drew303

Ok so i got the discs on, hell yea they rock but.... they work TO GOOD.

I have summits LP valve adjusted to block as much pressure as it can but the rears still have a long ways to go before the fronts lock up before them.

This is a dangerous situation, thank god its summer and not raining here in the NW..

Ok, ideas? can i double up the manual LP valves, run two? .. is there another model out there that limits MORE pressure (why cant they this summit one limit more pressure, what the heck?)

I read this might be a problem but so many people running their discs exactly like I got mine and don't complain... i dont get it..

I have a 1" Master cylinder, pedal is stiff and plenty of braking power.. but I HAVE to limit the rears more.

**I'll post a small writeup on this conversion to supplement Elvotas writeup. I ran into some snags he didn't that I think people should know about if they want to do this conversion. I'll post this up later tonight or this week, tonight i have to get the driveline brake in.

drew303

OK,

this is a perfect example of extreme fatigue

I installed the LP valve backwards. I think 4hrs of sleep in 48 hrs and working on brakes isnt a good idea.. =) .. but.. this is what school, work and to many projects does to ya!

I'll fix it and report back on how installing it correctly effect the braking =)

drew303

ok, so i switched it but get the same result

friggen a.

I mean it is doing something, barely. hmm.....


this is the proportioning valve i have

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...0&autoview=sku

says it can reduce pressure by 57 percent or 100 psi to 1100 psi... seems like it should be adequate to not lock up the rears before the fronts.. hmm.. i mean its bad, on dry pavement rears lock up with little pedal input and the pedal is solid.. not like theres air in teh front lines.

drew303

pirate is being a slow bastard right now

but from the few threads ive found seems people are just content with the rears locking up because of the oversized calipers. Thats just stupid

I'm going to try and run dual LP valves and see if thats enough to limit pressure to the rear. The rears should NEVER under any circumstance lock before the fronts.. damnit

Elvota

In your post when you started the planning for this swap (https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...nions-119850/), I tried to emphasize that the rear discs are very strong, much stronger than drums even after reducer has been installed.

Quote:
"Basically, you need to reduce the fluid going to the rear wheels so they don't lock up. W/O that Summit valve, you'll be sliding all over the place. Even with my much heavier 4Runner the rear brakes are very responsive. It will be very easy to bring the tail around on your pickup if you do not pay attention to the line pressure and make sure too much power doesn't get distributed to the tail end."

This may sound like an attack, but that's not my intent. If I was in your position, I would...

1. Call Summit. See what the effect of a second reducer might have. I am thinking it would just allow you to reduce the pressure even more which is exactley what you want.

2. Check this thread out: http://home.4x4wire.com/erik/4runner/brakes/. Start looking into the possibility of a different booster or master that moves the amount of fluid you need. He's got a pretty detailed chart with options and combos he has experimented with.

3. Consider whether leaving your LSPV in place might reduce line pressure to the rear brakes. Adjust the LSPV for minimum pressure of course.

Just throwing some ideas out there.

In addition to all this, I found the brakes became less grabby after some use. I am betting dual reducers or perhaps a reducer with even more volume control would be your easiest fix.

It's going to take a little tinkering to get them where you want them to be.

drew303

You da man Elvota =) I can't tell ya how much you've helped in this whole conversion. Your writeup kicks butt =)

Well, after tearing through pirate and not really gettin anywhere I decided to get creative, well not really creative but no one mentioned (like you did above.. but i had already done this before i got your reply hehe).. reinstalled the LSPV out back and lowered it not to minimum but just mounted it stock on the axle and lowered the arm on the adjuster bolt..

Obviously reinstalled the LSPV to front brake line as well

The brakes aren't perfect but damn good! Rear doesnt try to pass me anymore. Be nice to get it out on some gravel tho. I might cut the LSPV arm and rig it as far down as it'll go but right now it's road worthy.

Pedal is as hard as a rock, lol.. not sure if the booster just isnt adequate, not performing right or im in need a dual diaphram. It's bearable for now tho. I can't get all 4 to lock up on pavement, I stop before that happens, so thats actually a good thing.

I'll post some pictures tomorrow night maybe.. Didnt get the parking brake on this evening, spent to much time fidgeting with the brakes.

Elvota

Maybe post what you used for the swap.

Booster, master, calipers, rotors... etc.

Personally, I'd like to see what you did (or are planning to do) for the parking brake.

drew303

I used 1" chevy rotors and early 80's monte carlo calipers, they are different from yours Elvota. These have the bleeder on one end and the fluid intake on the other (not both on one side like your calipers).. i had to do some .. ok a bit of grinding to a few dif parts of the calipers to make everything fit and work... ill post pictures in a dif thread later today or this week.

1" FJ80 master (brand new) .. that summit lp valve.. stuck the stock LSPV on

skys brackets



Parking brake im going to stick on skys transfer case mounted ... I just need to pick up a 30mm nut to get that damn flange off

gtg to work ciao

Jay351

Dont want to thread jack or anything but is there no way to rig up your e-brake to work on the rear calipers?

