has anyone used this head, and how did you find it? What about when combined with their 268 cam?

I'm re-building my 22RTE, and head work is involved. I'm thinking about going to a regular 22RE head for the extra "meat" over the stock head. The street RV seems to have what I'm looking for: over sized valves, and PNP. So, thoughts?

 

Ted wont sell any junk. I would highly recommend any of the 22r heads Engnbldr has to offer.

 

x2 and his heads are brand new and very high quality give them a call if your not sure what to get there very helpfull heres a link www.engnbldr.com

 

Oh, I'm certain not doubting the quality. I'm just trying to get some feed back to see if what the head provides is what I'm looking for (on more than just paper).

 

The larger valves will certainly help your application, as will the slight bump up in compression, but I've got no dyno results to back that assertion.
The .5mm over valves should be slightly unshrouded.. Depending on your long term plans for that motor, you might want to consider other work that you can do now (porting) that will match your power output goals.
If your goals are stock or just slightly more power than stock (for the 22RTE), I think a normal RV head is a great solution.

 

I have the rv head and the 270 cam. I like it alot. In retrospect i think i would of gone with the 268 cam. I did not have it ported and polished and should of had that done too. It will give you that meat your talking about. I am going to be rebuilding a couple more 22re and will be going with Teds stuff and the exact set up you are asking about.
B

 

Someone in Ted's shop - his son, I think, does full port work.. I've never seen the results, but might be worth checking into.

For the 22RTE setup, I'd look into full porting if you're thinking about going above 200hp.. below that, other mods are more cost effective.

 

The RTE head has larger combustion chambers than the RE head. So going to a RE head will raise the compression ratio. You may not want this with the turbo.

 

The 22RTE has a ~80cc combustion chamber.
The 22RE has a ~50cc combustion chamber.

The 22RTE is somewhere between 7.5-7.8:1 CR, depending on who you ask.

I haven't actually done the math, because I'd need detailed piston specs - but there have been several successful transplants of a 22RE head onto a 22RTE block.. It does bump the compression up a bit, but this is a good thing because the compression is more than low enough and we're talking abou 8psi of boost for a stock motor.

Note Tim @ DOA says there is a difference in exaust valve metalurgy between the 22RE and 22RTE (stellite). I don't know how the stock exhaust valves compare to the SS things that engnbldr sells in terms of dealing with heat, so a person might want to ask that question...

 

Note Tim @ DOA says there is a difference in exaust valve metalurgy between the 22RE and 22RTE (stellite). I don't know how the stock exhaust valves compare to the SS things that engnbldr sells in terms of dealing with heat, so a person might want to ask that question.
__________________________________________________ ____________

>>>*Stellite is actually a Cobalt based material, with upwards of 30% Chromium so it isn't a valve material, rather it is a coating that was typically applied to the valve faces. I am not sure anyone uses that process anymore.

Most import OEM's have switched to the Black Nitride style which allows for good heat resistance using much less costly steel alloy.

There are two basic alloys for performance grade stainless steel valves. The lessor grade is a 20-2N (2% Nickle) suitable for everyday use. Valves made of this material are normally from India and Israel.

A far better grade is 21-4N (4% nickle) and normally suppliers for companies like Ferrea and Manley and other high grade pieces is Eaton in South America. I am hearing that there is a recent change on that but I don't have all the information yet. We now use Eaton ourselves as a supplier. Sealed Power is also high grade, from South Africa and owned by federal Mogul.

All of the stainless valves that carry our EPN logo are 21-4N EV8 grade material, and spec to right at severe duty grade so Turbocharging or Supercharging is an acceptable use....*EB

 

Thanks for saving me the email

So while "I've got you here": how much of a port over stock does your Street RV package include?...if that makes sence

 

>>>*Well, yea, the term isn't correct but I get the idea.

My son Tod builds the StreetRV from the Topline castings only, we like those because the intake ports are already well finished and about 5cc larger than stock.

I make the cutters that Tod uses myself since they cannot be bought from any supplier. He uses those to cut certain angles on the ID of the bowls and this also increases the CC size. He then does some hand blending, leaving some area transitions sharp for obvious reasons and molding others.

Tod has it down to a science, he does around 15 of these each week.

We also have some stock Spanish made castings because the China made stuff is really price competitive, the Spanish made castings are less costly but way too much work to make a StreetRV head out of so we don't bother.

Those go out as stock replacement only, still, some folks will add an RV camshaft which helps a little.

Plus we don't get phone calls about corrosion concerns like the China made pure recycled aluminum heads do.

Those folks make them pretty, but they really do need to work on the alloys.

Without flow bench testing, something I don't completely agree with for other than comparisons (another very long article...*LOL**) we see a steady 5-6% gain with no other changes. Some folks find that awesome, some feel it is little if any gain, just different driving styles is my thoughts.

True dyno tests duplicate this and match the math, so I am confident in the results, it was duplicated over and over. I sat wadded up in a little ball on airplanes for hours several times just to see some real world results.

*I hate airplanes, besides, they won't let me drive.

Still, exhaust improvements will compliment, that has always been number one on the list of things to do to improve performance anyway.

So adding a nice RV style camshaft and a StreetRV head can result in poor net results, without the exhaust system work to take full advantage.....*EB.

 

Ive had the Street RV head and 270 RV cam for about 2 years.My bottom half is Engnbldr .020 over pistons and rings.So far really great performance & reliability on the road and off-road.My motor is set-up has some LCE parts like the rocker and arms,adjustable cam sprocket,valve cover.I have tried the LCE EFI head and EFI cam from my other 4x4 that I sold and found out from myself that I would build another Engnbldr motor again for my other truck.