"Mr Random" is wrong, the Taurus fan draws around 60 amps initially.......

http://youtu.be/gWJFzAMsIlc

 

Curious:
C0ugar69 - which controller are you using?

DC Control sells an FK55, FK85, 50p35, and a 2sp2 controller. I am planning on ordering the 2sp2 when the site is back up. Any clarification?

The 85a is made by Mystery.

 

Quoted for truth! Thanks for the correction... now to find out why my system isn't frying from that draw... ha.

Upon watching that, he has a single speed... Now I know I'm still wrong on my "running" amps, but I'm kinda still doubting the low speed on a dual fan pulls over 65 on start up... I'll research before I post again.

 

I am using something similair to the FK85 that is the newer model to what I have. I said 85a because it is rated at 85amps. the startup on the high speed is around 65amps and pulls about 35amps once running, the fuse will hold long enough to get throught the startup. the way mine works is I hook the fan control to high speed and then the controller adjust the speed acorrdingly. and with a/c on it puts fan on at 50% speed, its pretty cool how it works, I will try and get a video so you guys can see it in operation.

 

I run a Flex-a-lite fan with their variable speed controller on my 87.
Last month on Imogen Trail the controller stopped working, so we had to hard wire the fan direct to a power source. During a water crossing, I forgot to disconnect the fan and a blade broke off and went into the radiator, causing a leak.

I am still going to use the fan, flex-a-lite sent me a new fan blade and controller, but this time my cut off switch will be wired in line with the power wire to the controller.

If you do a lot of water crossing, not sure any electric fan is a good thing.

 

Any cooling issues?

 

coops2k, I would say an electric fan is better then a clutch fan if doing water crossings. As you cannot stop a mechanic fan from spinning and the chance of throwing a blade is better. You just got to remember to turn it on and off.

 

I'm in agreement... at the very least, if it's deep enough to warrant the fan being turned off, it's deep enough to cool your radiator and engine quite a bit by itself...

Only time I wouldn't feel safe is in mud... have had bad experiences there....

 

No cooling issues at all, the truck runs very cool. With the flex-a-lite fan, the temp gauge stay just below the 1/2 mark, then with the cheap fan from AutoZone, it stay just at or above the 1/2 mark.


Don't get me wrong, I really like the electric fan and will keep it. And I hope to remember to turn it off next time . But there where 4 other trucks or jeeps that where at the same height or lower than my truck without electric fans that did not have any problems in the same water crossing. A friend was thinking that clutch fan turns at what 1000-3000rpm, what ever the truck engine is turning, where I think an electric fan is turning at a much higher rate. A clutch fan can slip a little, where the electric one can not.

Found out today that the motor was also damage in the water crossing. The staff as a large amount of pay in it. The crossing moved the fan blade about 1/8 of an inch on the motor shaft and the set screw cut a grove in the motor shaft. That is a lot of force.

 

Is it a push fan in front of radiator or pull?

 

push in front (pushing the air through)

pull behind (pulling the air through)

 

I meant which do you have? I would think a push is much more vulnerable in water crossings

 

SCToy and stop me coops2k if I am wrong, it sounds as though he's running one of each. One in front one in back.

 

sorry guys, my misunderstanding, I have one fan, it is a pull Flex-a-lite part number 165

should have a new motor this week and back together this weekend

 

back up and running

 

gonna bump this up. I have decided I am gonna try out the Villager or the Taurus fan. Now I just got to find the pros and cons of each.

 

i have the villager fan. if you trim off all the non-flat parts of the shroud, it fits the face of the radiator nicely. also, you'll need to add a few washers to move the fan and motor away from the rad. it only comes on if stopped or going under ~25mph, and i have never seen the high-speed fan come on (indicator circuit. still have 'em if you want one)

the engine warms up a lot faster in cold weather, and cools down everything if left on and engine off. you can also set it up to be forced on, forced off, or full-auto (my next mod to it)

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f199...l#post51782234

 

I've heard the Villager fan pulls more air the the Taurus fan but I have seen the numbers on the Taurus fan. It's hard to believe the Villager moves more air.

And Ian you did do the GM alt swap already right? If so was that before or after you did the fan swap? The only thing that worries me with this as of right now is the amperage draw of either fan is kinda high.

 

only the initial start-up is a heavy draw. after that, it's a relatively small draw. i have a 30amp fuse, and it hasn't blown.

i did the gm alt swap when i rebuilt, and added the bus-bars. the alternator definitely helps, but most of the initial load is absorbed by the battery

and i'm not sure about cfm, but the villager fan moves plenty of air. both the taurus and villager fans were meant to cool bigger engines, so really, they'll both work just fine

 

Ok good to know then a 40 amp relay etc etc should be enough to hold at least the villager fan. Not confirmed the Taurus one yet. Now to find out if there is any truth in the Tar fan being "better". I have a feeling around here, it might be easier to find a Tar fan in the yards then a villager one. And I would rather run the higher CFM one if possible. I know quite a few Domestic V8 guys are using the Tar fan. I think the Taurus fan I need has to come from a 3.8 Taurus though.