if they didnt want a core and that was with shipping and tax. I know two others that have bought motors from them and were great as well.
Blocking the EGR just keeps carbon out of the motor. Those that have stricter enviromental laws and have to pass emissions test have to have it operating. I have yet to see one that works in our area as they are plugged and not functioning. The benefit I see is just a cleaner running engine. If EGR is maintained like it should be, I hear in a way it helps the motor to actually run cooler, but most are unfamiliar with the EGR and it usually wont throw a code to let them know there is a problem with it.
I have probably done 10 top end rebuilds and I will say that one did blow the ring out of the piston a few months later. That motor had been sitting for 3 years and the rings were frozen to the piston and it was frozen to the cylinder walls as when I tore the motor down you could see the rust where the ring had frozen/rusted to the wall and caused it to fail in my opinion.
If I know my motor is good, I have reused my water and oil pump on a tight budget. Max I spent was $250 head,$60 for a gasket kit from my local machine shop and about $60 for a Timing Chain kit. I got less then that in my 88 runner that I am running to St. Louis in this weekend and is a 600 mile round trip. 3 years and 50k miles later it is still running great. It is losing some compression but it has 313,500 miles on the lower end of the motor and it was abused and neglected when I got it.
Steel guides are a better product, but I feel the plastic guides are just as good. Reason being is the chain has stretched or the tensioner has worn out and everything should be replaced anyways if a plastic one is borken, means the plastic has taken a beating. I am running both steel and plastic in my trucks so I am not really biased to either one.
You will see some say that if you do the head gasket that you might as well as do the bottom end as well. What they should be saying is if you do the headgasket you ought to spend another several hundred dollars doing the bottom end. I have only done 2 complete rebuilds on a 22re, I just do the top end unless the rings are just wore out. In my opinion it is cheaper to buy a motor instead of rebuilding it unless you just want to do it a little at a time. One reason I like projects over daily drivers. I have gotten 2 motors from http://www.unitedengine.com/ for $1100 if they didnt want a core and that was with shipping and tax. I know two others that have bought motors from them and were great as well.
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Terry thanks for explaining it that way I understand and I will be checking out where to get this head checked while we have it out now! So what parts am I going to need to buy and replace on this head? The truck had no luxuries at all, no power anything and no A/C I kind of like it that way.
I saw you mention Injector Seal kits, is there a head rebuild kit of some sort.
I saw you mention Injector Seal kits, is there a head rebuild kit of some sort.
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Really not much to replace on a head unless something is bad and needs replacing. You will need to rent a valve spring compressor to replace the valve seals. Everything else will come with your gasket kit.
Cleaning is the time killer. Making sure no fluid is down in the head bolt holes. I blow them out with an air hose and use long Q-tips. Chase all of the bolts and threads making sure they thread in okay. The head and block surface are free of any oils from automotive or your oil from your hands and such.
I would suggest not separating the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe if it is not leaking. Hard to get it to seal up again from my experience.
Cleaning is the time killer. Making sure no fluid is down in the head bolt holes. I blow them out with an air hose and use long Q-tips. Chase all of the bolts and threads making sure they thread in okay. The head and block surface are free of any oils from automotive or your oil from your hands and such.
I would suggest not separating the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe if it is not leaking. Hard to get it to seal up again from my experience.
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Really not much to replace on a head unless something is bad and needs replacing. You will need to rent a valve spring compressor to replace the valve seals. Everything else will come with your gasket kit.
Cleaning is the time killer. Making sure no fluid is down in the head bolt holes. I blow them out with an air hose and use long Q-tips. Chase all of the bolts and threads making sure they thread in okay. The head and block surface are free of any oils from automotive or your oil from your hands and such.
I would suggest not separating the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe if it is not leaking. Hard to get it to seal up again from my experience.
Cleaning is the time killer. Making sure no fluid is down in the head bolt holes. I blow them out with an air hose and use long Q-tips. Chase all of the bolts and threads making sure they thread in okay. The head and block surface are free of any oils from automotive or your oil from your hands and such.
I would suggest not separating the exhaust manifold from the exhaust pipe if it is not leaking. Hard to get it to seal up again from my experience.
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I was curious and bored, see my end results for comparison.
