Flash319

I installed my chain kit about 3 months ago. Ever since I have been trying to track down a rattle. I have slowly given up but I think I found a contributor to the problem.
The instructions that I got with the kit say that you can re-use the guide bolts on the new steel rails. DO NOT DO THIS! THe chain will hit the bolts. I didn't think the chain would hit either so I left it. THe instructions also say you can use an old oil pan bolt. Do that or I think Ted now puts some new bolts in with the kit.

Check out the bolts!!

Brendan

how do the new bolts differ from the old ones? i wonder if that is the cause of my rattle as well. i used plastic guides and they are working fine, but i still hear a rattle when i am accelerating up hills.

kdawghuntnfish

Is this on a 22R?

AlaskaToy

Pretty likely; the 3.0 uses a belt, not a chain.

Erich_870

I'm a duffis

I see the bolts, but I don't see where the chain has hit them. Can you put an arrow

Erich

rockota

Timing chain should never hit those bolts. That is the tension side of the chain so there should be no slack in the chain. As a point of information, other steal backed kits are the same.

Also, before posting this, you should have talked with Ted himself and posed any questions concerns you have; he's a very stand up guy and would have gladly addressed any concerns.

Flash319

I thought that they would not hit as it is the tension side of the chain but it is. Those bolts are meant to go through a plastic guide. I do not know why they are hitting but I am posting this to warn against doing this. Nothing I can do now except take it back apart and change them. I just wish the instructions said "do not use the original bolts" as this is a potential problem. Maybe Ted was unaware of this situation at the time I bought this kit. I bought a second kit and it had new regular bolts in it.

rockota, Like I said it is to late now. I am sure Ted is a stand up guy, I have nothing against his stuff I just want to inform people of this problem when assembling the kit. Nothing I hate more then doing a job twice!!!!!!

Maybe Ted will see this and have some insight.......

dcg9381

It looks to me that even if you sink those bolts flush with the guide (bolt bottom) you're still going to have issues if your chain is flopping round...

Why you're getting that much back and forth in your chain is what I dunno.. I suspect that you've got a tensioner problem.

toyaholic

i contacted ted about this situation when i was assembling my engine. i thought that it was a little strange but he told me there was no problem and to use the "shoulder bolts" and there would be no problem. he has been using the setup forever. i haven't noticed any racket or problems. it looks as if it would take a lot of slack for the chain to hit the bolts. are you sure that there is no other problem causing this?

Flash319

The tensioner seams to work fine and even if it wasn't I don't know how that side would get that kind of slack. Maybe cam bearings or something?? I don't know it's got me. I think oil pan bolts will miss the chain but just barelly. I wish I could put a camera in there and watch it run. Or a clear timing cover would be cool...........

I wonder how much abuse like this the chain can take? I really don't want to bust the thing open again................

titicaca

looks like installation error more than faulty parts. if your tensioner is hitting the top oil pump bolt and binding or if you overtorqued the tensioner youll have issues . have you ever had the head decked or the block decked? the problem is not the bolt it is the excess chain slack, period. im not trying to be rude but dont take out your frustration on ted, he didnt install the kit on that engine.

kyle_22r

i've pulled apart a few 20Rs and 22Rs and they've all had some wear on the side of the bolts, even on the factory steel rail non-shoulder engines.

stock87

I've done both ways, and neither has resulted in any more noise than the other. Both engines had new valve adjuster studs adjusted properly to eliminate the possibility of excess valve noise. On my truck personally I have a rattle that I would have sworn was the timing chain, but it goes away with the slightest amount of pressure on the clutch pedal. Sounds like a chain, too.

toyaholic

u could wear some safety goggles and pull the valve cover, get someone to crank it though it would make a mess. just to see, if you are really worried. ??? yeah i know, dumb. ??? very messy.

ovrrdrive

Trust me, you don't want to do that. I speak from experience as someone that did it on the advice of a buddy. There might as well have been a fire hose shooting oil up off the timing chain. There is no way you could see anything at all looking down into the well even with goggles on.


As to the OP, you have other problems besides the timing rails. With the amount of slack you have in the chain at startup it doesn't matter what bolts you had in there it would still rub.

The engnbldr kit I got said to not reuse the shouldered bolts but to get some from an oil pan and use them. I don't recall anything saying you could use those if you wanted to.

Personally, I did reuse them as I didn't see any problem with doing so nor any benefit to using shorter bolts assuming the tensioner is working properly. I don't get any chain slap on startup either, so I have no reason to suspect that the chain is rubbing either.

I think its pretty screwed up to try dragging Ted's good name through he mud before you actually figure out what your problem really is. He supplies great parts to this community and is always willing to help out when needed with advice.

At the very least you should have called him and given him a chance to tell you offline what was going on before you jumped on here and started slinging ลลลล all over the place...

kyle_22r

while that's perfectly fine on an old american pushrod engine, i probably wouldn't try it on a 22R(E). the cam itself rides in a pool of oil and the rocker shafts are pressurized with it as well for oiling the rocker arms...talk about a mess!

Flash319

Wow you guys are funny. I am not "draging Teds good name down". I guess I should say "any steel rail kit that looks like Engbuldrs kit". No where do I say that there is anything wrong with the kits. I have got a full engine kit and a few timing kits from him and am very suprised at how good the quality is.

toyaholic

you guys are way to touchy. i didn't think that he was talking smack. calling to see what ted thought would have been cool though. he did personally tell me to reuse the bolts. i thought that it looked peculiar, but like i said, i'm not having any troubles.

stock87

Did you by any chance overtighten the tensioner bolts when you put it on? Or, did you remember to take the tape off (if you used that trick to compress it)?

Not trying to place blame or be some kind of a jerk, but there really shouldn't be that much slack in it. Light wear is one thing, but that looks like fairly major rubbing going on.

Flash319

The tensioner is fine and it is on the other side of sprockets anyway. The links between the 2 sprockets do not change so it should stay tight as long as the crank is doing the pulling. The only thing I can think of is that my cam bearings are going and they are grabing causing the cam to speed up and slow down which will cause slack on that side.