Pull the hubs off another truck, that's all you need. You can reuse the hardware from your ADD flange (which is whats on there now in place of a hub). You will initially be perplexed with the "cone washers" but search that on YT "search" and you'll find its basically a matter of tapping the edge of the hub body or cone washers- very easy. Warns will work, but aren't as strong. You'll also most likely have to buy them new, whereas Aisins are original equipment on all early trucks/4Runners and easy to get cheap used. They don't wear out, so that is nothing to worry about.

I don't know where you live, but if you ever have to drive on road in 4wd faster than jogging speed, a front locker wouldn't be a great choice because it causes all sorts of steering interference.

 

I drive it about 40 miles a day plus fun time.

Even with the manual hubs the front will cause problems? I would have thought that disconnecting them would solve the problem. Is there a way around that, besides of course buying a selectable?

 

Azca: Hubs disconnect the wheels from the drivetrain, so no.

 

You live in Phoenix, right? You shouldn't ever have to worry about having a front locker since you don't need to drive with the front hubs locked on the streets. You will be perfectly fine with a front locker in Phoenix.

 

Well, yes and no. If he unlocks a hub he will have no issues... but then he really isn't in 4wd either. So, in that respect, you are correct.

As Justin mentions, the need for on road 4wd in AZ is negligable. (at least the desert part of AZ)

To the OP, IMO, don't worry about the front right now. Get a locker in the rear and armor first and then see where you are. The night and day difference in performance when I got my locker in has me still kicking myself for not doing it sooner. BTW, I'd be happy to let you see how the Lockright feels if you're worried about road manners. Also, I'm sure we all assume the routine maintenance is being attended to first. Considering 1.5k in it already, I'll assume yes.

 

Thanks for the offer! That would be nice. I have it torn apart...again... to replace a leaky fuel injector. Of course now I have to replace some hoses that I have to get from the dealer and am worried about the knock sensor wire as some of the wires on that side of the engine are frayed. The money I have spent on this killed the locker for at least the next month.

I am really looking through all info on engine swaps and think I want a 1UZ as it appears the cost will be about the same as a 3.4 and I want to do the trans as the same time so...

 

Twattle

 

I don't know what that means.

To the OP, I thought this was a dead thread. Keep us posted on how things are going.

 

It means endless talk without meaning.

No not dead just an unbelievable amount of life going on such as my son's karate and the tournments he goes to. Got to brag here, he is a national champ in his division. I put BJ spacers on last week along with changing out all the steering components. Found out my driverside axle binds at full droop. I will be dropping the front diff about an inch to see if that relieves that issue.

Also working through a "grinding" issue on the front end. I doubt it is a bearing and occures only at 52 to 62 miles an hour. It is does not matter what RPM the engine is, nor does it matter if it is in 2 or 4 wheel drive. Also continues while in neutral. It is a high frequency grind and I feel it more than I hear it. Also while I was working on the rig last weekend I noticed the front driverside axle moves significantly where it connects to the diff. I think the diff is the problem now.

When, and if, I get this together and resolve the front end problem, I will definately put in the locker in back. The front may have to wait awhile.

I definately will keep you posted and thanks!

 

Ah. Thank you.

Do you have auto hubs? i.e. the front axles turn all the time regardless of 2wd/4wd status? I'd also consider the cv but it sounds like you already replaced that. (I assume thats what you mean by front DS driveshaft in an earlier post)

Edit: And congrats to your son.

 

Yep, auto hubs. I only replaced the cv/axle on the driver side. At the point in connects to the drive shaft it is solid. On the other side however there is play, not sure how much is normal but it does not appear correct. I also get a pretty good clank when I engate it into 4 wheel drive and orignially thought it was a u joint but again they apear pretty solid.

 

So to clarify, it is the side that you replaced that is sloppy? Yes/no?

It is sloppy at the wheel, not the diff? Yes/no?

Sorry to be so dense sometimes, but I don't always get this stuff if I can't see it while we're talking about it. Also the auto hubs are not something I have personal exp with.

But if those two questions are both yes, are you sure you got the adjusting nuts tightened back up properly and the snap ring on the end of the cv axle properly (esp the snap ring)

 

Oh, also if you can get someone (you trust) to engage 4wd while you have your head under there it might give you some direction.

 

It is the old side, perhaps original on the vehicle. I think I am just going to put some new ujoints up front and change out the CV/Axle and see what, if anything that does.

I finally got the engine back together today and installed the master cylinder (had to run to the parts store 3 times, first one was bad, second leaked!) and did the front diff drop to cure binding in the front. Next step is alignment this week with the U Joints.

I don't know if I will be able to work on it next week as we are getting ready for a camping trip overlooking Secret Canyon (overlooks Sedona as well) with some friends that have never camped, this should be good! She is deathly afraid a Mt lion or Bear is going to eat her or her children. I am making a mountain lion screaming CD so I can play it in the middle of the night!

 

Oh yes, got the snap ring on but had to monkey with it a bit. No problem on the the adjusting nut either, once I got the axle out putting it back together again was a sinch!

 

My toyota has open diffs and a 2 inch lift, and my 99 Dodge Dakota with a body lift 33s and a LSD can go way further than my yota, as long as the trail doesn't get narrow
Even a LSD makes a huge differene IMO

 

this place is legit 2 miles from my house. sweet.

 

Ah, got it. Yeah, swap that other one out and you should be set. If by some chance the old one is any good at all you can just keep it for a trail spare.