Emergency Brake will not completely disengage leaving light on instrument cluster.
#1
Emergency Brake will not completely disengage leaving light on instrument cluster.
My 1991 Toyota pickup RWD emergency brake all of sudden stopped going in all the way when releasing the e-brake, leaving the emergency brake light indicator on all the time? I checked the e-brake switch under dash and it is good, however, the metal lever at end of e-brake rod under dash does not reach the e-brake switch to shut the e-brake light off on instrument cluster? How can you adjust for this ??
#2
Registered User
If this issue started out of the blue, an 'adjustment' is not likely in order. Such 'adjustment' might get the light turned off, but it would not address whatever issue caused things to change.
Close inspection of the cables clevises and belcranks are in order.
Close inspection of the cables clevises and belcranks are in order.
#3
Registered User
You could try adjusting the e-brake cable, but you need to be sure that you don't make the rear brakes drag.
If any of the e-brake cables are kinked or coming apart internally it could also cause this (or sticky bell-cranks at the backing plate), so check everything carefully.
It is best to start with inspecting the rear brakes and making sure they are properly adjusted with the e-brake cables loosened then adjust the cable until the parking brake engages with about 7-9 clicks (I forget what number the manual suggests).
If any of the e-brake cables are kinked or coming apart internally it could also cause this (or sticky bell-cranks at the backing plate), so check everything carefully.
It is best to start with inspecting the rear brakes and making sure they are properly adjusted with the e-brake cables loosened then adjust the cable until the parking brake engages with about 7-9 clicks (I forget what number the manual suggests).
Last edited by akwheeler; 08-14-2018 at 06:56 AM. Reason: added bell cranks
#6
Sorry this was an issue prior to the brakes being done and they did not see an issue with the e-brake within the brakes themselves. They wanted to charge me for diagnosis of issue and suggested it was most likely the brake switch and I could fix myself. Checked switch and that is not the issue...
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Is this 2wd or 4wd the parking brakes are different
For some reason the cable is hanging up
Is it the front cable that started to fray where it attaches to the handle??
rear of the front cable where it attaches to the intermediate lever
One of the bell cranks hanging up or both if it has the bell crank style
Pivot for the rear cable over tighten and unable to move
Making sure the parking brake works is part of doing rear brakes !!
They don`t adjust correct without it working correct
For some reason the cable is hanging up
Is it the front cable that started to fray where it attaches to the handle??
rear of the front cable where it attaches to the intermediate lever
One of the bell cranks hanging up or both if it has the bell crank style
Pivot for the rear cable over tighten and unable to move
Making sure the parking brake works is part of doing rear brakes !!
They don`t adjust correct without it working correct
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#9
Sorry this was an issue prior to the brakes being done and they did not see an issue with the e-brake within the brakes themselves. They wanted to charge me for diagnosis of issue and suggested it was most likely the brake switch and I could fix myself. Checked switch and that is not the issue...
How does the cable pivot look under the truck?
#10
Registered User
Sorry, my reading comprehension is suffering today, but WTH, check the fluid level switch in the master cylinder reservoir anyway...
Last edited by Bad Karma; 08-15-2018 at 04:04 PM. Reason: wrong answer!
#11
Yes, i second badkarma. This is what caused the issue for me the first time.
The light was only half on, meaning that if i oulled the parking brake, it was coming on brighter. This was the case even though i had the fluod between min and max.
Now, it came on nearly all the way and just refilling fluid didnt do the trick. Not super sure where to look at now. Did not have a brake job recently
The light was only half on, meaning that if i oulled the parking brake, it was coming on brighter. This was the case even though i had the fluod between min and max.
Now, it came on nearly all the way and just refilling fluid didnt do the trick. Not super sure where to look at now. Did not have a brake job recently
#12
Registered User
On my '91, the fluid level switch just went bad... I disconnected the electrical connector at the master cylinder cap so the light would stay off. The parking brake will still activate the light, so I just need to hunt down a cap with a good level switch.
#14
ha, with changing out the cable&cap i got the light to be gone. so maybe the cable is broken.
issue i am having now is, that i cant find a spare part that is not only the lid or the whole master cylinder. anybody know where i can find the lid+cable? additionally my mpg has gone even worse lol.
issue i am having now is, that i cant find a spare part that is not only the lid or the whole master cylinder. anybody know where i can find the lid+cable? additionally my mpg has gone even worse lol.
#15
Registered User
iTrader: (-1)
Push the handle in, if it doesn't go in you can try putting pressure on it from under the vehicle at the lever, if it still won't retract inspect the cable/sheath.
Bend lever at the brakes will cause them to drag untill they wear down.
If the cable run isn't straight across the axel , they hang also.
If the brakes are maladjusted they hang also.
Of the levers are sticking same..
Essentially get under it and start wiggling bits to see what's not moving freely.
Bend lever at the brakes will cause them to drag untill they wear down.
If the cable run isn't straight across the axel , they hang also.
If the brakes are maladjusted they hang also.
Of the levers are sticking same..
Essentially get under it and start wiggling bits to see what's not moving freely.
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