its the distance from the heel(not lumpy part) of the cam lobe to the valve shim, i think(dont quote me on this) for an intake it should be around .015" and for an exhaust around .020" i am saying this because from your pictures of the heads you put up it looks as though the #1 cylinders cam lobes look like they are contacting all the way around, which would mean 0 lash, which would cause 0 compression.

 

Your cam caps are fine, they are installed just as they should be. The arrows face forward on the passenger side, rearward on the drivers side.

They use the same casting and machine it differently for the driver's side (distributor), versus the passenger side. If you look at your first photo you can see they are the same basic casting. The cam caps should point towards the same end of the casting, but not both towards the front of the motor.

You will quickly find this out due to one of the caps can be put in only one way, and that arrow will always point "away" from the distributor end of the head.

I know this for a fact from rebuilding my 3.0 and carefully photo documenting all of it, I just looked at the pictures.

As to what you have going on with that passenger side head. Given that there is very little to no oil pooled up in there, that indicates you have an oiling issue, as stated above. The head is not necessarily bad, it could be a block issue.

Tear it all down and go from there.

 

thanks for all the help guys. the engine and trans are coming out today.. more pics to come of the damage

 

ok so i have a little bit of an issue.. no stores around me has a engine hoist for sale.. the only one i could find was a $400 2 ton engine hoist for $100 at a northern tool outlet. It was brought back because at the base was bent where the neck mounts to it...


would it still be safe to use. i mean its not that bent just a little. its a 2 ton lift so i would think there wouldnt be too much stress on it from the old 3vze

 

harbor freight anywhere near you?

 

im in hudson, wi. zip code 54016.. im gonna check harbor freight now.. i dont want to have to order one.

 

the closest one is in st paul. about 25 minutes away which isnt that bad. would it be really that bad to buy the bent one??

i also have a couple forklifts and i could probably use that but it might be kind of sketchy...

 

check the harbor freight web-site.....i think you can get a decent one for as much as you will spend for a bent one.

not seeing what is bent prevents me from saying anything. i would say of it's bent enough to make you think about it several times, how many more times will you think about it when your engine is hanging from it?

 

their cheapest one is 180.. if i get the bent one i will have the lift and stand for around 130.. and it will be about 220 for a new one and stand.. i mean i can always reinforce it or something.. idk i will go take a pic of it tomorrow

 

2 words for you guys.... "busted rod" ha. i got the heads off and everythign looked fine so i pushed down on cylinder 1, where i had no compression and she just pushed right down. i guess i can say YAYYYYYYY!!!!! time for a full rebuild.

 

These engines are heavy. if you will have it out for a while, rent the hoist from a tool rental. how ofter would you really use one anyway?

 

As for the heads, looks like the oil pump is gone or almost gone, there should be more oil in the other head also. Concerning the lack of compression on the cylinder, it could be alot of things, Rings, busted piston (I've seen them with holes on the head of the piston), Blown valve, etc. Crack the head and take a look man

 

if you have a truck salvage place around go down and pick up a 3.4, recondition it, trow it in. more bang for ur buck than a 3.slow rebuild.

 

I have like 4 vehicles now and I already have a high power vehicle.. This is my first rebuild so its more of a learning experiance than anything