levi plummer, I bought a kit from EB about 7 months ago and did my own rebuild, as usual. It has no power to hold 5th on the interstate with 33's. So I am ordering another kit next week and doing this to another motor and I will let you know how EB holds up for round 2. To OP, get the water pump and plazma gauge all the bearings, and make sure everything is clean. But EB is good on his word and with his parts.

 

I like this cam till I hydrolocked my block to bits.If you have everything prepared for a rebuilt 22re motor Engnbldr parts cant hurt your pocket and reliability.

 

Water pumps are so cheap and easy to get.

I couldn`t see doing a engine and not the water pump. Plus the fuel filter.

I have used Rock gaskets on several engines with no problems .

I torque the headbolts to 65 footpounds I have seen them torqued to factory specs and coolant just pour out.

I run 235-75 15 tires and don`t have any problems going 65/70 mph on the flat but I feel it in the hills pure stock engine just well maintained

 

Just curious, Levi... I'm running 31's not 33's, but still, I can do 90 on the highway with only a few mods. Is it possible that maybe the clearance wasn't 'JUST SO', when you had Tod speak to your block man?(or is it just the build kit, not the head from him, etc.?)What cam are you running? Maybe you could try the 261 CAM on this other motor, without street RV head, etc., ...just the cam, and see if it gives that one a bit more on the highway... then swap out another cam on the other motor to a 261? Just thinking out loud... not even sure exactly what you're doing.(it's a different rig you're doing that kit on this up and coming time?...your rig?)

 

Hey ChefYota4x4, not sure if your referring to me or Levi, but I did all the measurements myself on that block and everything. The only thing I can think of is the rings not seating, or just not lasting for some reason. haven't had a problem with gaskets, and even reused ( dont try this at home) the head gasket after checking the pistons one time, and it held till I got the new head back from the shop for it. Going back to a stock cam in this next engine I'm doing. Not sure where the power is going. Just had a friend order the exact kit I did and he has the same set up I do besides the lift, and he walks all over me. So I have no idea. Yea its going into the same truck.

 

Hmmmm, that's curious, man! Yeah, was referring to you, Levi. And, well, I'm no expert on anything, ....just throwing things out that might stick, ya know? I've learned a lot in a short time, but I'm not machinist, like yourself, lol. Hope you find it's mojo, man! lol. My story above? TRUE! I swapped in a 261 CAm when I found my machinist had screwed me over and put in the original cam with a TERRIBLE grind, if any at all.... I Didn't pull the head, just strapped it down and left the hidden bolt in... slapped it all back together with the 261, luckily with lifter faces still in good shape after 1000 miles... and it REALLY made a very NOTICEABLE difference in power, Levi. Not really on the high speeds, .....as much as the getting up the hills, etc.

Wonder what's up with your rig, Levi.....Hope you figure it out. Even my stock 86 with 33x12.50's did 80mph. Must be something wrong, right? Maybe EFI or Dizzy/ignit. related?

 

see that is why I am not the best to ask about this cam, because I know this motor is not dialed in to where it should be and I do not want to dog this cam in any way. If anyone wants to send me an LCE cam gear that I can permanently borrow, I can probably dial this cam in and give a better estimate if I like this 268 or not. lol.

All I know this thing screams past 2500-3000 RPM up til maybe 4200-4500. And no problem on the highway with 31's and 4:10 doing 80 an the flat. 70 MPH up small hills without shifting out of 5th is a little tough though.

I still get 20-25mpg. And my compression and leakdown are prefect. 170 psi across the board.

 

Well hear is the next question I just rememberd. We put the engine all back together torques the head down and coolant poored over the sides.. We took it all apart and found the head to be untrue. When we pulled the head we made sure to wire the timing chain securely to the top gear so that we wouldn't lose our timing... What are the chances that maybe the chain moved a tooth on the crank gear? It idles preaty normal.. (we are still working the bugs out).. And we did this rebuild at my tech school (my instuctor has built many engines and worked at a gm dealership untill he retired) (his nickname is gm Jesus) but anyways do you think maybe this could cause it? It idles normal and it backfires when you get out of it which I suspected was normal with no muffler or anything but if you try to maintain speed after that Or just barely put your foot on the gas it misses and jerks and carrys on like something off....

Sorry to be soo long about this I'm just trying to give you all the details for the best response.. Thanks guys!

 

 

My bad, .....did I feed that, B? lol. OOPS, ....sorry, lol..... Anyway, I meant to say "YEAH, I was referring to you, toyotabull", not levi... But I look forward to both you guys starting a thread.

Sorry Sebastian... back to YOU! lol... Did you decide whatcha gonna do for sure?

 

>>>*K....I kind of want to know what is happening here, your description is not normal.

But I have heard it before.

Lift the valve cover, bring the engine up to top dead center. Take a look at the timing tooth with the little dimple on it, it is the tooth just slightly left of the top gear cam alignment pin.

If the tooth is BETWEEN the links, your cam timing is off. Correct is bottom dot straight down, top mark just barely left of 12 O'clock, the tooth will center on the side plates.

The symptom of that is poor low end, poor top end, spitting and popping issues with fair right in the middle RPM power but a very narrow powerband. Then we also hear about the check engine light issue, too.

Easy to do, did it myself once way back and spent about four days pulling my hair and cussing...*LOL**.

She will sort of idle OK but the ignition timing will be off at the best setting. One common warning sign of the timing chain off is the inability to properly time the engine.

A seriously surfaced head can have an effect also, but you really have to whack a lot off for it to be very detrimental. At around .025" or more odd running issues can crop up....*EB

Of course, if the TPS is out of specs, that is the foundation so it could be that simple.

 

didnt go with the Eb kit due to low funds. bought rebuild from ebay, its quality i know someone who has used it twice before, and got an aisin clutch from ebay for 88 bucks! if i still have the cash left once we are ready to swap the motors im gonna get the 261 from EB. ill post some pics of all my goodies later
oh and ill try and get some as we build, but theyll be phone pics, sorry

 

Having to use a Kit twice doesn't sound too good, I hope it was on two different motors..

 

yea it was on two motors, one went in his crawler buggy, the other in an 84 he built and sold

 

I rebuilt my 95 22re with all EB parts and a 261 cam. I do a lot of around town driving and a lot of highway use crusing at 60-65.

I advanced the timing a hair by 2 degrees, and coupled with no EGR and 93 octane gas she really picks up and goes.

I have about 1200 miles on the rebuild now and she has consumed 0 oil, and nothing is leaking. I went all out soup to nuts, the engine parts only cost me $230.

 

finished pulling the old engine today and will be preparing and maybe dropping in the new one tomorow. eveyrthing is looking good. oh yeah, there were 6 fins left on my clutch and 2 nickel sized holes in the top of my bell housing! oh and a whole timing guide in the oil pan!! isnt that wonderful!!!