rockthepouch

Here is an issue on my 1991 Toyota 4Runner V6 3vze SR5 Automatic

FWIW I have scoured the forums on this subject. I still can't figure out why my truck won't run properly after a full rebuild.

Everything done to spec per the FSM.


I can only get the truck to start and run with the terminal for the fuel pump jumped on the diagnostic port. As a result of the well oiled rebuild it will idle and then start burning oil off and sometimes dies. I have cleaned the plugs and reinstalled.

New fuel filter
All vacuum lines in tact and like new condition
Deleted EGR & Reed Valve (not illegal in my area)


The problem is that (besides having to jump terminals) when I give it gas it dies....

I do have one broken vacuum line on the light blue colored sensor on the back of the manifold...

My buddy said my ecu could be bad?

I am not a car idiot by any means just new to Toyota after always owning Audi.

thanks in advance if anyone can give me any advise/experience

Inferno451

I know on the 22re, the fuel pump won't kick on unless the VAFM signals that it's open. It's a safety mechanism so if you crash and your engine stops running the fuel won't keep pumping out. Make sure the pipe from the VAFM to the throttle body is nice and tight, and fix all the vacuum leaks. Double check all electrical connections to make absolutely sure you didn't forget anything. Good luck!

93toyrunner2

X2 ^
Do you have any codes? This can lead you in the right direction to get you started on what is wrong.
Suggestions:
Check your Circuit Opening Relay - info here in online FSM
The broken blue vacuum sensor connects the charcoal canister to the throttle body. If you can not fix it immediately, follow the vacuum line to the TB, and plug it there.
When you have it running, spray carb cleaner or similar all over the vacuum lines area, listening for the engine to surge a little, indicating vacuum leaks.
Check the air intake system from the Air flow Meter to the Throttle Body for cracks. Usually the hose connected to the throttle body cracks on the bottom where you can not see it, and lets in too much air. Autozone auto parts has this for $35.
Use the FSM & use your multi meter to diagnose the MFI system.

93toyrunner2

Also, if you add your location to your signature, there may just be another Yota Head in your area that can come and assist you with this!

rockthepouch

I was originally getting codes 3 & 4 but not anymore.

I have sprayed carb fluid and nothing gets sucked in or so I can't hear or see any changes.

I will check the intake tube and the Circuit Opening Relay.

Thank you guys. I will let you know what happens.

In the meantime here are some pics of my rebuild job and most importantly head porting, gasket matching, port matching. I figured I may as wel do it and the lower intake really has some excessive metal to be removed especially on cylinders 1 & 6...

Gasket matching heads:


There were literally rats living in the lower intake valley. I thought about installing some chicken type wire on the front and back of the lower intake valley opening to avoid this but never got around to it...

Lower intake to upper intake gasket match.

I am hoping that I should get some decent gains out of having done this. I also deburred and lightly ported the intake and exhaust sides of the heads but kept the intake side rough while polishing the exhaust side.

rockthepouch

I am in Colorado near Vail