If you can source all those parts in a junkyard, it "can" be a little cheaper. I never would have bought my Allpro kit if I would have known that FROR was coming out with theirs.

 

I have the T-case brake. Currently been disabled for atleast a year after the cable broke.

Only time a d-line brake becomes useless is when a wheel loses all traction. This same thing WILL happen with an auto-locker. Not a spool, welded or E or ARB locker (engaged).

Auto lockers will dis-engage under no load (throttle)

anyway, disc brakes kick azz and best money i ever spent =)

 

I'm strongly considerring the FROR full floater 'chunk' option right now as I basically my entire rear braking setup needs replacing and I've also got leaking seals on my rear axle to boot. Money-wise though, yeah, it's pretty damn pricey but not ridiculously more than I'd be spending on a new drum setup.

 

I'm going to go with the trailgear kit. Only $350. I doubt I'll even run the summit proportioning valve since the truck is becoming more trails than street (especially after I find 39.5's). I'm just going to run the stock LP adjusted down all the way. Ebrake? I've gone 4 years without a working ebrake.

 

Here's an option for a free 4 wheel PARKING brake. I've been running this setup for a few months now and I love it.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showt...ght=free+brake

 

Back to the OP:
Could you possibly have the LP on the front brakes and all the pressure is going out to the back?

PS: I might've skipped a relavent post cuz I was skipping some bull and itching in the middle.

 

A helpful writeup.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/reviews/fullfloater/

 

Theres no LP of any kind on the front brakes, thats called your foot. YOU control the front pressure by how much you press on the brake pedal.

Most of your braking is done with the front brakes.

It's the rear you have to make less efficient for control and safety reasons. If the rear locks up before the front you can kizz your azz goodbye.

 

I'm just not a fan of line locks or this method. While the system is obviously designed to withstand the pressures involved with the hydraulics things do wear out and this is just one way to make the whole shibang less reliable. Flex lines, especially stock do go bad and bulge, keeping a constant pressure in them just doesnt seem like a good idea to me. You might apply pressure to the system for maybe a half hour (if uadded up all the times you press on the brake and the duration each time) vs leaving the system fully pressurized 7/8 of an average day while the vehicle is parked through all kinds of temp changes...

Just doesn't sound like a good idea to me.

I think if Toyota had thought using a very simple manual line lock over a cumbersome cable actuated manual non hydrualic ebrake (like every other car mfg as well) was a good idea they'd done it.

 

This isn't something you would use to keep the truck parked overnight or throughout the day - that's what low range and first gear are for.

To each their own - this works perfect for me and didn't cost a dime. The other options for an e-brake are the calipers with the built in e-brake which are expensive and suck anyway or of course the transfer-case e-brake which is sweet but not worth it to me.