What you were quoted:
Chain - 213
Top Gear - 55
Bottom Gear - 86
Tensioner - 122
Passenger Guide - 33
Drivers Guide - (told him I would buy elsewhere to get the steel one)
TC Cover - 358
TC Cover Gaskets - 20
Valve Cover Gasket - 24
Head Gasket - 65
Head Bolts - 10ea x 10 = 100
Water Pump w/gasket - 126
Oil Pump w/ gasket - 280
So for a total of $1482 !!!!!
OEM OSK Timing Kit - $68 (Including Shipping) (TC Gaskets, Passenger/Driver Guide Rails, Tensioner, Chain, Top/Bottom Gears)
EDIT: OEM Aisin Timing Cover - $157 Free Shipping
OEM Aisin Oil Pump w/gasket - $52 Free Shipping
OEM Aisin Water Pump w/gasket - $40 Free Shipping
EDIT: Toyota Top End Gasket Kit - $114 Plus Shipping
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...onentsID=11-03
Head Bolts (Qty. 10) - $60 Plus Shipping
vhttp://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?model=TRUCK,PICKUP&year=1993&catal ogCode=671450&VAID=2019,2029&selectConditions=%281 0=USA;1=22RE;3=T1;5=MTM;7=RCB;8=W%29&subModel=JPP-4%20WHEEL%20DRIVE&originCountry=%2810=USA%29§ionID =&componentsID=11-04
Subtotal Cost: $491
Plus Toyotapartszone Estimate Shipping: $20
If you have no Tax for Amazon or Toyotapartszone (Cali): $0
TOTAL Estimated Cost using OEM/Toyota Parts: $511. $971 less than your dealer provided estimate. (What I would have paid (but less $30 because I would have used Altrom head bolts) because I'm an OEM/Toyota parts whore )
YOUR Estimated Cost $221.90 + $4 water pump studs + $40 Toyota head gasket: $266. $245 less than ALL OEM/Toyota parts.
Then you need to factor in the other stuff you listed to complete the job (ie. coolant, fipg, oil, etc....)
What you were quoted:
Chain - 213
Top Gear - 55
Bottom Gear - 86
Tensioner - 122
Passenger Guide - 33
Drivers Guide - (told him I would buy elsewhere to get the steel one)
TC Cover - 358
TC Cover Gaskets - 20
Valve Cover Gasket - 24
Head Gasket - 65
Head Bolts - 10ea x 10 = 100
Water Pump w/gasket - 126
Oil Pump w/ gasket - 280
So for a total of $1482 !!!!!
OEM OSK Timing Kit - $68 (Including Shipping) (TC Gaskets, Passenger/Driver Guide Rails, Tensioner, Chain, Top/Bottom Gears)
http://www.amazon.com/Osk-Single-Chain-Timing-Gear/dp/B004ZKIV8E/ref=au_as_r?ie=UTF8&Make=Toyota|76&Model=Pickup|230&Year=1993|1993&carId=001&n=15684181&newCar=1&s=automotive&vehicleType=automotive
EDIT: OEM Aisin Timing Cover - $157 Free Shipping
http://www.amazon.com/Aisin-TCT-072-Timing-Chain-Assembly/dp/B00FLFGX1E/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1397603770&sr=1-1&keywords=Aisin+TCT-072
OEM Aisin Oil Pump w/gasket - $52 Free Shipping
OEM Aisin Water Pump w/gasket - $40 Free Shipping
EDIT: Toyota Top End Gasket Kit - $114 Plus Shipping
http://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_...onentsID=11-03
Head Bolts (Qty. 10) - $60 Plus Shipping
vhttp://www.toyotapartszone.com/Page_Product/PartDetail.aspx?model=TRUCK,PICKUP&year=1993&catal ogCode=671450&VAID=2019,2029&selectConditions=%281 0=USA;1=22RE;3=T1;5=MTM;7=RCB;8=W%29&subModel=JPP-4%20WHEEL%20DRIVE&originCountry=%2810=USA%29§ionID =&componentsID=11-04
Subtotal Cost: $491
Plus Toyotapartszone Estimate Shipping: $20
If you have no Tax for Amazon or Toyotapartszone (Cali): $0
TOTAL Estimated Cost using OEM/Toyota Parts: $511. $971 less than your dealer provided estimate. (What I would have paid (but less $30 because I would have used Altrom head bolts) because I'm an OEM/Toyota parts whore )
YOUR Estimated Cost $221.90 + $4 water pump studs + $40 Toyota head gasket: $266. $245 less than ALL OEM/Toyota parts.
