EGR completely removed
07-31-2011, 05:01 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
EGR completely removed
I live in sunny hot Florida. We have no government emission testing here. Over the past few months I've cleaned up my engine compartment. I've completely removed my heat. Cleaned out and capped the heater core. Completely removed and capped off all EGR parts. What problems, if any will I encounter when I start her back up?
08-01-2011, 08:51 AM
#3
Registered User
^^^ what a funny guy....
lol....
Anyways, as far as problems? you're probably gonna get some codes. I recently had to do some work to my EGR system and it was giving powerloss and codes ( the annoying 71 code ) But i've never heard of anyone blocking/capping it off... i know LC makes block off kits though.
lol....
Anyways, as far as problems? you're probably gonna get some codes. I recently had to do some work to my EGR system and it was giving powerloss and codes ( the annoying 71 code ) But i've never heard of anyone blocking/capping it off... i know LC makes block off kits though.
08-01-2011, 09:52 AM
#4
Registered User
Your combustion temps will go up, putting increased stress on your head gasket and putting the exhaust valves at increased risk of burning. That could also introduce a pinging problem that the ecu may not be able to correct for by retarding timing. You will see zero increase in power, because egr doesn't operate at full throttle, and you may see a slight decrease in gas mileage, since egr improves that at cruise a little bit.
Last edited by sb5walker; 08-01-2011 at 09:55 AM.
08-01-2011, 10:01 AM
#5
Registered User
My 22R has no problems. I removed the EGR and all the exhaust tubes when I got my header.
I want to get rid off all the gas vapor stuff too but I have to wait for my Weber (less vacuum lines).
But like I said mines carbed...no sensors to worry about.
I want to get rid off all the gas vapor stuff too but I have to wait for my Weber (less vacuum lines).
But like I said mines carbed...no sensors to worry about.
08-01-2011, 10:29 AM
#6
Registered User
Your combustion temps will go up, putting increased stress on your head gasket and putting the exhaust valves at increased risk of burning. That could also introduce a pinging problem that the ecu may not be able to correct for by retarding timing. You will see zero increase in power, because egr doesn't operate at full throttle, and you may see a slight decrease in gas mileage, since egr improves that at cruise a little bit.
08-01-2011, 10:52 AM
#7
Your combustion temps will go up, putting increased stress on your head gasket and putting the exhaust valves at increased risk of burning. That could also introduce a pinging problem that the ecu may not be able to correct for by retarding timing. You will see zero increase in power, because egr doesn't operate at full throttle, and you may see a slight decrease in gas mileage, since egr improves that at cruise a little bit.
Just listen very carefully for spark knock, as EGR does cool combustion temps at part throttle cruising. If you are only doing this for looks, that's one thing. Does nothing for performance or gas mileage.
Trending Topics
08-01-2011, 12:06 PM
#8
Registered User
I've read articles on EGR since it started appearing in the '70s, but I didn't keep a list of them. A little googling found these:
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov97/gas.htm
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec97/egr.htm
http://www.greencarcongress.com/2011...-20110520.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/emissions.html
http://www.aa1car.com/library/spark_knock.htm
http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm
http://www.napaechlin.com/Miscellane...s/Content.aspx
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1503
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1515
The main purpose of EGR is to cool combustion temps to reduce Nox formation. Nox only forms at high temps. EGR works because exhaust gas is inert, and so it dilutes the combustion charge so that there is less air/fuel burning in the same cylinder volume. The result is lower combustion temps. Sounds counter-intuitive, but it works. Although exhaust gas is hot, it's much less hot than combustion temps.
When it's working right (vac lines connected correctly, egr exhaust tubes and valve not clogged, and egr valve, vsv & modulator working right) then egr won't operate at idle, full throttle, or when motor is cold. So it only operates at cruise, where it gives a slight mileage improvement because egr operation in effect reduces the displacement of a motor (only when egr operating), and because of a bunch of technical reasons like less energy lost as heat, throttle plate open more/less drag at a given power level, exhaust injection results in less negative intake pressure/drag on intake stroke piston, etc.
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/nov97/gas.htm
http://www.asashop.org/autoinc/dec97/egr.htm
http://www.greencarcongress.com/2011...-20110520.html
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Exhaust_gas_recirculation
http://www.allpar.com/mopar/emissions.html
http://www.aa1car.com/library/spark_knock.htm
http://www.misterfixit.com/deton.htm
http://www.napaechlin.com/Miscellane...s/Content.aspx
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1503
http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1515
The main purpose of EGR is to cool combustion temps to reduce Nox formation. Nox only forms at high temps. EGR works because exhaust gas is inert, and so it dilutes the combustion charge so that there is less air/fuel burning in the same cylinder volume. The result is lower combustion temps. Sounds counter-intuitive, but it works. Although exhaust gas is hot, it's much less hot than combustion temps.
When it's working right (vac lines connected correctly, egr exhaust tubes and valve not clogged, and egr valve, vsv & modulator working right) then egr won't operate at idle, full throttle, or when motor is cold. So it only operates at cruise, where it gives a slight mileage improvement because egr operation in effect reduces the displacement of a motor (only when egr operating), and because of a bunch of technical reasons like less energy lost as heat, throttle plate open more/less drag at a given power level, exhaust injection results in less negative intake pressure/drag on intake stroke piston, etc.
Last edited by sb5walker; 08-01-2011 at 01:58 PM.
08-04-2011, 12:34 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I rebuilt my engine a couple of months ago and have since gotten the annoying 71 code. I have also noticed a smell coming from my engine. To me it smells like burning carbon. I live in a small town, so I don't ever really drive very far. I'm assuming that there might be a chunk of carbon stuck in my egr openning or that since rebuilding the engine I just need to take it for a long drive and burn it off. Any thoughts?
08-04-2011, 08:26 PM
#10
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Florida
Posts: 156
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for everyone's feed back. I bought all block off plates at LCE. One on the air tank,and two on the head. As for the heater delete, one on the intake and one by the water pump. Ya, the block off plate on the back of the head was a booger to replace. That was the only place I saw where the coolant touched the erg. Not much cooling going on here. How shall I get rid of the 71 code?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
