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Distributor cap contacts chewed up

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Old 03-20-2017, 07:59 AM   #1
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Distributor cap contacts chewed up

Timing belt is perfect put new cap noticed the contacts on the old one were chewed up idling rough and removed new cap and they are also chewed up are the distributors known to go bad in the 3vze it's a 92 by the way need some advice
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:28 PM   #2
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Distributor caps do go bad over time. Between the rotor and cap there is no actual metal contact, it's all arcing and sparking which over time will erode the contacts. If they are just barely pitted you can sometimes help things out by sanding the contacts back to bright metal. But if the cap is old and really worn then it's better and easier to just replace it and the rotor. They are cheap and easy, just like some girls I know.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:38 PM   #3
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I'm wondering if the actual distributor can go bad and wobble and strike the contacts causing the caps to go bad quicker I have less than 10 miles on the new cap and it looks like this Normal ?
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:40 PM   #4
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It's a bit blurry but it looks okay to me. You can grab the distributor shaft and see if it has play.
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:44 PM   #5
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It moves about a mm or two up and down also it gets very hot after only a few min of the truck running , I bought it a week and a half ago and have replaced alot on it I bought it and the guy blew the head gasket and changed the oil before I looked at the truck and I checked the oil it looked good got it home checked the oil again and it was milky
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Old 03-20-2017, 04:56 PM   #6
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I don't know alot about motors so it's been a headache I replaced the head gaskets, egr valve ,crankshaft sprocket timing belt ,idoler pulleys ,timing tensioner spring, water pump ,plugs & wires , distributor cap and rotor , fuel injectors, and radiator and it still runs like crap but no engine light
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Old 03-20-2017, 06:08 PM   #7
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As to this thread, the wear does look a little excessive but I've never actually pulled off a cap that I had just replaced to look at it. It looks like all of them that I have replaced after a bunch of miles.

On the project as a whole, I could see that I was missing something when reading it so I checked your other posts and looks like you have several different threads pertaining to the same major issues. It's best, if you have an issue with your engine to keep it all on one thread so folks can look back at all of the information you and everyone else has posted. That way we can know what the original issue was and what has been done so far. We need info like that if we are going to be able to make informed recommendations. Keep that same thread going until your entire project is complete.

That being said, wow! You sure have done a lot of difficult work to not know much about engines. I'll give you major props for being so bold as to take on what you have. To help you more, please explain what "runs like crap" sounds like, feels like, how it accelerates, idles, when / if it dies, smells like etc. Paint us a picture here. Start out like, "when I first start it it idles high, or cranks forever before it hits, or won't stay running without giving it some gas." You know what I'm getting at.

Also go back to all of your threads and tell the members which thread to follow from this point forward so we can all be on the same page with you. We'll get you through it.
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Old 03-25-2017, 10:20 PM   #8
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Thanks for the reply I'll keep it in mind to try and explain better I have to all back together , I got a new distributor and it helped tremendously , got it running like a top for a day and decided to retard the distributor a little bit as it was idolin a tad high it started running very erratically after a very slight adjustment ... Cant figure out why it would make it miss like it is ..... Also when running it ( while it was running ) and noticed very low power after 2500 decided to cut off the muffler 70% better , took it for a short drive to my parents (when I adjusted the distributor and it began missing ) babied it home and went inside let it cool off and came outside turned it over fired right up idols beautifully for a couple mins then starts missing again any idea what could be the cause ?
would the TPS have any effect ? Also have a friend telling me it can be the cats but not sure that would cause it to do that ... I'll be changing the fuel filter tomorrow as I believe it might be plugged causing an inconsistent fuel supply ? Thoughts ?
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Old 03-26-2017, 06:33 AM   #9
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Why not set the distributor back to where it was when it ran good? Spark timing isn't used to adjust idle, pretty sure on the v6 there's some sort of idle adjuster (air screw?). I know the 22r/re engines a little better. A timing light and the proper procedure is the best way to adjust the ignition timing.

My cousin had a 3.0L 4runner that he got from a guy that liked to retard timing, thing ran like crap, no power, sound like it labored so hard to get moving. Adjusted it from a little faster than half way point, to max advancement, and it seemed just right. Sounds like the last owner put in the distributor in 1 tooth off. He was selling it that day, so didn't get to fix it "correctly", but the guy was happy with how it ran. Factory it should be right about mid way of the adjustable slot. From my reading these engines run a little better with extra advancement, but heat and burnt valves/head gaskets can be a problem.

Cold vs warm running would likely be the difference of open loop (higher idle, richer fuel mixture, no feed back checked from O2 etc), and closed loop (all sensors are used to adjust fuel, idle etc). Talking about idle, what was the RPM for "too high" idle once warmed up?

