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Engine swap issues....

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Old 03-03-2014, 09:55 AM
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Engine swap issues....

I am in the process of rebuilding a 4.3 vortec from a 96 blazer to put into my 87 4runner. I got my bellhousing adapter and oil pan from NWOR. I went to put the oil pan on and it will not match up. Called NWOR and they informed me that since my 4.3 has an aluminum oil pan, there is nothing that can be done because the transmission bolts to the aluminum oil pan...

I already have $1500 in the rebuild and am really bummed by this news. Is there anyway that I can make this work? Is there a way to fab a steel oil pan or have the aluminum pan modified? Can I remove the IFS and drive the 4runner as a 2wd and use the stock oil pan?

Any advise/info would be greatly appreciated.

Shad
Old 03-03-2014, 11:53 AM
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That sucks. I think your best bet will be to find a good block that will work and swap all your new parts into it if possible.
Old 03-03-2014, 12:02 PM
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Are you running the IFS or SAS?? The SAS dont care what oil pan your running.
Old 03-03-2014, 12:12 PM
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IFS. I am going to use this more of a daily driver/toy. I don't do much off roading. So, the IFS would be more suited for that....
Old 03-03-2014, 12:20 PM
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Red face

Kinda hard to say anything when you just say it won`t match up

Do you have any pictures there is always a way to make things work .

You just might not like the price

Just what won`t match up where.

What about using the Blazer Transmission Which you most likely don`t have??

Sell the Chevy Engine and put a 3.4 in.

Just some ideas.
Old 03-03-2014, 12:35 PM
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The Oil Pan that I got from NWOR will not bolt up to the block. I can use the aluminum pan, but it will hit the front differential and the axles; that's why I was wanting to use the modified oil pan from NWOR.

I just sold the 4L60e two days ago...I really wanted to keep the 5 speed that is in the 4runner..

From my research, the tranny mount holes are still the same on the blocks.

Can I remove the front cv axles and front differential and just run the truck as a 2wd?

I do agree that if there is a will, there is a way...
Old 03-03-2014, 02:39 PM
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Red face

I have to think on this a little.

Get under a truck and think .

I think you could .

Make it look just like a 2WD truck just build a extra crossmember to support where differential was since that was were your stock pan hit.

Is there any way to make the pan from NWOR work ??

Can your original oil pan be modified to clear the differential and does that effect just where the sump goes??
Old 03-03-2014, 04:30 PM
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I'm trying to get some pics uploaded...any tips?
Attached Thumbnails Engine swap issues....-image.jpg  
Old 03-03-2014, 04:32 PM
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another pic
Attached Thumbnails Engine swap issues....-image.jpg  
Old 03-03-2014, 04:37 PM
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So will the modded (black) pan physically fit and bolt on? Or do the bolts holes not line up and allow it to be sealed up?

Because if it fits and bolts up, I would use it and forget all the additional bracing that is seen on the aluminum pan.
Old 03-03-2014, 04:47 PM
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The bolt holes do not line up...and the oil pan gasket is an odd, squiggly gasket that fits in a recessed groove in the aluminum oil pan. I wonder if I could drill new holes to match the block? But, what would I use for an oil pan gasket?
Old 03-03-2014, 05:06 PM
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You could use Permatex Ultra Black. It oil resistant and is much better than regular RTV silicone. I used it on my 3RZ pan because it calls for FIPG from Toyota, which is essentially Ultra type silicone. Not a single drop has leaked in 75K miles since I did the swap.

But make sure drilling is a option. That would suck to ruin a pan and it ultimately not work. And make sure you would have plenty of pan for a bolt/washer to hold well. You don't want to have a bolt hole on the edge of the pan.
Old 03-03-2014, 05:11 PM
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The black oil pan you bought with the adapter is from NWOR? I am not aware of any block changes concerning oil pans throughout the years. If you can weld/fab any oil pan can work for the swap.

Last edited by JasonYota; 03-03-2014 at 05:12 PM.
Old 03-03-2014, 05:59 PM
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The bolt holes are centered from the edge. They are just off either to the left or to the right.

The blocks changed in 96.
Old 03-03-2014, 06:32 PM
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I would just drill some new holes. I might would even elongate the holes a little bit to make bolting it up easier. If you use a permatex gasket sealer then it will hold just fine.
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