Downey suspension lift
#1
I've had my '90 toyota 4runner for about a year and a half now and I've decided to put a small lift on it. I've done quite a bit of research (mostly internet) and have settled on purchasing from Downey Offroad. Downey seems like high quality. After ordering their catalog and talking to their reps I've decided to purchase their Downey HD 1.5" coils (i got he sag), Downey 26" torsion bars, low profile snubbers and Doetsch-Tech Prerunner shocks for the front and rear end. I plan to crank the T-bars up 1.5" to make the front end level with the rear. I also plan to buy either a pair of used Aisin manual hubs or the Mile markers that Downey has to offer. I may be young and inexperienced
, but I'm up to the challege of making the project work. I've read a lot of installations of T-bars and coils from the toyo tech website and others. Plus, I've got freinds and family who are willing to help (much more experienced than I am) and supply tools that I may not have and need.
I just wanted to ask you people before I made the purchase (I'd figure that Downey would ONLY tell me how good their products are). I was wondering whether it would be better to get the used Aisin Manual hubs (because of quality) and rebuild them if need be or the new Mile Markers. I was also wondering how stiff the suspension would be, especially on-road/highway, after the HD coils, cranked up T-bars and Doetsch-Tech Prerunners were installed. Hopefully I don't lose my mind
or cash in my account doing this 1.5" lift. I'd appreciate ANY input and advise on these products and their installations (especially any tricks or what to watch out for). Thx
Oh, I almost forgot. I was also wondering if it would be worth it to purchase any polyurethane bushings to replace any rubber ones since I would be taking apart a lot of the underside of the 4runner anyway. Thx again
, but I'm up to the challege of making the project work. I've read a lot of installations of T-bars and coils from the toyo tech website and others. Plus, I've got freinds and family who are willing to help (much more experienced than I am) and supply tools that I may not have and need. I just wanted to ask you people before I made the purchase (I'd figure that Downey would ONLY tell me how good their products are). I was wondering whether it would be better to get the used Aisin Manual hubs (because of quality) and rebuild them if need be or the new Mile Markers. I was also wondering how stiff the suspension would be, especially on-road/highway, after the HD coils, cranked up T-bars and Doetsch-Tech Prerunners were installed. Hopefully I don't lose my mind
or cash in my account doing this 1.5" lift. I'd appreciate ANY input and advise on these products and their installations (especially any tricks or what to watch out for). Thx
Oh, I almost forgot. I was also wondering if it would be worth it to purchase any polyurethane bushings to replace any rubber ones since I would be taking apart a lot of the underside of the 4runner anyway. Thx again
#3
Originally Posted by jimabena74
poly bushings are always a welcomed upgrade over stock... downey is good stuff, i plan on ordering a lot from them in the future
. Are there any noticable comforts after installing the bushings?
#4
from what i have heard there is more responsiveness, which is good or bad depending on the person... supposedly its a little rougher ride, but i have heard with all the new technology advancements that they ride just better than the stock ones...
#5
i had the SAW t-bars (bascically the same as the downeys) and cranked them up to match the rear end, it makes the front very stiff which isnt so bad on the street (since it makes the truck less "wobbly") but if you off-road it your uptravel in the front will be very limited since you've increased the pre-load on the front torsion bars. If thats not an issue for you go ahead and do what you planned, if offroading is important skip the t-bars ( you dont REALLY need them unless you get a heavy bumper and/or winch) and get some balljoint spacers to match the front to the back. It gives you the added height, without stiffening the supsension.
My $0.02
My $0.02
#6
Have you thought about a body lift ? A 3" body Lift is much cheaper than a suspension lift. Do a search on Roger Brown or RB body lift. Roger is a GREAT guy and very helpfull, He custom makes the lifts for our trucks.
Heres a link Rogers Brown's site
Im planning on installing the lift within the next few weeks
Heres a link Rogers Brown's site
Im planning on installing the lift within the next few weeks
#7
Originally Posted by NCSU-4runner
i had the SAW t-bars (bascically the same as the downeys) and cranked them up to match the rear end, it makes the front very stiff which isnt so bad on the street (since it makes the truck less "wobbly") but if you off-road it your uptravel in the front will be very limited since you've increased the pre-load on the front torsion bars. If thats not an issue for you go ahead and do what you planned, if offroading is important skip the t-bars ( you dont REALLY need them unless you get a heavy bumper and/or winch) and get some balljoint spacers to match the front to the back. It gives you the added height, without stiffening the supsension.
My $0.02
My $0.02
Last edited by mt_goat; Aug 19, 2004 at 05:56 AM.
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#8
Skip the torsion bars. I have the Downey HD rear springs and cranked the torsion bars to level out the front. I like the ride and everyone who rides in my truck comments on the soft ride. Get the HD coils - they ride great and handle heavy loads with no sagging.