For the "exhaust mod", sounds like you might be used to domestic trucks, these Toyota like a proper exhaust systems. Even my cousin noticed the difference of poorer performance on his v8 Tundra when he paid to have straight pipes put on (Y from the cat). If he had headers and some intake mods, it might have been ok.
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Old 03-26-2017, 06:55 AM   #10
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1200 RPM was the idol speed I advanced the timing with a light to 12 BTDC went to move it back to 10 btdc started running erratically drove it home let it sit till cold fires up no problem sounds good for a min then starts missing
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Old 03-26-2017, 01:36 PM   #11
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I see. I don't remember which pins it is, but there is the spark advancement from the ecu that should be disabled during the timing process I think. That could also be used to see if warmed up if it would stop missing. I suspect it's more something electronic though like the pickup coil in the distributor, but you said you replaced that already (how was the contacts and plugs?).

Did you also change the plugs and plug wires when you did the cap and rotor? Personally I'd only run NGK or Denso plugs and wires.

Since you have a pretty high idle (or had), I wonder if something is going on with your IAC. Pretty sure the 3.0L is pretty picky with the IAC working well, the 3.4L (newer version of it) sure is.

The last thing that comes to mind would be injectors since they also have a coil inside and could act up when heated up. They are kind of a pain to get to on the 3.0L though so figured it would be one of the last things to check. From memory the OHM resistance of them should be around 12-14ohms. Not sure how you could get the engine to act up and do the test right away to see if it's the injector. Some really expensive diag tools (like $3-5k) could do that, but I don't think they are common place yet in shops. Worst case you could test the ohms at the ecu and ignitor plugs with a engine wire diagram, but the ohms would be off a bit due to the length of wire.

I've read the TPS can really effect things too, but don't have personal experience with them yet. All the 3.0L engines I have all run well, even the 512k mile one, even though it's a bit low on compression/power.
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Old 03-26-2017, 03:55 PM   #12
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I'll have to go back to the book I might have missed that part while timing it , it does have new injectors and new ngk plugs and wires, new cap ,rotor , and distributor , I just repaired the head gaskets and everything from there up is pretty much new
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Old 03-26-2017, 07:51 PM   #13
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I peeked at the EWD for a 92 pickup and it appears the cold start injector is controlled by a "time switch". I wonder if the switch/relay is stuck and dumping extra fuel after it's warmed up.

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Old 03-26-2017, 08:05 PM   #14
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Sweet I was just telling my friend I thought it might have something to do with the cold start injector I'll check it out after I get home from work tomorrow and let you know
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:25 PM   #15
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Yea very interested in the results. I sold a local guy some parts and his 4runner is similar. Hard to start warm and terrible mpg (like 13mpg at best) on a completely redone engine with new heads etc.

According to the wire diagram, the circuit should only have power while cranking, but it does run to the starter relay, and COR (fuel pump relay), so maybe somehow power is jumping into the circuit at one of them points. Could just be a stuck open cold start injector or something like that too. Not sure if there's a gasket or o-ring for it, but might be a good test to pull it out and leave it hooked up to the fuel line and turn the key on. If it's stuck open the fuel pressure up should be enough for you to see it leak. It doesn't take much to knock down mpg a lot.

High idle is also often associated with a vacuum leaks and this era of engine is plastered with them.
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:31 PM   #16
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Tell me about it I fixed five so far and there is another I can't seem to find,, out of the 100 freaking vaccum lines they have on this damn thing haha I'll be sure the keep the thread updated
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:45 PM   #17
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Generally people say to use a flamable fluid spray to test for vacuum leaks, but since there's so many, and you'd be spraying all day, maybe a water bottle would work better with the reverse logic of it would lower the idle. Of course be careful around the plug wires, they could give ya a zap if you where grounded to the truck (aka don't touch the truck during the test). Besides cracked/broken lines, I think the two going down for ADD are common to pop off. Does the idle change if you switch from 2wd to 4x4?
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:58 PM   #18
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Haven't tried changing it from 2 to 4 wheel drive yet but I did turn the AC on and that makes it start idling bad faster than letting it idle untill it warms up didn't really tinker with it too much today as I haven't been feeling to well the last couple days and needed a day to relax
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Old 03-26-2017, 09:59 PM   #19
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I appreciate all the feed back guys !! Yotatech is full of helpful people and information and I'm glad I joined !!!!
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Old 03-26-2017, 10:12 PM   #20
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The AC has a idle kick up valve (I'm pretty sure atleast), power steering does too. Fancy stuff for a truck from that era .

Yea, I've seen a lot of helpful people here. I'm selling parts on and off on here, so figured I should pay my dues by spending time helping people which basically promotes the site and encourages more people to sign up etc. Everything is always a big cycle. Besides that, I don't mind helping people, I have a fair amount of spare time and an ok understanding of most of these trucks, still learning a lot myself though.
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