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Engine builder 268 eBay cam?

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Old 11-02-2010, 06:24 PM
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Engine builder 268 eBay cam?

Hey guys I bout my Toyota recently with a rod knocking and two burnt valves. I did a full rebuild on it and we are having some trouble out of it. The idle is unpredictable in it unless it has been idleing for a while. And it sounds like it has a huge cam in it. But hear is where I have problems. If we set the timing with a timing light I have to pull the distributor out and retard the timing a notch on the distributor and it will idle smooth as silk but It won't accelerate in third gear it runs so weak and the more gas pedal you give it the more it falls on it's face like it's flooding out? Is there a chance that the cam is one notch out of time? We had it all put together and started filling the radiator and the head gasket was leaking so we took it apart (this is where I think the chain may have slipped a tooth on the crank gear) and it now runs decent. For a 4cyl with 31x10.50's but I steal am wondering if this is right. I don't want to do any carniage to my motor though. It's a 94 22re too it has about 200 miles on the full rebuild. And the only
mods are a header and the cam. But it also has oxygen sensor problems ( I can't get it out of the header because it doesn't read like it should and it's seized in. )
Old 11-02-2010, 06:32 PM
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Sounds like some thing must be off a tooth.
Old 11-03-2010, 06:04 AM
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Originally Posted by razed
cams on 22re's can cause problems. like carb'd engines that might need re-jetted for a cam, the 22re efi might need a tweak or two to get it running right. it's not something easily explained so maybe soemone will post in here.
but we do need to know if the head was milled and do you have an adjustable cam gear / sprocket that might need dialed in.

also, you should set your valves, timing and idle all with the engine warmed up completely.
this is somewhat true for carbed engines, however unless your adding forced induction to a 22re in the ways of a supercharger or turbo, there is nothing you can add to the 22re power wise whether it be, headers, cam, intakes that will take the fuel requirement out of bounds of what the ECU can change.

To me since he said the o2 sensor is bad, this is where most of the problem lies. a bad o2 sensor can wreak havok on alot of stuff. Mostly your fuel requirement. And if it's seeing too much fuel during a lean condition then the motor will ping because it's not getting enough fuel and then in turn the knock sensor will retard timing to compensate, making it seem as though the timing if off when it's the o2 sensor just not allowing the ecu to send enough fuel.

Hope this makes sense. But in short, get that o2 sensor fixed and then go from there.
Old 11-03-2010, 01:37 PM
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I will go ahead and Find a way to hook up a good oxygen sensor then but my head has been milled quite alot it wasn't milled to up the compression just to set it back to true (The back corner was WAY off) it get's old with the idle always changing. i want to put a cold air intake on it and if you guys think i need an adjustable cam gear i will look into one of them but its a work in progress lol. any help you all have i appreciate!
Old 11-03-2010, 02:04 PM
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how far was it milled? I had mine milled 10 thous and i can feel a bottom end loss but it still has plenty of power and idles perfectly.

Engnbldr told me not to shave it past that because of two reasons, mainly due to cam timing, but also the fact these motors are somewhat of an interference motor. There is not alot of play between the pistons and valves in these things. But we will not get into that too much because it will open up a debate on whether or not the 22r's are interference or non-interference again.

Even with the 10 thous I believe the cam timing is off a bit in mine. Past that your definitely gonna need a cam gear and have that cam degreed in. As far as I know, no one can say undoubtedly how much cam timing changes with each amount shaved off the head. I have had that discussion on here before without a definitive answer. You have to degree the cam in basically to get it perfect.
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