Ctenosaurian

So, to start, I have an 87 4Runner SR5 that I recently purchased. I went to get the emissions tested the other day and failed. I was too high on HC and CO for both the 2500 and idle tests. Following this test, I cleaned the throttle body and changed the oil in the engine. I am trying to diagnose the problem so I started by reading the saved trouble codes. I ended up having trouble codes 5,7,10,and 11. From what I have read on 4crawler.com trouble code 5 is a bad O2 sensor or ECU. TC 7 is either a defective TPS or ECU. TC 10 is No starter switch signal for ECU w/ vehicle speed = 0 and engine RPM > 800. Finally TC11 is Short circuit in Check Connector T with A/C switch ON or TPS - IDL point OFF. I am going to test the TPS tonight to rule that out, but wanted to ask everyone if they had any tips on the next thing to check following the TPS.

I am new to the 22re and would appreciate any hints/tips you guys might have on this. Thanks in advance.

Ian

motocrossaddict223

I'm actually interested in this, my truck (3vze) has had the ac switch code since i bought and i can not figure out what it its for the life of me!

Ctenosaurian

Hopefully we will be able to figure out both of our problems.

Ctenosaurian

So last night I installed a new o2 sensor. I pulled the one I had and it was totally covered in black soot, so I decided a new one was in order. Ran to the parts store to grab an Bosch OE style one, got it home and tried to install it. Being the idiot that I am, I failed to notice that the bad one was a three wire AC delco that the PO had installed. Back to the parts store and I picked up a replacement. I also replaced the cat with a new Wilson Cat. Unfortunately one of the flanges on the exhaust is slightly bent so I have a bit of an exhaust leak upstream of the cat. I may try to add a second gasket to fill the gap. Does anyone know how an exhaust leak upstream of the cat will affect my emissions? I would assume it shouldn't make anything worse, but don't know.

Ian

Gamefreakgc

I would recommend Bosch or better yet, Denso sensors. Toyotas can be picky with off-brands, you might experience poor gas mileage. However, if the P/O rewired it... I'm not sure what you could do except try and salvage an OEM wire off another vehicle and solder it on.

If the leak on the cat is noticeable and your tech is actually doing his job, you'll fail the visual inspection because of the leak. Try using some high temp ATV, since it's downstream of the O2 sensor it can't hurt anything (please, someone correct me if I'm wrong). The copper stuff works well and has high heat resistance but just ask for the highest heat tolerance possible. Or better yet, if theft of cats is a problem in your area, have a muffler shop weld it on. Mine is welded and thieves went through and took the cat off every Toyota in my area except for mine since it was too difficult to take off!

Check the TPS per the FSM specs. You'll need a feeler gauge to do it right. Chances are that's your issue for the rest of the codes.

Ctenosaurian

Gamefreakgc-
Thanks for the comments. I bought some feeler gauges last night and am planning on testing the TPS and adjusting it if it is still good. I also want to go through all of the vacuum lines to check for leaks. I might just replace all of them to ensure I don't miss any small leaks. Anyone out there know how much vacuum line and what sizes are needed to replace it all? I don't want to have to make 5 trips to buy vacuum line if someone has already compiled a list of what is needed.

Gamefreakgc

I assume you have a multi-meter and the FSM specs for the 22RE? If not, adjusting it accurately isn't possible. Also, having a second pair of hand helps immensely if one person hold the two ends of the multi-meter on the prongs and the other slowly rotates the TPS (loosen one screw and keep the other semi-tight).

If it's bad, it'll never adjust within spec. Autozone sells DENSO TPS's (packaged in Duralast boxes, just open to confirm), they are the exact same ones used as the manufacturer and work great.

I was going to post the link to the 22RE vacuum hose diagram... but it's not working for me at the moment . Just bring a section of it and match it. Almost all the vacuum hoses are that same size (if not all). The other sizes are coolant hoses. My motto when it comes to hoses is: when in doubt, replace it!

Just got it to work: http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...14layoutan.pdf

If you have an EGR, use this one (California emissions only): http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b...ne/15layou.pdf

Ctenosaurian

I do have a multi-meter, although it is an older analog one from my Dad. Once I am comfortable with using it, I will test the TPS. I have a FSM at home, although I found a nice write-up posted on here, from 4crawler. I read through it all last night, but need to go through it again to refresh before I test it. Thanks for the tip on the denso TPS at Autozone. If necessary, I will head over there to pick one up.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

I get my O2 sensors from sparkplugs.com. Get the Denso or NGk which ever it was that was from the factory. Alot of name brand parts may work great on domestic trucks but these Toyotas like Aisian, NGk, Denso.. Alot of your tuneup parts are reasonable prices from Toyota.

