Search "code 71" and you'll find two threads I started and a whole lot more!

Good luck!

 

I like the resistor idea. And I saw a picture of it in practice, but I have no idea where to pick one up...Help?

 

I will see if I can find the thread again , from what I remember it is a 10 ohm resistor you just solder between the 2 Temp Sensor wires , you can get a resistor at radio shack , MudHippy knows about the place to get as he is the one that listed the aftermarket supplier in one of his threads , maybe he will check this out and tell you , otherwise I will look and see if I can find , do a search on EGR or Temp Sensor and see what you get . It was a EGR Thread I believe he gave the reference

 

Radio Shack.

Never done it myself, but see this post https://www.yotatech.com/50443138-post31.html from this thread https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...my-egr-108005/. Post #9 also explains the details of the blocking off technique.

 

Get you the resistor ( 10K ) , small shrink tubing pack and a tiny roll of solder :
Solder those wires shrink tube each side up to the resistor and then slide that larger piece you put on before soldering the ends and shrink that then use one of those clips on your firewall and tuck it in and no more blinking toture .

 

I have alot of resistor, if you need them all you have to do is PM me for it, just send me a dollar just for the shipping and you can have 5 resister...

 

From what I have seen the only major differences are the emissions packages on them , the FSM lists them all , just have to identify what you have (type of EGR ,PCV,EVAP) and then you can go from there.

 

WTF? Engrish prease. Since you are installing into a female connector couldn't you just bend the ends and slip them into the connector? Or are your instructions to cut the wire, solder, and use heat shrink tubing?

I've checked my whole EGR system for vacuum leaks, replaced the EGR valve, and that damn code came back on again. I want to just put the resistor in and be done with it. I know the valve is working properly - it has to be that temp sensor coming out of the valve that must be sending a bad signal. I could replace that but at $150 and the cost that I'm in on the EGR valve it would be pointless. BTW - anybody want a perfectly good used EGR? I'll sell it off cheap.

 

10K resistor worked like a champ. I didn't pull the battery to reset the code - the light turned off after a couple of errands and hasn't been back. Now I just have to figure out if I blew the fuse for my clock.