#9
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: From NW Washington, stationed in Alameda CA
When I cranked up my SAW torsion bars my ride was so crappy. It was so bad when I hit rough roads, I would seriously lose grip of the steering wheel if I wasnt holding it tightly. I hated it. My girlfriend didnt even want to ride in it because it was so rough. Im not exagerating either. And then ofcourse I didnt know about swapping to manual hubs and I tore a CV boot on each axle and had to replace them not knowing that they ripped because of the torsions, but thats a whole diff. story.
I finally lowered the front end down and am still trying to figure out a way to bring the front end up.
I finally lowered the front end down and am still trying to figure out a way to bring the front end up.
#10
Originally Posted by Sbrut95
When I cranked up my SAW torsion bars my ride was so crappy. It was so bad when I hit rough roads, I would seriously lose grip of the steering wheel if I wasnt holding it tightly. I hated it. My girlfriend didnt even want to ride in it because it was so rough. Im not exagerating either. And then ofcourse I didnt know about swapping to manual hubs and I tore a CV boot on each axle and had to replace them not knowing that they ripped because of the torsions, but thats a whole diff. story.
I finally lowered the front end down and am still trying to figure out a way to bring the front end up.
I finally lowered the front end down and am still trying to figure out a way to bring the front end up.
The BJ spacers fixed my rough ride and lifted the front 1.5 inches. I'm a happy camper and so is my wife.
#11
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 222
Likes: 0
From: From NW Washington, stationed in Alameda CA
Originally Posted by mt_goat
Yeah! I had the same problem with my wife, didn't want to ride in it. Plus I couldn't drink anything out of a cup. :pat:
The BJ spacers fixed my rough ride and lifted the front 1.5 inches. I'm a happy camper and so is my wife.
The BJ spacers fixed my rough ride and lifted the front 1.5 inches. I'm a happy camper and so is my wife.

Yeah, dont even try drinking anything while you drive, thats funny, I forgot about how hard that was. Not to Jack this thread, but MT Goat- BJ spacers are the way to go then for 1.5" of lift? And problems when in 4wd with the CV axles/angle?
#12
The Milemarker hubs are a good quality, even though they are not Toyota. I have them and have no problems at all. Make sure you get the spindle nut kit or grind down the lip on the factory lock nut or you will brake the hub flange when you tighten it down (ie: experience
).......
).......
#13
re: hub,
I used Warn Premium hubs on my IFS. You have to monitor the 6 nuts cause they have a tendency to walk out.
re: downey coil springs
I went with their medium duty which gave me the same lift and didn't sag the whole time I've had it. The ride is 10% stiffer than stock which oppose to 20% on the Hd.
I used it with RS 9017 on #3 out of 5 setting. Flex really well too.
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1...ex/Oct2701.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1...ex/Oct2702.jpg
I used Warn Premium hubs on my IFS. You have to monitor the 6 nuts cause they have a tendency to walk out.
re: downey coil springs
I went with their medium duty which gave me the same lift and didn't sag the whole time I've had it. The ride is 10% stiffer than stock which oppose to 20% on the Hd.
I used it with RS 9017 on #3 out of 5 setting. Flex really well too.
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1...ex/Oct2701.jpg
http://home.earthlink.net/~audiorat1...ex/Oct2702.jpg
#14
Originally Posted by Sbrut95
Not to Jack this thread, but MT Goat- BJ spacers are the way to go then for 1.5" of lift? And problems when in 4wd with the CV axles/angle?
#15
Originally Posted by 4Hummer
Have you thought about a body lift ? A 3" body Lift is much cheaper than a suspension lift. Do a search on Roger Brown or RB body lift. Roger is a GREAT guy and very helpfull, He custom makes the lifts for our trucks.
Heres a link Rogers Brown's site
Im planning on installing the lift within the next few weeks
Heres a link Rogers Brown's site
Im planning on installing the lift within the next few weeks
#16
Originally Posted by NCSU-4runner
i had the SAW t-bars (bascically the same as the downeys) and cranked them up to match the rear end, it makes the front very stiff which isnt so bad on the street (since it makes the truck less "wobbly") but if you off-road it your uptravel in the front will be very limited since you've increased the pre-load on the front torsion bars. If thats not an issue for you go ahead and do what you planned, if offroading is important skip the t-bars ( you dont REALLY need them unless you get a heavy bumper and/or winch) and get some balljoint spacers to match the front to the back. It gives you the added height, without stiffening the supsension.
My $0.02
My $0.02
#17
Originally Posted by shiftless89
The Milemarker hubs are a good quality, even though they are not Toyota. I have them and have no problems at all. Make sure you get the spindle nut kit or grind down the lip on the factory lock nut or you will brake the hub flange when you tighten it down (ie: experience
).......
).......
#18
Originally Posted by Funofchoice
. Sounds like the BJ spacers are the way to go. How much are they and does anyone have a link? Thx again 

#20
The 90 needs bigger sway bars for street use.. just sold my 90 and have a set of urethane bushings for the rear, whole set, new.. never installed them... tried to sell and no takers.. they are yours for shipping $$... also have a K&N also you pa the shipping and it's yours.. 'll send you a PM.



