I'm new to this site.
I have an '88 22re that won't start, but of course there is more so I'll do my best to explain.
A couple of years ago I dropped a different engine in due to a blown head gasket. It ran fine for 2 years. It started up cold immediately but when warmed up it would take along time but still started. Also, occasionally, when i turned the key there was nothing but if i held the key in the start position, the starter would catch by itself after a few seconds and it would start. Now...
A couple months ago I blew another head gasket.
The mechanic, (not familiar with 22re), said my head was cracked so it is now new also. When he finished, it fired right up even with a broken cold start injector sensor that he broke. I replaced it with a junk yard sensor from a different engine. The part number was different but it was brown and plugged right in. within 1 week something strange happened. It would start up but when i died it out and tried to restart it, it wouldn't even turn over...nothing...dead. After waiting up to 5 minutes it would fire right up. This lasted about 1 week and now won't start and mechanic can't figure out what the problem is. He traced it to a "relay" inside the pass. side kick panel which was only getting 6 volts. So he ran a jumper wire from the battery, through the firewall to the relay. It started right up and I drove it for about 1 week like this. But again, now it won't start. I didn't mention that it always started with starting fluid only until it was used up.
When a noid is connected to cold start injector, sometimes it lights up for 1 blink but most of the time there is nothing. The mechanic replaced the fuel pump. Now he is thinking it is the injector resistor mounted on the pass. side fender in the engine compartment. All fuses appear good.
PLEASE help!!!

 

Find another mechanic.

 

I second that.

 

I was the one that was on PMs with you. If it is starting up with Starting Fluid and the LED light is working on the injector, from my experience and I just recently went thru this on a project, my injectors were all stuck. I don't think your injectors are stuck but feel your crimps are bad or the ground wires bad in the harness. If I recall right, your Injector Resistor should measure out between 2-3 Ohms. I have never had one of them to fail. It is listed here in my notes >>> https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51897320

Just what I am hearing about your mechanic isn't giving me that much confidence in his ability. He may be good on other motors but feel he is probably over his head in Toyotas.

Does he still have the jumper in the relay that you mentioned? If you can get an LED from Radio Shack Part Number #276-0270 and tell me what results you are getting, that would help.

Are you comfortable on taking the injectors out or disassembling the intake system some? For the most part the injection system is actually a simple circuit even though it may not feel like it to you now. Do you have a pickup or runner? You will want to disconnect the fuel pump plug. On a runner it is easy to get to it under the seat.

 

I want to know just which pin on the circuit opening relay (COR) was only getting 6 volts .

Let us hope the mechanic put a fuse in this new hot wire perhaps it has opened ??
So no fuel!!

So rather then fix the problem a bandaid was put on. Now have you burned out one of the coils fried the contacts .

If you were crying that you needed your truck I could see just patching it.

I have never seen the injector resistor fail although it very well could happen very simple to check if it is open .

It should measure 2 to 3 ohms.

If your mechanic only thinks it is the resistor I agree time to find some one else.

 

the resistor on the right fender has 12 volts in and out but no ohms at all and the problem is no injector pulse also the jumper is no longer needed the original problem was efi relay

 

Yes, Find another mechanic, and clarify description of problem:
cranking - when starter turns over
ignition - when you have spark from ignition system
combustion - when you actually have fuel and air and the spark from ignition system burns them (the VROOM).

 

the problem is no injector pulse I have twelve volts at both wires on all injectors with key on or cranking doesn't change if I disconnect the resistor on fender it cuts all power to injectors. if the resistor is power in and out the same there is no reason for resistor. I also have no ohm reading on cranking or key on .I have this mechanic that has not charged me for any of his time yet so I need help not suggestions on a new mechanic.

 

You might have said your not paying for this work.

We were trying to help

Are you sure you read 0 Ohms ?? Not infinity ??

Have you checked the pins coming off the ECU??

Have any friends you could try another resistor ??

 

there was no reading at all my meter never changed and I checked ohms on a little resistor to check my meter so I know it works.At the ecu the wires for injectors are 12v unless you unplug resistor and it doesn't change from key or cranking. and I do appreciate the help just aggravated

 

You checked the fuses? efi fuse for instance?

 

I am not an electrician, but have some understanding of electric, not much but some basics. With the resistor out, you have broken the circuit. Basically electricity flow in a circle.

I too thought you were paying for a mechanic so it is good he is trying to help you. I have had the circuit to show it was a complete circuit but still not run. It has to pass X amount of eletric to fire the injectors.

 

Yep. The negative side of the C.O.R. coil (pin 4) could have leakage voltage (normal and low current) IF AFM contact is open. That side is supposed to go to ground when AFM contacts close. Putting positive 12V there could blow your AFM contacts.

In order to measure ohms, you need to disconnect everything connected to EACH resistor.

IF you are measuring voltage and there is no load on the resistor, you would read 12V at both sides of the resistor.

It's hard for us to help if we could not visualize what you are doing. Pics would help.

Injectors and resistors will always have 12V when ignition is on. IF you are measuring voltage and there is no load on the resistor, you would read 12V at both sides of the resistor. You will also read same 12V at wires that go to ECU pins E1, #20, & #10. That's switched ground system, meaning ECU decides to when to ground pin E1, #20, OR #10.
That provides ground to negative side of injector coil to fire that injector.

"Noid" LED that Tery mentions will show whether that is happening.

 

The man has arrived now. Radrunner is indispensable with anything electric.

 

Thank You I really was not up to explaining all that and you do it so smooth!

Where I talk to idiots all day for the most.

 

LOL!

gpdrgrowley, as Terrry mentions in his post/notes, see 4Crawler's explanation here. Note where he says "ECU grounds the injectors", and his picture of the splices in the harness that runs between injectors and the firewall. That part of the harness gets extreme temps from around the intake manifold.

Also, you need to tackle the problem, one problem at a time, other wise you'll get confused and so would we who do not see what your mech is doing.

If starter is not cranking, look at cranking system (see my explanation on my thread).

If you're not getting fuel at the rail or fuel pump is not working, see C.O.R. and fuel pump system, also explained on my thread.

If you have fuel at the rail but not out of the injectors, then look at resistor, injector, wiring and ECU.

If you're not getting spark, then look at ignition system.

AND, is your mech looking at a schematic?