EFI Troubleshooting Question
#1
EFI Troubleshooting Question
Does anyone know of any troublshooting diagnostics or manuals other then the FSM? I am having a lot of difficulty diagnosing why my 86 4Runner will not start. Thanks in advance.
#2
Registered User
We need more information, like does it turn over ?, does it get spark ?, are you getting fuel to the injectors ?, the more information you give us, the easier it is for us to help you.
#4
Engine will not Run
Thanks. Here is what I have checked:
Good Spark. Engine will fire for a few seconds, but will not run. In fact, if you touch the accellerater it will die immediately.
Air flow meter, air valve, start time injector, water temp sensor, solenoid resister, TPS, distributer, main relay circiut opening relay, fuses all check good.
Tining is good and not 180 out as I removed the valve cover to confirm.
Checked the injector with a noid light (never heard of one until now) which cheks the injector by way of a light. the light wflashed, but was dim. however, I think it is dim due to the fact the eninge willnot run. Not sure though.
I have a ground from the engine to the battery, engine to body, body to battery and battery to frame.
Swapped my ECU into a running 4Runner and it worked fine.
Checked fuel pressure at cold start injector and checked 38 psi (high but good).
Checked the FSM "voltage at ECU Wiring Connectors" and passed all checks EXCEPT for VTA to E2 for fully open which I had a reading of 3.76 volts and and IDL to E2 with a reading of 11.29 volts at part throttle., both which are out of spec.
I went and checked continuity on the wiring from ECU at E1 to body ground and had 70 ohms. I would have thought this should have been near zero.
The history of my vehicle is as follows:
I had a 1984 SR5 pickup with an 85 & up block, but carberated.
I wanted EFI for the steep climbs so I obtained an 86 4Runner with EFI. However, the engine was out of the 4Runner and not running obviously.
I swapped the 4Runner body including all of its' wiring onto the pickup frame (as it had all of the off road mods - springs, axles, shock mounts, etc). Minor mistake as the mounts did not line up and had to graft in 4Runner mounts. Not my brightest move. Should alwasy research this first.
I removed the EFI components off the 4Runner engine and swapped onto my 85 & up pickup engine after having the head done, but retaining cam as I was told it would work and it was a perfomance cam.
Placed motor into the 4Runner and attempted to start it. I have checked everything I know and even brought my brother in law over (he is a mechanic) to see if we could make it run. To date, it will not fire and stay running.
Any assitance or help would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if I have made any mistakes. I really want to figure it out as I need to know the vehicle so if anyhting comes up on the trail I can figure it out then.
Good Spark. Engine will fire for a few seconds, but will not run. In fact, if you touch the accellerater it will die immediately.
Air flow meter, air valve, start time injector, water temp sensor, solenoid resister, TPS, distributer, main relay circiut opening relay, fuses all check good.
Tining is good and not 180 out as I removed the valve cover to confirm.
Checked the injector with a noid light (never heard of one until now) which cheks the injector by way of a light. the light wflashed, but was dim. however, I think it is dim due to the fact the eninge willnot run. Not sure though.
I have a ground from the engine to the battery, engine to body, body to battery and battery to frame.
Swapped my ECU into a running 4Runner and it worked fine.
Checked fuel pressure at cold start injector and checked 38 psi (high but good).
Checked the FSM "voltage at ECU Wiring Connectors" and passed all checks EXCEPT for VTA to E2 for fully open which I had a reading of 3.76 volts and and IDL to E2 with a reading of 11.29 volts at part throttle., both which are out of spec.
I went and checked continuity on the wiring from ECU at E1 to body ground and had 70 ohms. I would have thought this should have been near zero.
The history of my vehicle is as follows:
I had a 1984 SR5 pickup with an 85 & up block, but carberated.
I wanted EFI for the steep climbs so I obtained an 86 4Runner with EFI. However, the engine was out of the 4Runner and not running obviously.
I swapped the 4Runner body including all of its' wiring onto the pickup frame (as it had all of the off road mods - springs, axles, shock mounts, etc). Minor mistake as the mounts did not line up and had to graft in 4Runner mounts. Not my brightest move. Should alwasy research this first.
I removed the EFI components off the 4Runner engine and swapped onto my 85 & up pickup engine after having the head done, but retaining cam as I was told it would work and it was a perfomance cam.
Placed motor into the 4Runner and attempted to start it. I have checked everything I know and even brought my brother in law over (he is a mechanic) to see if we could make it run. To date, it will not fire and stay running.
Any assitance or help would be greatly appreciated. Please let me know if I have made any mistakes. I really want to figure it out as I need to know the vehicle so if anyhting comes up on the trail I can figure it out then.
#6
Registered User
Have you tryed spraying some carb cleaner or gas into the upper intake to see if it will run ?. from what you describe above it almost seems like your problem is fuel related, I can`t remember off the top of my head what the fuel presure should be, but 38 psi seems a bit low to me.
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#8
If I spray carb cleaner up the intake, it will run, but only for ashort while. I also tried to sustain it by spraying for a long time, but it would not continue running.
As far as the fuel pressure, if the pressure should be 38-44, maybe the fuel pump is bad. I had shorted the fuel connector in the engine bay and turned the key on to get the 38 psi which I thought was the FSM vlaue (33-38 as i recall), but you'll know htis stuff better than I.
Thanks.
As far as the fuel pressure, if the pressure should be 38-44, maybe the fuel pump is bad. I had shorted the fuel connector in the engine bay and turned the key on to get the 38 psi which I thought was the FSM vlaue (33-38 as i recall), but you'll know htis stuff better than I.
Thanks.
#9
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There are 2 or 3 ground wires (they are bunched together on one ring) that are red in color that get bolted to the intake manifold junction (1st to second half). I have had this cause problems with my injection.
Since you seam to have gone over everything I would be looking to timing ands distributor problems because you are getting a hit for a second. The pickup in the distributor may be the problem. The pickup in the distributor is what times the injectors, no pulse, no fuel.
If you are getting pressure at the cold start injector then your relays, fuel pump and AFM are working.
Your Idle to E2 on you TPS should be a closed switch (no electrical resistance) with the butterfly closed. When you just start to open the butterfly, it should jump open (high resistance, infinity). This will not cause a no run condition though, just bad idle and fuel consumption.
Also make sure your O2 sensor wiring is not shorting.
Since you seam to have gone over everything I would be looking to timing ands distributor problems because you are getting a hit for a second. The pickup in the distributor may be the problem. The pickup in the distributor is what times the injectors, no pulse, no fuel.
If you are getting pressure at the cold start injector then your relays, fuel pump and AFM are working.
Your Idle to E2 on you TPS should be a closed switch (no electrical resistance) with the butterfly closed. When you just start to open the butterfly, it should jump open (high resistance, infinity). This will not cause a no run condition though, just bad idle and fuel consumption.
Also make sure your O2 sensor wiring is not shorting.
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