Then you need to factor in the other stuff you listed to complete the job (ie. coolant, fipg, oil, etc....)
Last edited by Grego92; 04-16-2014 at 10:44 AM.
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Great job Grego!!! Your work wont go to waste as I am posting this into my Parts Page. I thought I was a shopper. You beat me on that, lol. I used the Aisin Lookup Tool in my link below and if you take the part number and paste it into google, Amazon beat out alot of other part suppliers.
Missouri Dad.. You being new to YT you probably dont know of Grego92 work and parts he uses. They are top notch. I have bought some off of him in the past and have always been quite impressed with what he does and his craftmanship. A great guy.
I come from the world of domestic V8s and the 22re was my first injection motor to work on. I was concerned as well on the first time. It is a very easy motor to work on think you will find why there is such a following on them. You can do the work in the engine bay but your back will thank you if you put it on an engine stand. If it is a 2 wheel drive, I just pull the tranny with it. If it is a 4 wheel drive, I just pull the motor.
Most likely the chain bound up and just did damage to the cover and not really anything else. Just have to wait and see what it looks like when you get the cover off. I wouldnt be concerned though at this time. A new timing kit will change all of that anyways. Lining it up is really easy on these. There are some tips that can be passed along when you get to that point. I take the rounded end of a screw driver handle to help lift it onto the camsprocket and back the crankshaft back just a smidgen to get it on. There is a video to put in the disributor and I have had the timing dead on before just using the video. I would feel more comfortable doing it myself then having it done as several mechanics just slap it back together. I feel the secret is just in cleaning and assembling. There have been several people with way less mechanical skills then you and got these motors running.
I personally use the starter to get the Crankshaft bolt off. It is on there tight!!! Some dont like to do that but I and a friend of mine do it that way all of the time. I had 2 different motors where an impact wrench and a 3/8th air hose wouldnt budge it. I had to take it to a mechanic that had the 1/2 air hose. I suggest doing that before doing anything to the motor. Put a six sided 19mm socket on the crankshaft bolt and put the breaker bar on the bottom side of the passenger frame snugly and bump the starter. You can find it on YT as well, several do it that way but some say other wise.
Thanks Grego92...I added to my parts page>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51652896
Missouri Dad.. You being new to YT you probably dont know of Grego92 work and parts he uses. They are top notch. I have bought some off of him in the past and have always been quite impressed with what he does and his craftmanship. A great guy.
I come from the world of domestic V8s and the 22re was my first injection motor to work on. I was concerned as well on the first time. It is a very easy motor to work on think you will find why there is such a following on them. You can do the work in the engine bay but your back will thank you if you put it on an engine stand. If it is a 2 wheel drive, I just pull the tranny with it. If it is a 4 wheel drive, I just pull the motor.
Most likely the chain bound up and just did damage to the cover and not really anything else. Just have to wait and see what it looks like when you get the cover off. I wouldnt be concerned though at this time. A new timing kit will change all of that anyways. Lining it up is really easy on these. There are some tips that can be passed along when you get to that point. I take the rounded end of a screw driver handle to help lift it onto the camsprocket and back the crankshaft back just a smidgen to get it on. There is a video to put in the disributor and I have had the timing dead on before just using the video. I would feel more comfortable doing it myself then having it done as several mechanics just slap it back together. I feel the secret is just in cleaning and assembling. There have been several people with way less mechanical skills then you and got these motors running.
I personally use the starter to get the Crankshaft bolt off. It is on there tight!!! Some dont like to do that but I and a friend of mine do it that way all of the time. I had 2 different motors where an impact wrench and a 3/8th air hose wouldnt budge it. I had to take it to a mechanic that had the 1/2 air hose. I suggest doing that before doing anything to the motor. Put a six sided 19mm socket on the crankshaft bolt and put the breaker bar on the bottom side of the passenger frame snugly and bump the starter. You can find it on YT as well, several do it that way but some say other wise.
Thanks Grego92...I added to my parts page>>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51652896
Last edited by Terrys87; 04-15-2014 at 11:06 AM.