MudHippy

You mean use the cable? Or what exactly?

The only options I'm aware of are the transfer case disk brake setup, that does take advantage of the orig. e-brake cable I believe, or a line locker.

I found another Toyota pickup/4Runner rear disk brake conversion kit when I was looking for a line locker. It mentions some kits come with a parking brake on there but I don't get what they mean exactly. Check this out from The Streetrod Manufacturing Co., you tell me. Mentions using the LSPV, a little late for that advice, sorry.

http://www.tsmmfg.com/2494.htm

drew303

if you get rear calipers from a cadillac i think it is they have the the parking brake mechanism built in but hose calipers are EXPENSIVE as hell and you still have fuxor with the toyota parking cable to make it work and ontop of that it doesnt work very well, you cant get enough tension with the toyota parking cable so they wont hold very strong.

You're better off paying the $200 for the transfer case moutned driveline brake that holds the tires no matter what. it cost me $300 for calipers and transfer case brake.. thats about what you'd spend on caddy calipers and then add in the 2 bottles of pain killers for that headache you'll have once you figure out how to make the caddy caliper parking brake work =)

drew303

I'll mention this here and in the writeup thread I think ill have time to do tonight

I am 110% happy with the outcome of this conversion, with the stock lspv left in place and lowered the brakes are wonderful, stiff pedle but i actually like it a lot. The truck stops on a dime. There was A LOT of peddle travel with the old brakes, now its 1/4 the travel triple the braking power.

Worth every penny spent, I actually feel safe now LOL

ra33it

Hey Guys,

I've been doing a lot of reading, and I'd really like to get rid of my rear drums (they desperately need service, and I'd rather spend my money/time on new calipers than a painful and time consuming drum rebuild).

My biggest concern is lack of an e-brake, I frequently need one where I park.
I was thinking about pulling the stock e brake handle and putting something like this in its place: http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/...Lock-p-74.html

Has anyone used a hydraulic locker like this before? Seems like this is a good inexpensive option to mount in the stock e brake location (just below ignition switch) but before I start I'd love some feedback. The only thing stopping me from doing this mod is my inexperience concerning transfer case ebrake vs. line locker.

Thanks in advance!

R

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

First off, no need to dredge up a THREE year old thread.

Second, there are kits out there that use calipers that are ebrakes. Do some more reading.

Third, you're gonna have to look up and see if line locks are even LEGAL in WA to use...

ra33it

People bitch if you don't search on most forums big blue.
This is my first time getting my balls busted because I did?
Thanks for the bump big blue, but you weren't much help.

Also, for others, it has been mentioned that calipers with ebrake cable connections are much more expensive than those without, and its a real pain to get them to interface with the existing parking brake in our trucks because they require more force....

I don't know if lockers are legal or illegal in Washington, and I don't really care?

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeell, excuse me.

You'll care when your shotty flex hoses up front burst and your truck goes bye bye.

Do you have a LOCKING DIFFERENTIAL IN YOUR REAR AXLE. If not, then a tcase ebrake isn't for you. I'll let you look that up.

I'm actually pretty helpful, you had a valid question that could have easily been addressed IN A NEW THREAD.

Go to Front Range Offroad, get the full floater kit with supra calipers and have fun. You'll have the strongest axle setup and an ebrake at both rear tires that'll work with existing cabling.

ra33it

See! I knew you had it in you! Everyone on YT is usually super friendly, and super helpful. NASIOC is a pit of vitriol in comparison...

I don't have an elocker, welded spiders, air locker, or anything other type of permanent or intermittent locker on my diff. Mr. Blue. I have an mostly stock 91 4wd DLX pickup.

I'd been reading some postings about caddy calipers on the cheap, swaps from other newer yota trucks, I've seen the trail gear kits that are pretty spendy(and incomplete, no proportioning valve included @ nearly $400) , and I'm trying to figure out what I really want to do. I'll check out the supra kit! Thanks!

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

Here so you don't get a cramp clickin into the world wide web...

http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...f10620b321041b

92 TOY

what's wrong with your e-brake??

my e-brake would not engage because mine became frozen with corrosion (actually the BELL CRANKS) and after a few hours of work i was able to free them up.

BBP is VERY helpful always and many would attest to that. likewise i think he's being helpful on warning you about stuff you DON'T want to do. that technical stuff is beyond me, i can only say what worked for me.

ra33it

My rear drums are shot Toy, along with my ebrake cable. Basically I need to do some maintenance, and i'm thinking an upgrade might be a better choice than repairing the stock items. I need to pick and choose where I spend the dollars, because I only have so many

I think BBP is right on the money, with going full float, and getting a caliper that integrates with the stock e-brake. Of course, its also big money. I think I'm going to start hunting for those supra calipers and the 85 hubs/spindles.