Check an clean your EGR system, probably a lot of gunk in there.

Ctenosaurian

Terrys87-
Is there an Aisin or Denso three wire heated o2 sensor? Like I mentioned, the PO had rewired it for a three wire AC Delco, so I went with the equivalent Bosch. If it doesn't work out, I will look into a three wire denso. I am going to go through the EGR next, I am assuming it might be gunked up, although this engine was fully rebuilt about 70,000 miles ago, so maybe it isn't so bad. We will see. Thanks for the help.

orbital02

x2 on gamefreak's comment of the vacuum diagram... I would confirm all vacuum and sensor plugs are correct before changing a bunch of parts

Gamefreakgc

If you're getting the O2 sensor code, it's bad. There's no other reason (except for the rare case of a bad ECU) why it would throw that code. They are supposed to be replaced approx. every 90k miles, so it may be due for one. For the rest though, definitely diagnose before replacing.

On second thought, there is a way to test the circuits on the O2 sensor if you check the FSM. Since you already have one (which puts you WAY ahead of the game!), you could test it to confirm.

Terrys87

iTrader: (1)

On some of the older models the O2 was single, after that as far as I know all other wires had 4 total wires. As was previously mentioned, ECU would be the least of your problems as they are rock solid from my experience. I have never had any problems with one and even one or two that got rained on still worked.

1985-87Toyota22RE


Just posting for other 87 motors. You need just the above pic.
1986-88Toyota22RT

1987Toyota22R.jpg

Gamefreakgc

Thanks for posting ones of an '87. I know there's slight differences through the years but it's usually not too bad. All I have to go off is the '93 manual but for 3VZ-Es, they didn't really change hardly at all.

Ctenosaurian

So I haven't had time to deal with the TPS, EGR, and vacuum lines yet, had to do the brakes this weekend. Did the V6 booster, master, and caliper upgrade. Also went with the oversize drum cylinders. I think I may need to bleed the brakes one more time, the pedal doesn't feel as hard as I would have expected. Might still have a few bubbles in the lines.

Gamefreakgc

It'll be obvious if you do. Have the other end of the bleed line in a clear container so it's easy to tell if you've got air.

If you find there's no more air, you might have too much "play" on your brake pedal. It's not a big deal though, one of those to just put on the to-do list.

Ctenosaurian

We bled the brakes a couple of times, so I am thinking it might be something else. I am going to double check that the brake booster plunger is properly adjusted for the master. Probably a dumb question, but when you say "play" in the pedal, are you saying that I might just need to adjust the pedal itself? I am assuming that it is adjusted where the brake booster attaches to the brake pedal, correct? This is my first attempt at brakes, so bear with me...

Gamefreakgc

I haven't done any changes to my brake system, it's all stock so I can't speak to the upgrade you did. As far as adjusting the play, it's just a simple process of tightening or loosening the rod. You can tell if you need it if you start to press the pedal and get NO response. Once you feel a change, that's the "play" of the pedal. This is easiest done when the engine is off and pump the pedal so it's firm. Then move the pedal with your hand back and forth and see if there's too much play per the FSM (item 3):

http://personal.utulsa.edu/~nathan-b.../3checksan.pdf

If it seems about right, then that's not your issue. With mine though, my brake pedal is squishier than my accelerator and clutch, despite adjusting all three so it's just the way it is. More importantly, as long as you can stop quickly and efficiently, it's not a big deal.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I'm sure you thought of the usual tune up stuff already?

Also when I failed smog after all that stuff, I found that my vacuum tubes were not set up right - review what Terry posted from the FSM and make sure your routing is correct and that you don't have leaks (use the WD40 trick to find any intake leaks).

Good luck!

Ctenosaurian

Gamefreakgc- I had forgotten to adjust the rod before I installed the master cylinder, so I am going to check that first. I will check the play as well.

Philbert- I am planning on checking all of the vacuum lines tonight if I get a chance. Will probably just replace all of them to make sure. I sprayed WD40 around a bit after I got home from the failed smog attempt and never noticed any change in RPM.